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Down Ampney Layout Build & Workshop Thread (For All Things 7mm FS & 0-16.5)


CME and Bottlewasher
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 My goods shed for Cwm Bach was built from Metalsmith's wriggly tin. I've got some in stock, but sadly not enough for a loco shed.

Lovely work Chris - thanks for Posting.

 

Let's hope someone buys Metalsmith and starts producing wiggly tin again - it's nice stuff.

 

Down Ampney's Goodshed will be a similar size (too small in the long run for Down Ampney's 'needs') hence the need for a Provender store and the Grain Store. Hope to model it on Uffculme - a smaller version of Highworth's (or maybe of a size inbetween the two).

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

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I posted a full suite of photos on my Cwm Bach a few months ago. It's based on the wriggly tin shed at Glyncorrwg and there's a great colour photo on page 83 of Michael Welch's superb new album "Steam in the Welsh Landscape" published by Capital Transport. The shed is flanked by a couple of interesting small buildings that may find their way onto Cwm Bach.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

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I posted a full suite of photos on my Cwm Bach a few months ago. It's based on the wriggly tin shed at Glyncorrwg and there's a great colour photo on page 83 of Michael Welch's superb new album "Steam in the Welsh Landscape" published by Capital Transport. The shed is flanked by a couple of interesting small buildings that may find their way onto Cwm Bach.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

I am following your Thread, yet dont seem to always get Alerts - I will try to reset the Alerts and see how that pans out.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

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A little update.

 

I am pleased to report that after looking at even more/numerous real slate roofs and photos of such, that my weathering, being less uniform, seems about right - yippee!

 

The mistake that I had made - in my head - was that I have been looking at some superb modelling (roofs) from a superb, well known modeller and had gotten it into my head that his version/colour/tone/hue of a slate rood was correct and typical of the prototype, err, well it isnt. I am not saying my work (which is after all painting/weathering a moulding) is better, yet most of the slate roofs I have looked at have the patterning that I have tried to portray.

 

I may add stains etc later and try to represent yellow Lichen (not sure how at this time LOL!).

 

Kindest to all,

 

CME

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Hi All,

 

Another quick update.

 

I am ready to start production of the doors - not a lot of time for modelling of late as certain 'chores' have had to be attended to.

 

I have given the ES an overall coat of Lifecolor 'Tire Black' (sic) which is a grey/green colour and very matt. I know that some see Lifecolor (sic) paints as a luxury, expensive even, but I believe that they are very consistent, offer a range of colours which are ideal for/as 'basecoats' and basic weathering and are almost thin enough to airbrush from the pot, whilst being good for brush painting if such are carefully layered up. In terms of VFM they are superb as one doesnt waste several different colours - through mixing and wiping half of the paint on a bit of kitchen roll or other - they also offer, as mentioned, consistent colours so when painting a large area (as with 7mm models) getting the 'mix' right isnt an issue (unless of course one wants some variation which is also possible with Lifecolor paints and any other acrylic).

 

I am also a fan of Games-workshop paints and I have a basic range of Humbrol acrylics which are ideal for base colours and weathering too.

 

I very rarely use my extensive collection of enamels these days (some over 40 years old) - unless such are required - due in the main, after of years of working with fumes and the like (before I became 'white-colour') seem to have taken their toll. When weathering with 'washes' enamels also end up stinking the house out and the domestic authorities seem to object to that, so whilst a little different in their application and usage acrylics are the order of the day. I have also noted that my old enamels, if taken care of, last for years, within the past 2-3 I have seen new enamels 'go off' very quickly in the tin, after just one or two uses, so obviously the formula has changed as with most things these days - for the better?! :no:

 

Photos to follow soon.

 

A few folk have asked me if I could detail how I weather my rolling stock and, along with another Thread on some of my SM32 work, I hope to set up a Workshop Thread for this purpose. I am flattered by their kind words and requests, and yet, as far as I can see, there is very little magik involved in my weathering. I have been weathering models and my toy trains for 40 years now, initially copying the techniques used by military modellers (back in the day no one ever wanted to get their toy trains dirty except me?!). Nowadays weathering stock is much more mainstream. I usually work from photos of the prototype whilst allowing for creativity and happy accidents (and sometimes c@ck-ups). I have been lucky enough to have had some of my weathering work published over the years and I am currently trialling a few new products (which maybe reviewed for publication). Before starting a new Thread I will finish the BT and ES though.

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Hi All,

 

IVY

I have had one or two chaps ask me about how I make the Ivy on my layouts/dioramas, as I mentioned before, to Chris et al, the easiest way is to purchase the 4mm version from International Models, but in the past (military dioramas et al.) I have used fish tank 'plants' with leafs added from the Little-Leaf Company, one can also use materials such as 'Spanish Moss' for the Ivy stems and by and large this makes a much more accurate, and IMHO, neater 'Ivy' BUT, it takes a lot longer to do! There are 'scale issues' in that neither version is strictly '7mm scale' but I have noted that real Ivy comes in all shapes and sizes so, naturally, the human eye is very forgiving of scale in this regard when viewed as a whole on a model.

 

I had hoped to Post photos of the ES's progress by now, yet TBH, when taken - with the ES still having blackish sides and a grey roof, they dont look much different to the previous ones, so I will publish some at the next stage of weathering and then the differences will be more marked (hopefully).

 

ES Roof

Last night I managed to lay down a wash of Humbrol acrylic Grey (64) onto the roof so as to unify the dry-brushed greys and that worked a treat. Prior to that the roof looked a little like the dry-brushing one often finds on ready-made military models and/or war-game models, which are painted to be seen from a distance, with lots of false shadow's present - for my purposes I didnt need that effect/want to draw the eye to the roof.

 

ES Outer Walls

I have also started to weather the ends with a mix of Lifecolor 'Worn Black' (UA 734), 'Tire Black' (UA 733) 'Burned Black' (UA 736) and Humbrol 64. I used a dry-brush/wet-brush technique so as to highlight those areas I wanted to highlight as opposed to any of the weaker areas of the model. Initially, with the two light applications of 'Tire Black', any 'flaws' had disappeared, because, in effect, there was an absence of colour - some may have been happy with this finish, but it still looked a little stark. Having said this, in this 'colour scheme,' with some rectification work, Rod is right, the model is really starting to come together and should look good on the layout.

 

Sanding the edges of the planks for the doors is also now on the 'to do' list.

 

Thanks for looking and your patience with the photos or lack of them LOL!

 

Kindest,

 

CME

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Hello CME, thanks for the advice now and the planned future weathering workshop it's all useful know-how-to-do or know-where-to-go stuff.

 

Thanks.

 

PS. I've got much other things to do at the moment too mainly as persuaded by the "station master goddess" who threatens to do dreadful things to my wedding tackle if they do not get completed. 

Today has seen me add security floodlights to the side and back of the house, I think she wants to observe the fox that keeps visiting us.

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Hello CME, thanks for the advice now and the planned future weathering workshop it's all useful know-how-to-do or know-where-to-go stuff.

 

Thanks.

 

PS. I've got much other things to do at the moment too mainly as persuaded by the "station master goddess" who threatens to do dreadful things to my wedding tackle if they do not get completed. 

Today has seen me add security floodlights to the side and back of the house, I think she wants to observe the fox that keeps visiting us.

Hi Barnaby,

 

You are most welcome.

 

I empathise with your PS, I have one of those too, even when they say that they're not high-maintenance, they usually are (in one way or another). I hope that those flood-lights have low energy bulbs because you wont have any 'leccy' left for your model-railway if they arnt!? Say whaaaat!?? LOL!!

 

We have a - still healthy, yet many urban foxes arnt - fox who sits on my back door-step and looks up at me - t'other side of the door - as I 'chat' to him, he seems full of fun and games!

 

Thanks too, for the 'Like's Ross ;-)

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Consider yourself fortunate. We had deer, raccoons, rabbits, even bears. These have been evicted by over development and they have all left for greener pastures. Can't say I blame them!

 

Brian.

Hi Brian,

 

Interesting Post - thanks!

 

On my other PC I have a photo of a fox in the garden, he sits on the rly. from time to time!

 

I have watched lots of docus on wild-life and I love animals. The thing here with the Foxes is that they have had similar issues yet end up being in towns and cities and eating pizza and fish and chip left overs this hasnt helped their health any. They also often suffer from a severe form of manage. I lived in the countryside and all the foxes were healthy there, now I live in a town they dont seem to be. I am a fan of Homoeopathy and evidently, The National Fox Welfare Society, is using such to treat foxes that come to people's homes for food - time will tell if this approach helps as often Homoeopathic remedies will be antidoted by foodstuffs.

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

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Hi All,

 

An update of various - current - modelling on my workbench - with photos this time!

 

The Engine Shed:

With photos demoing the weathering as I mentioned in my previous Post (Post #107 ), it is hard to see the difference in the various layers, of weathering (in the photos) sorry, and I need to add some more browns (in certain lights creosoted wood looks anything between, grey/brown, dark/brown and black/brown) and then further weathering. I suppose that one or two stages of weathering could have been left out, but as I have never weathered a 'creosoted timber' building before it is a bit of a learning curve. The ends have the next stage of weathering applied and a subtle, softly, softly approach has been adopted, so as to avoid mistakes.

 

Brake Tender Bogies:

I have added a certain amount of detailing so as to get the bogies to look a little more like the ex-LMS 9' 0" Riveted type, using nothing but Plastistruct and NS wire etc., the bogies are nice kit with free-running wheel-sets. As mentioned in previous Posts I have parred off various pre-moulded details and I have yet to modify the springs/bolsters, which will be done with a level of scratch-building and using some of the kit parts. The T/L couplings (thanks go to Howard for helping me source them) have had a small piece of wire added to them so as to have them work with magnets. I will add a piece of wire to the dropper so that 'auto-uncoupling' can take place in hard to get at areas of the layout. Also here is a quick demo of my hand-operated un-coupler, a chopstick with a rare earth magnet on it, this was a quick experiment so the chopstick is a little 'rustic'.

 

Lima Cl33 Conversion:

I have been fettling this body - and others - on and off over a number of years, this particular body came from a buddy of mine Ross as he had a spare box of Lima parts (Ross is a skilled modeller and converter of LIMA and Tri-Ang), I have fettled the body by re-shaping the Air-Horn covers, filling in the mounting holes under the doors, adding larger Roof Vents, removing moulded roof handles and replacing with profiled wire versions etc. etc. Ross, as with my own work on other Lima 33's, had removed the moulded side Radiator Grills and Roof Fan Grill. I have yet to re-profile the lower cab-front and start adding the new grills etc etc. This model will hopefully run on a scratch-built chassis - under R/C.

 

Models on the Workbench:

Current WIP - together in one photo.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

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Good looking engine shed but a lot I've seen of this size look as thought they didn't survive the blitz!

 

Brian.

Hi Brian,

 

Thanks.

 

Fairford's survived - not sure about the likes of Abingdon and Minehead et al. - well into the 1960's and with a brick base and the ability to replace the occasional plank or two, this type of Engine Shed, with applications of old oil and creosote could be made to last indefinitely. Of course with tight budgets and the prospect of line closure many ended up rotten to the core, with missing planks and all sorts of added support.

 

Its 'history' as far as Down Ampney is concerned is here;-

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77273-down-ampney/

 

Real History:

The blitz only got as far as Down Ampney - or to be more precise nearer to Latton and Cerney Wick - on one or two occasions. Luftwaffe bombers and those of the RAF could be seen passing backwards and forwards across the area, often, 'blackening out the sky', however, Lord Haw Haw stated, in his broadcasts, that the Creamery at Latton would be targeted by the Luftwaffe. As far as I can tell, from speaking with my Father and other family members, only a few bombs ever fell - wide of the mark - in terms of such air-raids, with one making a small-medium sized crater in the fields at nearby Cerney Wick (the area was fields but now flooded out gravel-pit workings and pleasure lakes) another bomb fell near to the 'Round House' (Cerney Wick) and one or two smaller devices fell on South Cerney airfield leaving some smaller craters (this may not have been due to an' official raid' as such, but just, 'off-course', Luftwaffe bombers discharging bombs before returning to their home bases in France). Over all there was no real damage to speak of. Family members, along with other locals, went looking, in and around, the local fields for evidence of the raid(s) the very next day. In fact my Father believes that there could still be one or two bombs buried in and around the area as they never found all of the bombs just small holes and few small-medium sized craters. Lord Haw Haw, was believed, at one time, to be based at nearby Poulton. One fellow, who I believe was called 'Fry', was a conscientious-objector, which was frowned upon at the time (nowadays we would possibly view things differently - The Past is a Different Place: They Do Things Differently There) but as it turns out he wasn't a 'consci' at all, as he was caught using a flash-light signalling to passing Luftwaffe bombers!

 

Circling back, as I mentioned before, the RTP Engine Shed was purchased on special offer, and the opportunity with stone-cast resin, to emulate missing planks etc., is virtually impossible, so there is and has to be, a level of suspended disbelief, hopefully I have played to the model's strengths - and made its weakness a feature -so as to make it look as 'ramshackle' as possible, there is still a fair bit to do though.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

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Hi All,

 

Just another quick update.

 

The Engine Shed's end-walls and sides have been given additional dry-brushing and washes with of mixes of Humbrol Acrylic 64, Lifecolor, UA 734 ('Worn Black'), UA736 ('Burned Black') and UA733 ('Tire Black'), some very subtle effects can be achieved with this Lifecolor products. I used as my guide sheds and barns that had been treated with creosote or creosote substitute. I also was mindful of the fact that although well cared for, in the last few years of it's life the ES would have been less 'cared for', so would be starting to fade here and there - and around the edges. Additional weathering was added using water-colour pencils so as to represent newer, thus recently creosoted planks, and those planks that were showing signs of grey, or grey/brown wood showing through. Normally I would have, with enamels, layered  the paint and then attacked it with scalpels, W&D paper and glass-fibre pens etc, yet as acrylic is effectively a coat of plastic these techniques are not applicable. It's interesting to note how these types of timber building age, with a myriad of tones and colours - akin to 'rust'. I have to say that not having modelled and thus weathered 'creosoted timber' before I found this a real challenge. With all of this weathering, with the exception of the roof slates, I brushed with/along the 'grain' of the 'planks', building colours and textures etc. so as to represent knots and grain. Just a sealer coat to add now - which will have to be carefully brushed on so as to avoid loosing the water-colour weathering (I would normally use 'Dullcote' in a 'rattle  can' but the time of year and weather doesn't permit such). I may put a wash of Gouache (Lamp Black) atop if I am feeling brave enough so as to knock back the 'browns' a little more (I am finding working in winter light/under artificial light a bit of a challenge so I may leave the weathering as it is until the Spring/Summer).

 

If I can capture the current - subtle - weathering effects then I shall Post photos in due course.

 

Next will be the doors (to assemble) and also getting those to match the weathering of the main building - I wanted to get the weathering on the main building to a point that I was happy with it (if ever I am - initially - happy with my modelling/painting), before making the doors.

 

After the ES and Brake Tender, thoughts have turned back to my Cl 03, Cl33, 121/122 and coaching stock.... 

 

ATVB to one and all,

 

CME

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Hi Brian,

 

Thanks.

 

Fairford's survived - not sure about the likes of Abingdon and Minehead et al. - well into the 1960's and with a brick base and the ability to replace the occasional plank or two, they, with applications of old oil and creosote could be made to last indefinitely. Of course with tight budgets and the prospect of line closure many ended up rotten to the core, with missing planks and all sorts of added support.

 

Its 'history' as far as Down Ampney is concerned is here;-

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77273-down-ampney/

 

Real History:

The blitz only got as far as Down Ampney - or to be more precise nearer to Latton and Cerney Wick - on one or two occasions. Luftwaffe bombers and those of the RAF could be seen passing backwards and forwards across the area, often, 'blackening out the sky', however, Lord Haw Haw stated, in his broadcasts, that the Creamery at Latton would be targeted by the Luftwaffe. As far as I can tell, from speaking with my Father and other family members, only a few bombs ever fell - wide of the mark - in terms of such air-raids, with one making a small-medium sized crater in the fields at nearby Cerney Wick (the area was fields but now flooded out gravel-pit workings and pleasure lakes) another bomb fell near to the 'Round House' (Cerney Wick) and one or two smaller devices fell on South Cerney airfield leaving some smaller craters (this may not have been due to an' official raid' as such, but just, 'off-course', Luftwaffe bombers discharging bombs before returning to their home bases in France). Over all there was no real damage to speak of. Family members, along with other locals, went looking, in and around, the local fields for evidence of the raid(s) the very next day. In fact my Father believes that there could still be one or two bombs buried in and around the area as they never found all of the bombs just small holes and few small-medium sized craters. Lord Haw Haw, was believed, at one time, to be based at nearby Poulton. One fellow, who I believe was called 'Fry', was a conscientious-objector, which was frowned upon at the time (nowadays we would possibly view things differently - The Past is a Different Place: They Do Things Differently There) but as it turns out he wasn't a 'consci' at all, as he was caught using a flash-light signalling to passing Luftwaffe bombers!

 

Circling back, as I mentioned before, the RTP Engine Shed was purchased on special offer, and the opportunity with stone-cast resin, to emulate missing planks etc., is virtually impossible, so there is and has to be, a level of suspended disbelief, hopefully I have played to the model's strengths - and made its weakness a feature -so as to make it look as 'ramshackle' as possible, there is still a fair bit to do though.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

 

I  trooped through South Cerney many times when I was in the army on the way to RAF Fairtford and RAF Lyneham and then to Canada, Belize, Gibraltar and elswehere.

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I  trooped through South Cerney many times when I was in the army on the way to RAF Fairtford and RAF Lyneham and then to Canada, Belize, Gibraltar and elswehere.

 

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks for that, that's interesting.

 

Happy memories I hope :)

 

South Cerney is part of the Royal Logistics Corp nowadays, Fairford is basically USAF and Lynham has changed ops dramatically, with 'Brize' being all things to all services now.

 

Even back in my childhood we had many, many disused airfields and over the years many have been redeveloped or given back over the farming, in WWII it must have been hard for pilots to know which airfield was which as they were all so close together!

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

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Have you decided which R/C system you are going to use? 

 

Phill   :)

Hi Phill,

 

Nice to hear from you.

 

Steve Leyland's still looks like my preferred option and has been for the past few years - just havnt had the time to get 'aroundtuit' (an aroundtuit is key component for any model-making project!) :mosking:  :yes:  Steve kindly offered to send me his test loco a year, two or three back, but with the problems with fencing and outdoor baseboards we have, as you know, had some set-backs, but we shall, hopefully be, back up to speed by Spring 2015 (fingers crossed) - then I can test his loco, here, on some track after a long wait.

 

I looked at several other systems and Steve Leyland's looks like the best for my 7mm FS locos (as you guys have proven), I may have to make up my own ala 'Giles' truck and the like if I RC any of my 0-16.5 locos (in effect very small and akin to small '00' locos). I also have some miniature RC components for my 1/35 Pibber (PBR) and a couple of other RC Ships/Boats (2.4 Ghz). Some of the 009 boys are RCing their locos - wow! - so 0-16.5 should be doable too.

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Hi All,

 

A quick update.

 

I am awaiting some more acrylic matt varnish (Vallejo) to arrive, as I didnt want to chance sealing (sealer coat) the Engine Shed with Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Matt Medium, as that can sometimes dry on the streaky side when applied with a brush. I will also need to order some more variants of 'brick' colours in acrylic too.

 

Dad was very complimentary about the Engine Shed's progress thus far, when he visited today, which was really good to hear as his critiques are worth hearing.

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Hi All, :)

 

Not much time for model-making over the past week or so (something called Christmas keeps diverting my attention + other matters relating to health of family and yours truly are also playing their part) and awaiting the matt varnish to arrive so.....

 

As a brief filler here are some photos of the exterior foamcore (Foamalux) tunnel mouths for the garden/garage entry/exits (I have some photos of them painted somewhere and they look much better for a coat of grey primer). The Foamalux can be cut, carved and shaped quite easily. I had dabbled with the idea of cladding the tunnel mouths and viaduct with embossed Plastikard, yet common sense and time-scales prevailed. Also we have designed a door/flap system to keep wayward animals out of the garage.

 

Photo 1: Single Track

 

Photo 2: Double Track

 

Photo 3: Cover (without attachments, studding etc.).

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Kindest, with the season's greetings to all! :good:  :yahoo:

 

CME :)

 

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Hi All :)

 

The Vallejo varnish is here and I hope to return to the Engine Shed soon.

 

In the meantime here are some photos of the garden back in late summer/autumn (forgotten that I took them), showing, even with set backs, how the garden and thus layout has progressed. Compare them to Post # 27 and Post # 33 et al. so as to gauge progress and development etc.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77273-down-ampney/page-2

 

The new (closed vertical-board) fence was proofed by dad, later, in the early autumn and another new Privet hedge planted (low maintenance as light hedging type) in front of it - which has helped to soften the whole area and will allow for nesting birds in years to come. SWMBO has also planted new shrubs so as to replace those that were removed for the railway or those which failed/died over the years. We are aiming for an easy maintenance garden, with all year round 'greenery' and with additional colour being obtained with pots and hanging baskets (which are not my department but I very much like the look of when they have been expertly done by swmbo).

 

Still a way to go, but getting there now, another closed vertical-board fence is to be added along the back in the Spring and a new patio/path will have to be added too, a little at a time though as time, money and health etc. permits. This time around, for the heavy-duty work, we have had to call on the services of contractors, there was a time when the family and I would do much of this work ourselves.

 

Kind regards and the season's greetings to all :)

 

CME :)  :)

 

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Hi All,

 

I have still been trying to get a coat of varnish on the Engine Shed but car MOT's and the minor issue of everything that Christmas entails seems to be getting in the way - bah humbug! :angel:  :mosking:

 

So here is a photo or two relating to my Class 33 detailing work to date (mixture of Heljan, Lima and MMP parts).

 

The season's greetings to one and all, thanks so much for viewing the Thread, Posting with hints, tips and advice etc. this year, it is all greatly appreciated. :)

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

Photograph of model parts is the copyright of the author/photographer 2012-2014, additional photograph of the prototype is of unknown origin.

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Hi All, :)

 

I hope everyone has had some nice railway related presents.

 

Railway wise, I have had a couple of nice Fleischmann 0-16.5 NG coaches for the NG element of the line. These will compliment an existing coach and I hope to fettle them slightly so as to look a little like W&L Zillertalbahn/MAV - or a Hybrid at least - coaching stock ;)  :imsohappy:

 

http://www.welshpoolnarrowgauge.org.uk/The_Passenger_Coaches.html

 

I have also been, in between visitors and visits etc. starting to measure up the new (replacement) chassis for the CL33, I have also been working out a few bits and bobs for this particular loco build. It is true to say that the Lima Cl33 wont be to scale, yet with some detailing and fettling I think that a couple of nice models could be had.

 

Happy New Year to all in advance. :)  :)

 

Kindest,

 

CME :)

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Hi All,

 

A HAPPY, HEALTHY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL! :)

 

Not a lot of time or inclination for model-making as our household has been a bit under par, so we have just chilled out after a stressful Nov & Dec 2014 and yet using my 10 minutes here and 20 mins there modelling philosophy I have gotten a bit done (the workbench the kitchen/diner table has been out of bounds as I was told that Christmas took priority - we have some strange old rules in this house :derisive: ).

 

Engine Shed:-

I have weathered the roof of the ES again, with ever lighter tones, I have also, after some research, added, using Games Workshop paints - mixed to my requirements - the 'terracotta ridge-tiles. It is true to say that this highlights some the 'wavy-davyiness' of the roof and roof line, but I think that, to my eye the model looks better for it and as I cant model the ES in a ramshackle way as I would like if it were scratch-built, any imperfections (that look realistic as opposed to a poor factory finish) have added to the character of the model and I have incorporated and embraced them! :)  So with the ES it's now getting there, next is more roof weathering and then door assembly (as far as I can ascertain the ridged roof vents never had any lead-flashing around them, so I have left such detail off, not sure why they dont, yet a range of photos indicates that they didnt so....But if anyone can say otherwise then I am willing to conceded this point :)). I shall weather the roof further with streaks and 'moss' et al., I need to mix up something resembling yellow lichen, although when observing certain slate roofs, they seemed/seem, depending on location, to stay quite clean - with, some lightening, in tone, of the slate, sometimes, with only, bleaching and/or streaking in places around the Lead flashing.

 

Brake-Tender:-

I have also prepared all the brake parts for the Brake Tender - not sure if I will/can fit them all as space is tight.

 

Lima Class 33:-

I have - I think :)  - carved the last of the detail off of the Lima Cl33 body and have now started to add the details back in/on (I shall have to work out if this one will be RC or not - yet it is the ideal candidate). I am hoping to scratch-build the chassis, so that has been planned and plotted out on paper and some materials cut, yet, what the 'final cut' will be like I have yet to see as it's all a bit experimental and is an amalgam of how certain DMU (Bo Bo) chassis kits go together - in the way in which I hope to build it (after all that is what a DMU is anyway - a BoBo). K.I.S.S is my motto though! I have to say - again - that this particular body was purchased from Ross, via Ebay (it is Ross that introduced me to Internet model-railway forums - so you have Ross to blame LOL :yes: ) and as he had carved out the handrails, lamp-irons, grills and roof-fan and added lamp-irons and roof fan grill etc. that I paid a little more than normal for his LIma parts (although I have to say it was still a bargain price), as I thought that the work carried our had been done to such a high standard - so in effect paying for some of Ross' time and getting a lesson in how others prepare the bodywork. As a point of note I shall use the HJ roof-fan-grill as it is very nicely moulded/fine detail for plastic and has the prototypical 'peak' to it, which cant be replicated in brass/NS, so sadly I removed the brass one Ross had fitted (I did the same with my previous model too). I had already started work on another Cl33 (I hope to have one, two or three - if I can hack modifying so many) and it has come to light that, Ross's work/approach and mine wasnt all that different (likewise with Richard Dockerill's work/approach too). I have seen one or two Lima Cl33's at exhibitions with superb RC installations (but with little work done in terms of super-detailing) etc. and I have seen one or two that have been nicely super-detailed. I hope that my versions (I am taking a slightly different tack) will be as good as  Ross', Richard 'Dickie' Dockerill's and Phill Dyson's - but, as I started my 33's about 5/6 years ago :help:  my own ideas and touches will be there from the outset, yet on the shoulders of giants I have learnt a lot from these other fellows :) . This work is very akin to the type of modelling we all used to have to do in 'OO' - yet I feel that despite some of the sizing issues the moulding for the 7mm Lima body is pretty good, especially with some filing, fettling and added detailing. All madness according to some of course as it has been said to me, why not use the Heljan 33 as a basis? TBF the HJ33 is a nice model, yet it still isnt right in certain areas and hacking that about - 'ruining' a nice paint job - on a costly model seems daft to my mind, but each to their own and in reality, I make no value judgements as it is a hobby and should be enjoyable to all, whatever the reason/their reasons for modelling (I also had several LIma Cl33's anyway and one was free), also, until recently the HJ gearbox issue still weighed heavy on my mind - yet that is all resolved now so I am reliably informed, so time will tell. I like the look of the JLTRT Cl33 too, yet some have said there are issues with the cab, from my pov I didnt want to have to build a full-kit as I had the Lima's here and they should be a quicker build (yeah right!) - ultimately perhaps a JLRT Cl33 may be the way to go one day.....also these locos (HJ and JLTRT - I had been waiting for the MMP 33 too....) only appeared on the market after I had purchased most of the bits for my projects, but that is the nature of super-detailing and kit-bashing :) The parts to date are therefore; Lima, MMP, Heljan and scratch-built.

 

Photos to follow soon :) ...

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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