worzel Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 I posted on here some time ago about pin problems with peco pl13 micro switches and got several really helpful replies thanks very much to all anyway I've run into another problem and could do with some advice so here goes i am using peco 75 electrofrog points with wire in tube an a mse lever frame and I am glueing the pl13 microswitches on the underside of the points to change the polarity of the frog all has gone well with a bit of trial and error with the first 22 points but I am stuck with the only 3 way point on the layout I can't get the switches lined up to changeover I've replaced both pl13s twice and even resorted to fitting pl10 point motors to try to line them up accuractly even though they wont be powered still no luck the base of the point is now somewhat damaged so i don't want to mess about with it any further could someone reccomend a microswitch to fit on the end of the tie bar thanks jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpman46 Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Try these: http://cpc.farnell.com/camdenboss/csmu0101/microswitch-v4-ultra-mini-lever/dp/SW03190?Ntt=SW03190 . Have used these on various layouts with no problems what so ever. Similar available from Rapid Online http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Microminiature-Lever-Switch-78-0735 Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Proper microswitches, not the rubbish incorporated into point and motor designs! Take a look on ebay, plenty of bargains to be had on there. I build my Seep point motors on to a sub-base, with its own tiebar which operates one of these microswitches fitted to the sub-base at one end. The other end of the tiebar is fitted with a brass wire, to act as the point actuator. Much easier to locate that into position as a unit underneath the baseboard. The base is built of plastikard; takes about 15-20 mins to assemble one from scratch. I keep promising to post pics up but haven't had time yet. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted November 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2013 The throw of the blades on the 3-way turnout is less than that on the simple turnouts. Even when using a PL-10 point motor, it's vital to get the motor (with PL-13 attached) properly centralized. Otherwise you can have a dead frog in one direction if the mounting is only slightly offset. If you're fixing the PL13 underneath the tie-bar, then I would suspect it's not moving the PL-13 right over - hence your problem. The pin needs to be hard to the side of the slot on both directions for proper electrical contact to be made. I gave up with PL-10s and now use Tortoises instead, which give no problem at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
worzel Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Try these: http://cpc.farnell.com/camdenboss/csmu0101/microswitch-v4-ultra-mini-lever/dp/SW03190?Ntt=SW03190 . Have used these on various layouts with no problems what so ever. Similar available from Rapid Online http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Microminiature-Lever-Switch-78-0735 Mike mike thanks a lot went to maplin got similar switch for £2.95 worked a treat no fiddling about I'm going to use them for for all the 23 other electrofrog points I've I've yet to install its mucg easier than the pl 13s for the 10 I've already done thanks again jim ps don't laugh too much but I took ages figuring out that you place them on their sides underneath with the pin from the tie bar working against the lever rather than the end of the tiebar depressing the lever I did feel foolish when I figured it out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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