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Removing factory applied weathering? HELP!


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Whoah! Most products that remove factory weathering will also remove Bachmann tampo printing. What are you tryng to strip? Is it a steam or a diesel model? If the former you have to be very careful not to remove lining especially. Even the most recent Bachmann models still have very fragile lining and/or numbers. I damaged the printed name on a D11/2 (released last year) simply by removing my weathering overspray with a thinners-soaked cotton bud - and with only a couple of passes of the bud.

I would even go so far as to say that factory weathering on a Bachmann steam loco cannot be removed - unless Microsol works: I used it to remove my own weathering last night, but didn't dwell too long on lined areas of the model.

On diesels I've used Modelstrip with success, but again don't get it near numbers or printing. Recently though I've had Modelstrip damage Hornby finishes.

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Hey guys. I was wondering if anybody knows a good way of removing (or reducing) factory applied weathering on Hornby wagons. Just befor I result to a full paint strip. Cheers.

Similar question.

 

Dapol weathering often seems to give a rough texture.

 

Removing the weathering on Dapol wagons would the principles apply.

 

Eltel

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  • 1 year later...
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I blogged about a Hornby Class 31 which I un-weathered using T-Cut here.  Care does need to be taken around transfers and printed on details, although the same method can be used to make these appear faded if desired.

Did you use anything to remove the weathering from the glazing?

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Did you use anything to remove the weathering from the glazing?

Can't remember whether it was necessary on the 31 I did, but if it was I'd have used the T-Cut there too.  I've used it to remove paint from Bachmann headcodes to allow me to change the headcode which is a similar principle (i.e. removing paint from clear plastic).  The end of a cocktail stick works well in lieu of the cotton buds to get into the corners etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can't remember whether it was necessary on the 31 I did, but if it was I'd have used the T-Cut there too.  I've used it to remove paint from Bachmann headcodes to allow me to change the headcode which is a similar principle (i.e. removing paint from clear plastic).  The end of a cocktail stick works well in lieu of the cotton buds to get into the corners etc.

I always use blue T-Cut on my diesels, worked on my 31 very well. Not to fussed about numbers or crests as I always fit new ones..

Just thought I'd add a picture..

 

post-4133-0-59358300-1420986309_thumb.jpg

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