centraltrains Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 I'm trying to make this class 168 DCC, but usually we have had DCC ready models so this has had to have soldering... I've done it like this, when I put it on the track, the controller will recognize and program the chip but then it will over heat and not work... Are the wires the right way round? If there is another post for like models could you please redirect me to it... This is for the motor car. Pics: http://bibfun.com/168Photos/IMG_1498.JPG http://bibfun.com/168Photos/IMG_1499.JPG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corax67 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 I would like to see the other side of that pcb because I think you still have live links between the track feed and motor feeds in addition to the decoder feeds which is causing an overheat issue. Better to remove the circuit board & wire directly to wire with heat shrink to prevent shorts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
centraltrains Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 http://bibfun.com/16...os/IMG_1501.JPG The decoder has been taken out now though... The resistors and capacitor was on when it was original put on the tracks though... Could this of blown the chip and need a new chip? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corax67 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 It's possible the decoder has gone phut but that board looks OK to have used as you wired it - can you solder the wires directly and pop the unit onto a programming check to read the address to check. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted November 30, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 30, 2013 ive got a feeling you have soldered to the lighting pcb which needs modifying anyway to allow the lights to work on dcc when i did a 168 i went direct to the motor/pickups avoiding that pcb altogheter on the "motor" side of things but used it for the lights, it is the same set up as the 158 and 165 which was recently discussed on here regards dcc'ing EDIT: found it, check out the linked post to see how martin wynne has wired his 158, if you notice the drive side of the decoder does not go to the pcb only the lighting wires http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77276-class-166-turbo-nse/?p=1194399 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Yes, that post of Martin's was very helpful for wiring the lights in my 158, 159 and 166 models. In every case the motor wiring was as Jim describes, with the wiring going directly to the motor brushes (orange and grey wires) with the red and black wires going straight to the track pickup feeds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
centraltrains Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 I'm just doing the motor though... The Class 168 is 3 cars long and the middle car has no lights, just motors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie inexile Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 I'm just doing the motor though... The Class 168 is 3 cars long and the middle car has no lights, just motors. Did the unit work satisfactorily on DC? I have not fitted a decoder to a Class 168 but I have fitted decoders which require "hard wiring" in several different types of Bachmann, LIMA and Dapol locomotives e.g. 66xx, WD, N Class, 08, Class 20 with a lighting kit and Class 56 with a lighting kit. In such cases I have always removed the PCB where fitted because it is not required, the space made available is then often suitable for locating the decoder. Connect pick-ups and motor brushes as advised by the other contributors and ensure all joints are insulated from each other, I use heat shrinkable tubing as was mentioned earlier. As long as the decoder is powerful enough for your application (and it would be most unusual it was not) and you have the Red and Black going to the pick-ups and the Orange and Grey to the motor it should be OK. Always check on a programming track and write new address before refitting body and trying on full DCC power. I realise that this post may appear to be somewhat basic and condescending but if that is the case then I apologise because it is not my intention to do so. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
centraltrains Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 It ran fine on analogue. Got some more chips today, the likely hood is that the one I had blew from miss wiring (I know where the wires go now) so i'll try again later... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
centraltrains Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Yay! New chip and not doing it via the board and it works! Thank you for suggesting not to use the board! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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