cromptonnut Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 From time to time, I see mention of people still using Linka moulds, and I have fond memories of playing with a (sadly long lost) set about 30 years ago. I occasionally see sets of the rubber moulds coming up on ebay, and I'm tempted sometimes to "have a go" but I'm not sure whether you can still get the plaster for it - or an equivalent modern type. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 19, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2010 There's a Yahoo Group dedicated to Linka - this question comes up quite often. It's worth searching/joining if you're into Linka. See here: http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/linkabuildings/ HTH Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewC Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 One word. Hydrocal. Ok you can also use dental plaster. Just don't use any thing like plaster of paris or polyfilla. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Hydrocal? As in the stuff that Woodland Scenics sell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chameleon Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 We use stuff called jesmonite (I think) It's a two part mix and makes a very strong resin. It handles and moulds just like plaster. You can make much stronger structures with it as it is not nearly as brittle as the plaster. It makes great road surfaces for the Faller car system too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gary White Posted January 19, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2010 Hi ALL I have still got some of the molds i think i got it as a Christmas present all i can remember is trying to cast using the molds then trying to get the molds to release the contents may have to have to have a play with them Yours Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 I certainly recall from a long time ago that getting the bits out of the moulds was an art form in itself, usually caused by my impatience in not waiting long enough for the bits to dry properly, and then ending up with a fingerprint in the middle of the brickwork where I poked it just to see if it was dry. Invariably, it wasn't. Just because the top surface had dried didn't mean the mould side had dried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 19, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2010 I certainly recall from a long time ago that getting the bits out of the moulds was an art form in itself... From memory it's also important to give the moulds a rinse in soapy water prior to pouring the plaster in - this helps as a form of mould release agent IIRC. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Presumably you have to be careful that there aren't any "little bubbles" in the mould, otherwise they'll spoil the casting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I must say I never bothered with anything but Plaster of Paris, but get the mix right, not too stiff, and use spray furniture wax to act as a release agent. Hydrocal and others have quartz etc., added and have good finish, but are quite a lot more costly compared to plain pure plaster. Dental plaster works well, but is very costly. Try Tiranti, on net, for various types of plaster if you want to experiment, but bear in mind good old fashioned plain plaster is very stable and long lasting, just bear in mind the plaster court displays in the V&A Museum, some are over 120 years old. Bubbles do not matter much, just fill afterwards with a stiffer dab of plaster as a filler, takes moments to put right. As with all plaster work the final effect is after assembly , with fettling, scrapping and sanding, filling joints etc and generally working the final model for the best finish, they take paint wonderfully, especially acrylics. Stephen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 19, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2010 If you've seen the 009 layout "Kingston Regis" you'll know just how good Linka can be. Take a look here for photo evidence, as well as tips on using Linka. All the buildings on this layout are made by Jane Jacobs using Linka: http://www.kingstonregis.com/kingston_photos.htm HTH Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 I'm quite surprised it's not more popular than it actually is, given the quality of the results you seem to be able to get out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Ebay have several suppliers of plaster of all grades, from plaster to filled quartz types, and reinforced. Stephen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 The Linka moulds are still available http://www.linkaworld.com/ Unfortunately, the 'Choosing a Plaster' heading on the site isn't linked to a document. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Invicta Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 If you've seen the 009 layout "Kingston Regis" you'll know just how good Linka can be. Take a look here for photo evidence, as well as tips on using Linka. All the buildings on this layout are made by Jane Jacobs using Linka: http://www.kingstonr...ston_photos.htm HTH Brian Their other layout 'Nettlecombe' was at Canterbury last weekend- very impressive. Had a chat with Jane and picked up a lot of useful advice about using Linka. I had a set when I was a teenager, but never achieved much with it- I'm going to have to dig it out of my mum's' loft next time I visit, so I can have another go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted January 21, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 21, 2010 I've always used plaster of paris (in home made moulds) rather than dental plaster. It has the advantage of being easy to work when set, stone courses can be adjusted or continued round corners, walls can be cut and shut. In this photo the cottage and the foreground bridge abutments and pier are home made plaster of paris castings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_S. Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I have just cast my first pieces of Linka (brickwork) using a modelling/sculpting plaster I was given by the local technical college (design department). If it works, I will try to find out what it is called. I have just one kg in a clear plastic bag at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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