Slow acting model filler?

[RobboPetes]

Hello all,

 

Does anyone know if you can buy a model filler that hardens slowly, allowing the modeller time to fill and file the hole without racing against the clock? I am trying to fill some small holes, about half a mil wide on my N gauge vee-tanks. I've cut the ends down but they do not fit flush to the tank-end any more. Some holes need to be filled where I have replaced the original fillers and walkway on top of the wagon.

 

I've used filler in the past that hardens as soon as it leaves the tube, thereby not allowing the modeller time to do much with it. When it hardened it was a pig to file without damaging the plastic body of the vehicle and almost impossible to get it to file smooth and flat.

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

Robert.

[shortliner]

Milliput will do what you want - any of the grades, but superfine white is best

[Arthur]

Another recommendation for Milliput, adding a smear of water to the mixed ball makes it a bit more workable.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

And another benefit of Milliput is that it will polish to a smooth finish with a moistened finger tip or tools; usually means that a flush joint, or fairing in a contour can be performed with no abrasives at all.

[PatB]

I'm not terribly good with Milliput, but MrsB has donated a large jar of artists' impasto modelling compound to the cause, which I've found easy to work, willing to cram into the smallest of gaps and is easy to revitalise with a few drops of water. I can't yet speak for its longevity yet. It's cheap too. The label says it was $10 for a half pound pot.

[KalKat]

I use Squadron filler. The white one, it dries fairly quickly however is very easy to sand back.

 

Emma

[JeffP]

Miliput, polish with a damp fingertip before it goes off, hardly any finishing needed.

[Campaman]

For very small gaps I use Tippex

[Kenton]

 

For very small gaps I use Tippex

Good but dries very quickly due to the solvent - still useful if you don't mind that). Another vote here for Squadron.

[Mike Riley]

I have a tube of Molak Stucco which I bought several years ago.  An Italian product.  When filling small holes or depressions in plastic I "prime" the surface first with solvent adhesive.  It is very slow setting.

 

Mike

[corax67]

Games Workshop liquid greenstuff or the original greenstuff - easily worked, slow to harden, easy to file & sand when hard plus it's not too expensive.

[RobboPetes]

Hello all,

 

Thank you for the advice.

 

I have used the Milliput superfine white and have had some great results with it - this is just what I needed. This is a product I would definitely recommend to anyone with the same or similar problem.

 

As mentioned previously, I used a filler that hardened as soon as it left the tube. I've also used a two-part filler many years ago when re-doing the windows on a Joueff class 40 and had some poor results with it. I used Plastic Padding way back then on recommendation from a friend. The result was that it didn't harden solid enough and was vulnerable to contracting and expanding. Others may have had good experience with it but it is something I definitely would not recommend it for model use.

 

Regards,

 

Rob.

[jonhall]

 

. I used Plastic Padding way back then on recommendation from a friend. The result was that it didn't harden solid enough and was vulnerable to contracting and expanding. Others may have had good experience with it but it is something I definitely would not recommend it for model use.

 

 

I've always used plastic padding and really like it as a model filler, but its now impossible to get in tubes.

 

 

Jon

[Rabs]

I was put off milliput originally because it seemed too crumbly - it was only later I found the tip about using some water with it.  Great results ever since.