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Langley LBSCR Baltic tank


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Hello I bought at a toy fair a Langley models Baltic tank in Southern livery all fine and dandy looking running well BUT ....it's a scale 16 foot tall the boiler top being where the chimney top should be on the drawing in Russell's book, giving the footplate men have a fine view over the roofs of the coaches

The problem is the driving wheels are not tucked up enought in to the tanks , has anyone a clue why or what is wrong as all the models on the web I can find don't seam to have such sticky out wheels

The chassis it the A3 triang thing recommended and the front extension is straight and the rear bends down discounting my first thoughts that they went the wrong way pushing the chassis out, not haveing the building instructions I don't know if some other bit is wrong to cause this or what is wrong , I know a picture or two would help you all but this a not my I pad and it doesn't have the facility to shrink the pictures to post cheers for any help

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This book by Platform 5 publications maybe helpful, I used it when making my Langley Baltic tank. I used Alan Gibson chassis side frames, and scale Markits wheels, and it stands a scale 13 foot 6 inches (54mm).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/British-Baltic-Tanks-Railway-Monographs/dp/1872524435/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392480082&sr=8-1&keywords=british+baltic+tanks+-+fryer

or

http://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&an=fryer&sortby=3&tn=british+baltic+tanks&kn=&isbn=&x=58&y=11

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This book by Platform 5 publications maybe helpful, I used it when making my Langley Baltic tank. I used Alan Gibson chassis side frames, and scale Markits wheels, and it stands a scale 13 foot 6 inches (54mm).http://www.amazon.co.uk/British-Baltic-Tanks-Railway-Monographs/dp/1872524435/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392480082&sr=8-1&keywords=british+baltic+tanks+-+fryerorhttp://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&an=fryer&sortby=3&tn=british+baltic+tanks&kn=&isbn=&x=58&y=11

Thanks but,I have plenty of pictures and drawings of them which is why I know the problem is the chassis not being tucked in enough interesting price difference of £251.78 new or £8.00 for the same book secondhand,

I could buy a new chassis and stuff but if the problem is with the way the body is built it won't help to bring my driver and fireman back down from the heavens

I have thought of under slinging the cylinders from the front outrigger and bending the rear one more to push the chassis up ,but if anyone has built this kit has any clues where the builder went wrong

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A posted photo of the problem might help. Sounds like the body doesn't have enough room inside to fit donor chassis, may need some careful filing of the chassis (sometimes these donors are simply best available and possibly more attention has been paid to the dimensions of the wheels than the chassis motor block) or perhaps the body has not been put together quite right.

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The body should sit down on the chassis. The problem is the valve gear and if it has the original Tri-ang wheels they foul the body and need clearance filling from the body. I suspect the body has been fitted higher to clear the motion.

 

My one nearly finnished

Dscf4466640_zpsc15d228b.jpg

 

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I have one of these kits myself. I bought it cheaply because it was missing the rear cab wall, which should be easy enough to scratchbuild from a bit of plasticard.

 

As it has been so long since I actually bought it, the Hornby Scotsman has undergone several evolutionary changes. I was wondering whether the current RailRoad version chassis would fit. Has anyone attempted this, please?

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Thanks Bigherb it has the triang wheels and I will look in to that thought , at the moment it's the brackets holding things up I think , I can't check if the wheels fowl until I can get the chassis in a big bit, your picture is useful as I can set my motion at the same angle and compare axel heights

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As it has been so long since I actually bought it, the Hornby Scotsman has undergone several evolutionary changes. I was wondering whether the current RailRoad version chassis would fit...

Let me offer a couple of thoughts.

 

Among the changes to the 'Scotsman' chassis is Hornby's move to a fixed rear axle running in the chassis block for the trailing truck wheelset: so no screw on pivotting rear truck that can be easily removed and a bogie mounting substituted, sawing away a chunk of metal from the chassis block and devising your own bogie mounting will be necessary. The mechanism, wheel clearance, and cylinder mounting issues will likely be much as trying to fit the earlier chassis, just with differences in detail occasioned by changes.

 

But, in your shoes if looking for a RTR chassis to power the kit, why not look at everything currently available that might potentially serve? The fitting is likely to be no more complicated, as the kit wasn't designed for any currently made chassis. And since the 4-6-4T is essentially a 4-6-0 with a trailing bogie under a large bunker it may well be that a 4-6-0 type offers a more accurate driven wheelbase. Gresley pacifics with no firebox to go between driven axles have a symmetric 7'3"+7'3" wheelbase. 4-6-0 types are typically assymetric, with a slightly longer distance from centre to rear driver to give more space for the forward end of the ashpan.

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