hayfield Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I have just won this GER loco on Ebay and have no idea what it is ( I do want an OO gauge GER loco in blue) I have had a look on Wicki but the photos are so poor the chassis is 0-6-0 Though may be an 0-6-2 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-BUILT-G-E-R-ALL-METAL-LOCOMOTIVE-BLUE-0-6-0-FOR-REPAIR-OO-GAUGE-/331151916939?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=A2F%252BUeNLhDuOt1kJjpbL3%252BwyHVc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc Looking at what is on offer, is has one of the DS motors and a set of Romfords, so my money is safe and peering through the gloom it looks like a whitemetal kit. Absolute wild guess is a Stephen Poole offering, or is it a Wills N7 0-6-2t Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2014 One of these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Bird Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 It is an N7 (LNER classification) as in the above post, I'm fairly sure it's the Wills Finecast kit which was designed to take a Triang 0-6-0 chassis although yours clearly has a better one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Wills/SE Finecast N7 You lucky beggar! Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 It's an early LNER N7 with a couple of mods to try and backdate it to a GER L77. To do more of a complete retro job you'll need to shift the Westinghouse pump back onto the driver's side tank front, add a cutout to the roof above the doors and remove the infill bunker plates and fit 3-bar coal rails instead. It's also missing a condensing pipe. All LNER builds were LH drive whereas GE ones were RH drive - probably not a consideration in 4mm. However it's missing the rear radial truck with 3' 9" wheels - later LNER ones had a 3' 6" trailing wheels in a pony truck. When you come to fit it, the front coupling rod big end should be square on the GE builds and the rods vermilion. Don't forget the ever-present destination board brackets on the bunker rear and smokebox above the door handle. No.1001 was the only L77 to be painted ultramarine with vermilion lining. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Thats very quick, thank you all very much for both the identification but also the information. For the past day I was trying to find an 0-6-0 which fitted the bill. Also until I started to write up the thread I missed the chassis was a Wills Hornby replacement, whilst I dont have any Wills coupling rods spare I do have a set of mainly trains ones. Now have to wait to see its condition Must do a bit of swatting up on this one Thanks again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 If you want a RTR chassis, my similar tres ancien Wills N7 body now runs on a modified current Bachmann 56xx chassis. Never measured up the body in detail, but it cannot be quite right as the incorrect wheelbase of the 56xx chassis actually looks pretty good in it! A DIY trailing truck has to be arranged to replace the weird 'radial' carrying wheel that Bachmann provide on this chassis, I simply reused the wheelset in a plain slot further back. The pushfit plastic cover with ballast weight screwed on over the motor has to go, and the front screw on ballast weight that represents the under side of the boiler needs to be removed and reprofiled to fill in the N7 boiler underside. The ballast in the side tanks has to be shortened around 15mm at the front to fit inside the smaller N7 side tanks. Some thinning of the body interior at the bottom edge of the tanks is required to allow the chassis inside. A small reduction in height of the plastic at the front of the chassis allows the front platform to sit on top at right height, at which point the side tank ballast then supports the underside of the side tank body casting. It all fits together so neatly and tightly I have not needed to secure body to chassis. What with both body and chassis being fairly heavy it runs really well, giving the centre axle springing a little more free travel helps pick up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieB Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 That's sounds like a good suggestion, 34C. I partly built one of the Wills kits (what I actually wanted was one of the round-topped rebuilds, which would be just as easy to scratchbuild than convert the Wills kit) which was to go on a Hornby 57xx chassis (same as the 3F) with a Romford Bulldog replacing the X04. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 If you want a RTR chassis, my similar tres ancien Wills N7 body now runs on a modified current Bachmann 56xx chassis. Never measured up the body in detail, but it cannot be quite right as the incorrect wheelbase of the 56xx chassis actually looks pretty good in it! A DIY trailing truck has to be arranged to replace the weird 'radial' carrying wheel that Bachmann provide on this chassis, I simply reused the wheelset in a plain slot further back. The pushfit plastic cover with ballast weight screwed on over the motor has to go, and the front screw on ballast weight that represents the under side of the boiler needs to be removed and reprofiled to fill in the N7 boiler underside. The ballast in the side tanks has to be shortened around 15mm at the front to fit inside the smaller N7 side tanks. Some thinning of the body interior at the bottom edge of the tanks is required to allow the chassis inside. A small reduction in height of the plastic at the front of the chassis allows the front platform to sit on top at right height, at which point the side tank ballast then supports the underside of the side tank body casting. It all fits together so neatly and tightly I have not needed to secure body to chassis. What with both body and chassis being fairly heavy it runs really well, giving the centre axle springing a little more free travel helps pick up. Thanks for the suggestions, but the loco has a chassis already, as it has Romford wheels then fitting the coupling rods should be OK.The trailing truck I should have a Perseverance etch, also I think I have a whitemetal truck in the spares box. Failing those I am going to Alley Pally and Comet will be there. failing all those I can get one from Dave at Southeastern Finecast. Thanks for the heads up on RTR chassis though I do have a Stephen Poole N2 body kit, now again I may be able to pick up a Comet chassis at the same time and if they twist my arm I could come away with a 2 stage gear box and flywheel as I have a few motors and plenty of Romford/Markit wheels in my wheel box. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 Loco arrived and it is a N7, missing a couple of bits and dirty, first will be a wash One condensing pipe is missing, is the remaining one bent correctly? Couple of steps missing. Hand rail wire needs re-doing and may be change the split pins for turned rods, smoke box looks to be 2.5 mm thicker than the boiler nicely hand painted and lined A hand built chassis and a modified Branchlines motor mount, so I am forgiven in not recognising it. Its a copy of the Hornby Triang Jinty chassis. Strange motor cradle but works. Motor turns OK, now need to check the wheelbase for coupling rods looks to be 30 mm x 35 mm 7'6" x 8' 9" There is realy a strange gear system, hopefully the photos say it all.I will write to Dave at SEF for a parts list and will see if there are additional bits in the revised loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 I have checked out the wheelbase and the chassis is to the correct wheelbase for a N7, so looks like I will have to use a packet of Gibson universal coupling rods. Went to Alley Pally yesterday and going back today (dont ask I and being a chauffeur) Bulked at Precision Paints prices, for track grime I will make my own from acrylic but no choice about the GER blue. I was hoping Comet would be there as I have a N2 which needs a chassis, so that will have to be ordered as will the replacement parts from SEF. Should the hand rails and knobs be painted or left natural, if the latter brass or steel Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Steel handrails and stanchions. If a bulled up specimen like Stratford's J69 68619 in GER Blue as Stratford's pet kept as Liverpool street pilot is any guide, then it could be polished bright along with the smokebox door mountings. Even regular traffic N7s could be found with the smokebox door ring polished in BR days. The condensor pipes should have neatly radiused bends and run stright and level (visually). Cannot help but feel that in practise they may way well have had a slight downward incline to the tank so that condensate ran away there, rather than back into the valve chest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Bulked at Precision Paints prices, for track grime I will make my own from acrylic but no choice about the GER blue. VW Marine from Halfords over a white primer is an exact match for Precision GE blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Thanks for the info, the hand rails and pipes information and the paint. I just want to touch in the replacement parts, so its a brush job I bought some Precision paint this afternoon, but did not bother Dave at SEF as I will send for a parts price list. Looks like I need some longer handrail knobs as all I have are the short ones Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EHertsGER Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Might I suggest either/or/and the Isinglass drawings/Great Eastern Railway Society drawings (downloadable in 4mm scale for about three quid) to help guide things along...? Best, Marcus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieB Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Only one of the N7s (or L77 as they were classified by the GER) ever carried the blue livery in Great Eastern Railway times. Of the two locomotives first delivered in 1915 (although carrying 1914 on their worksplates), no. 1000 retained the "photographic grey" livery (fully lined and lettered "GER") whilst no. 1001 was adorned in blue. Both had burnished brass chimneys. Only one further batch of ten were delivered prior to the grouping, and were turned out in wartime grey. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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