Jump to content
 

Heljan 7mm Hymek


Blobrick

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

I would like to ask for some advice please?

 

I would like to renumber one of my Heljan 0 gauge Hymeks. Has anyone undertaken renumbering of one of these beasties before?. If so whats the best way of removing the old numbers from the cab side. And can anyone recommend a source for new stainless steel numbers.

 

Any help or advice would be very appreciated

 

 

Bob.C

Link to post
Share on other sites

Shawplan/ Extreme Etchings produced an etch of D letters and numbers for this purpose shortly after Heljan launched their model - a similar item was produced in 4mm. I don't know if these are still available - they do have a website/email and attend a lot of shows such as Nottingham last weekend.

 

To my shame I haven't yet used the product, and so haven't removed the printed numbers, primarily because I don't feel on top of the detail differences in Hymek batches, and hence able to choose an appropriate number. Guidance on this from any subsequent reader would be greatly appreciated.

 

As an add on, I have this morning taken delivery of an etch for the cab steps of a 7mm Hymek. This has come from Pete Harvey designs and looks absolutely stunning - a link to PH Designs can be found in the Suppliers & Site Sponsors part of the forum.

 

John.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used etched letters, which were I think Shawplan ones, on a Big Big conversion. I found that although they do the job well they are a pain to cut out of the fret, file, then successfully line and level before fixing. I can't remember how I finished up getting them on, it was either with a Post It note beneath, marked with the spacing, or putting them onto masking tape and then lifting them off as a set with sellotape, I think it was the former that was finally used.

 

post-18627-0-76093600-1395148482_thumb.jpg

 

If it's just to differentiate between others I cheated with my Heljan when another turned up on the Club layout with the same number, as we run DCC it meant we had similar identities and I didn't want to go through all of the hassle of re-numbering again. A quick dab of silver and green paint with an 000 brush soon sorted out 7039, it takes about 10 minutes and doesn't cost anything if you have the paints.

 

post-18627-0-50705200-1395148485_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi  Rugd1022

 

Many thanks for the advice re the Head Board clips, just shows you how easily you can fall in to a trap! I ll choose a later number for my second beastie!

 

Many thanks for your help

 

Bob.C

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

When I had to renumber a Hymek I removed the numbers with a Q tip with acetone (nail varnish remover) and gently rub the area where the number is. This method also works on the br double arrows on the class 31 but for some reason will not remove all of the printing (especially the black parts) of the lion & wheel logo on the class 47.

 

Regards

 

Vin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

The acetone method removes the semi permenant printing, but vigorous rubbing will eat into the paint. I stop and clean the area as soon as the Qtip has green or blue on it.

 

Vin

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

post-5983-0-84582300-1397424569_thumb.jpgpost-5983-0-27380500-1397424588_thumb.jpg

Here's D7022 now all the detailing is finished. The yellow ends will need sorting as I need to refill the head board clips.

Then it's off for weathering

If your getting the steps from Pete Harvey ask for the Timken covers I had commissioned off him.

Both pictures are copyright to Dave Cooper.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi all

 

I have a HJ Hymek in the Blue small yellow panel livery, when would this livery date from please?

 

Ian

I'd suggest 1966 being when Rail Blue first appeared, maybe someone has a precise date. IIRC Swindon did one or two Hymeks in blue SYP without the white windows, D7004 sticks in my mind as an example, although more had the white to produce what many would feel was the most elegant version. Along with Derby, Swindon took the view that contrast from the SYP gave better warning to trackside workers than a total yellow front, but were eventually over-ruled by HQ, hence the handful of 25's, Peaks, Warships and Westerns in the scheme.

 

John.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

attachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpg

Here's D7022 now all the detailing is finished. The yellow ends will need sorting as I need to refill the head board clips.

Then it's off for weathering

If your getting the steps from Pete Harvey ask for the Timken covers I had commissioned off him.

Both pictures are copyright to Dave Cooper.

 Many thanks for the info, I love the photo of you Hymek, I ve got something to aim for now!!

 

Cheers Bob.C

Link to post
Share on other sites

post-5983-0-74327600-1402600734_thumb.jpg

Here she is along with the western with the yellow end resprayed. She will get the weathering touched in by Roger Manton who did the loco originally for the previous owner.

I would suggest the Pete Harvey steps and Timkin covers as a start and new pipes & couplings make a huge difference. Also Severn mill plates as you get the makers plates as well.

Check which model you are doing as the first 30 I think didn't have head board clips as mine now doesn't.

I found another picture of one with snow ploughs and they do look good.

Ian how about having it resprayed green to fit in with the steam fleet? I've got some great painters I could give you the info for.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...