Catweasel Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I have a Triang Dock Shunter which I wish to re-wheel for Code 75 track. Ultrascale are not an option due to crazy waiting times. Any other options available please? Thank you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thane of Fife Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Gibson do wheels for various Diesels as well as Steam locos. Is the Dock Shunter 03 class? Thane of Fife Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Is the Dock Shunter 03 class? Thane of Fife 'Fraid not, IIRC, it used a powered bogie from one of their Bo-Bo loco's, but I cannot recall which one. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 The power bogie was almost identical to the Triang Victorian Railways B class (shown as R159 Transcontinental double-ended Bo-Bo) and the R257 electric equivalent. The design of the bogie was very similar to that used in the R157 DMU and R156 Southern Electric but with larger wheel diameter. I would like to get better wheels (for Peco code 100) for my SR electric units, just to run them occasionally. A watchmaker friend tried turning down the flanges but they defied most of his efforts, even managing to blunt a lathe with a tungsten-carbide tip! I cannot justify the cost of Ultrascale wheels, good as they are.So, if anyone has suggestions, I would also be very interested. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 It's not the cost of Ultrascale wheels that puts me off, it's the 6 month waiting time. I am going to investigate the possibility of using wheels for something else. The gears would have to removed from the axles of course. Another way is use something like a Bullant power bogie or, perhaps a High Level bogie. These would involve making new bogie sides but that would only improve the look of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallmodelspares Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Another option might be to use old margate Hornby A4 insulated and non insulated wheels. I've seen people use these by drilling them out wider for the Triang type Al1 axles and wheel profile is better than the old sets Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Would these help ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPARE-WHEELS-FOR-TRIANG-SR-CL-4-SUB-EMU-X120-MOTOR-FREEPOST-TO-UK-/151269297717?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item23385a4e35 ....E bay search 'EMU wheels' Emma Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Certainly looks to be a viable option. I've got a set on order.Drop of Loctite and careful setting up, job done. I don't use back to back measurements I should add. I prefer to use back of flange to front of flange. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Hello, I have used an angle grinder whilst the wheels are rotating under power to reduce the flange depths quite successfully in the past. Just a light touch is all that is needed and as long as you remove contact between wheel flange and grinder before stopping the wheels good results are achievable trustytrev.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I have a Triang Dock Shunter which I wish to re-wheel for Code 75 track. Ultrascale are not an option due to crazy waiting times. Any other options available please? Thank you. I understood that Gibson diesel wheels fitted 1/8th in axles. Is that the size the Dock shunter uses? Daver Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I have several Transcontinental Dock shunters and similar power bogies around. The "Dock Shunter" used the transcontinental BoBo Diesel power bogie, I hever saw an X04 powered one but I am sure the X04 bogie with spur gears and layshaft will fit. All these use the big is it 3/32nd Triang axles not 1/8th H/D Wrenn and Ronmford axles. I would use Markits Triang replacement knurled axles with the standard Triang gears or Triang TT single star worms if you want really low speeds and Romford/ Markits Locomotive Driving wheels of the right diameter, (14mm/15/16mm?) (Not coach wheels) ok they are spoked not disc but for a low hassle fix it has to be easiest, especially if you have an early chassis with the brass pick up, The later spring is mnarginal with rim insulated wheels.. If you try to reduce the flanges, you will find the knurled wheels are hard as hell and the flanges on early ones wont even run on code 100 rail, later ones are softer and not knurled but still hard work to turn even if you have a lathe. The A4 solution wont work as the axles are too small and the insulated wheels have traction tyre grooves, and yes I have reprofiled the grooves out on a lathe and no it was not really successful Ironically most Triang locos produced when the dock shunter came out had soft Mazak wheels which are very easy to reprofile, simply by running the loco and placing a file against the flanges. If you find a way of grinding down Knurled wheel flanges to RP 25 profile please tell me as I plan to fit a dock shunter with knurled wheels with one single start worm and one twin start as a rail grinder to keep my Triang Floor layout track nice and shiny and quite fancy doing a second for use on code 75 or 100 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 I had forgotten about the Markits Triang-style axles. They might just provide the answer. David is right about the wheels being very, very hard. My SR EMU ones that did get turned down a bit (crudely!) will run on code 100 track but not through points. As I said before, they blunted a tungsten-carbide lathe tool! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NERBOB Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 I'm presently on with a DCC conversion and have ground off the ribs on the treads on my grinder. The flanges need a little more care but I think it will be achieveable. They now run on Code 100 trackwork and through Peco pointwork. The DCC issue is causing a stir. On the DCC threads there's a post or two (including mine) but no-one has been successful it seems. I wired up a spare socket and have tried 3 decoders but non work. The blanking plug works and it runs well on dc............any ideas?? Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NERBOB Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I'm presently on with a DCC conversion and have ground off the ribs on the treads on my grinder. The flanges need a little more care but I think it will be achieveable. They now run on Code 100 trackwork and through Peco pointwork. The DCC issue is causing a stir. On the DCC threads there's a post or two (including mine) but no-one has been successful it seems. I wired up a spare socket and have tried 3 decoders but non work. The blanking plug works and it runs well on dc............any ideas?? Robert Lost my article on the conversion, but here now are the pictures. Have also posted in DCC Fitting Guides pages. Runs beautifully on Code 100 and through Peco pointwork. Will attempt a video tomorrow. Waiting now for Finecast flush glazing and Cab detailing. Then a start on the bodywork. Really pleased with the results so far. Should make an interesting & useful model. Any Questions, please ask. Cheers, Robert Decoder Socket: Decoder Position: Motor Brushes: Ready for Body: Front showing Headlight & marker lights: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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