0n16.5 gauge garratt

[Narrow Gauge Jordan]

Hi all,

Its been a while since I've done any sort of modelling but now I think its time for a change. Just before woolies closed I was bought a 'midland flyer' set containing the 0-4-0st whilst on holiday in weston-super-mare, I've now discovered the smallbrook studio kits for 0n16.5 gauge that need these chassis, that got me wondering, could I build an 0-4-0+0-4-0 garratt, obviously based on K1 (like most), using two of these with one un-motorised and the back of the chassis cut off?

Is this possible and has anyone come across any similar models? My main questions are;

How would it be articulated?

Does the second chassis need to be un-motorised (double the power or just extra weight?

Is DCC possible? (could the two chassis be connected this way?)

Is any representation of outside frames possible with this chassis without major surgery?

Is there a way to slow down this motor? (Pocket Rocket springs to mind)

Would an NEM pocket need to be fitted to the chassis kr the body?

Probably more questions later (knowing me )

 

Thanks alot

 

 

Jordan

[hayfield]

Jordan

 

I think its a great idea, others will have to answer your questions. A double powered chassis will improve the pulling power

[Narrow Gauge Jordan]

Jordan

 

I think its a great idea, others will have to answer your questions. A double powered chassis will improve the pulling power

I agree about the power but the only problem is I would like to connect them with a dcc decoder so they don't burn out when one is faster than the other, but im not sure if thats possible

 

Thanks

Jordan

[hayfield]

One motor connecting both chassis?

[LNERandBR]

My brother has built a OO gauge LNER Garratt which has both ends powered. For DCC he fitted two decoders, one for each end. He thought about using just one decoder but decided against it due to the current draw two motors would require.

 

It was a simple job of getting both ends to run together by adjusting the CV's just a little trial and error. Best way we found was to remove the boiler unit and treat both ends as separate locomotives. You could then see which end was faster then the other.

[Narrow Gauge Jordan]

Thanks for the information, would the names of the decoders have to be the same so they run together? Or would it just be easier to de-motor one for now until I get more experience with DCC, as I might not even need the power of two motors, I was thinking to keep some weight in the loco, could I just detatch the contacts of the second 'bogie'

 

Thanks

 

Jordan

[hayfield]

Jordan

 

I think you mean remove the motor, otherwise it will work as a big hand brake. and attach the pickups of the non powered chassis to the powered one

[LNERandBR]

The easiest way would be to place both ends on the Programming track and give them the same address.

 

You could also set up a Double Header or a consist but that depends on your DCC system. When setting them up to run together it would possibly be easier to have them set to different addresses. You can then make changes to one end and save getting in a muddle as it's a trial and error process.

[Narrow Gauge Jordan]

Thanks for the ideas,

 

Jordan

 

I think you mean remove the motor, otherwise it will work as a big hand brake. and attach the pickups of the non powered chassis to the powered one

I think this would be one of the best options as I can use that motor for another project (I'd like to scratch build a ng15 2-8-2 so watch this space )

 

I have also had an idea for the cab, I was looking at the wonderful range of 0n16.5 gauge kits from smallbrook studio and I discovered the parts are availible separately, this is great as I could use the wide cab kit for my garratt, it looks similar to that fitted to K1, and this would be used to judge the sizes (mainly the width and height).

 

Thanks

 

Jordan