Graham456 Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Hello can any one help me with my part built nucast Taff vale class A kit, it comes with a Cotswold brass lump / Bar chassis and a ECM type two motor and white metal motor cradle but no instructions or gears came with the kit, now most likely the recommend gears were Romford but of what ratio please so I can order some up, the bracket doesn't give a lot of play so can you ferret through your kit instructions to see what's recommended I know a modern gearbox and motor would give quiter running but for some stubborn reason I want to use this combination Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Back in the day when this kit was released, typically it was just 'builder's choice of a set of Romford gears of the desired ratio'. Whether 30:1, 40:1 or 60:1 they all nominally required the same spacing from motor shaft centre to axle centre. You just fiddled about with the mount to get the mesh right, and that's the job done. And the 60:1 gear stripped after five minutes, if the ECM motor didn't burn out first... I'd suggest 30:1, as it is forgiving if this is a first time job for you. (Personally I would consign the old parts to the outer darkness and put in a two stage fold up box with circa 40:1 reduction driven by the biggest Mashima that is an easy fit inside, and enjoy the quiet and reliable performance.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 I know the Mashima and gearbox are best have plenty of models with them in but...the oval cut out won't take a gearbox with out me spending all day with a file for one reason but the main one is that I am unemployed ( yes I know that means I have all day to get on with the file but I also have tons of other stuff to do) and also I don't or can't afford thirty five quid on a new motor and gearbox compared to three quid for gears But thank you anyway for your help Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted April 29, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 29, 2014 Hi Graham, I've done the same as you, and used a 60-1 gear in my A class. I seem to remember that I had to do some careful packing to get the gears to mesh well. There is some Woodbine fag packet in there somewhere! If I can find them, I'll scan the instructions, and PM them over. However, I'd also look at filing the oval 'square', and look at a High Level gear box, and a 54-1 ratio. Regards, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Hello and thanks again for the replys , Tomparryharry thank you, but the thing was bought on flea bay with the body built and the bar chassis is not had to guess being a bit basic I just do not know the centre to centre dimensions to use with which gear set, after (34thelatterbetween c&d) help I have looked at filing the hole and the sides of the bar will have to be thin to get a gearbox in as most gearboxes are designed to fit between etched frames or the likes, have just thought or remembered typing this that, I think high level do a slim line box ....hummm might have to save up if that's the case O the joys when I had a job I had no time now I have the time but can't afford to buy the bits to use the time aaaagh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 The old time / cash equation. I am none too sure that Romford 60 to 1 strip after 5 minutes, I have run some for 30 plus years but on a shunter, they are too low in my opinion for a mixed traffic 0-6-2T I would have thought 30 to 1 was about right. It is always difficult to get white metal cradles accurately aligned as they flex depending on how tight the screws are... The 60 to 1 are sods to get meshed as the axle gear tends to run eccentrically where the grub screw clamps it,I have on occasion drilled right through the axle and gear boss and put a bolt right through, I even used a split pin once which helps the gear run true. I tend to solder the worm itself in place rather than use the grub screw for the same reason. Shimming the axle gear for minimal sideplay, that is between gear and chassis not behind the wheels also helps the gears live long and fruitful lives, long after some of the plastic gears in the 2 stage gearboxes have cried enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Thank you david in the past I used the 60-1gears and remember them as a struggle to mesh , like you I think no side play in the drive axel is important especially if the gear has dished teeth has a side issue I have bought some second hand 0-4-0 loco kits with play in both axels which 0-4-0 s don't need to have to go around corners it just leaves to waddling Nice tip about putting the shimmins between the gear and chassis I can see the logic in that one rather than putting pressure on the wheels, it controls directly the bit it needs to Again thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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