hornbyandbf3fan Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 As the title says, I'm struggling with the under frame of my Parkside kit (it's my first one), could anyone help me with construction of it? So far I've built the body and the solebars with wheels fitted. It doesn't help that I'm clueless as to what the parts are called Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 A picture of the parts and the progress you have made with the under frame would be helpful. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Dodgy photos for you all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frappington Jct Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Are you sure it's all flat? That picture makes the far side look higher than the near one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 I noticed that too, another thing to sort on it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Sorry I can't help about the under frame issue (I haven't built mine yet ) But here's something that'll help with the names of different parts of a wagon, NOT MY PICTURE, I OWN NO RIGHTS, PERSONAL USE. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I'd like to help but having not built a Parkside kit yet, I would be much use, good luck anyway. Are the instructions no use then? The coopercraft ones had pictures which were very useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 I'd like to help but having not built a Parkside kit yet, I would be much use, good luck anyway. Are the instructions no use then? The coopercraft ones had pictures which were very useful. Some diagrams, but only show the end of the building process Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I agree that in your picture the wagon chassis looks twisted - not good. I think you will find that is a take apart and re build job. On the two brown sprues the pot type objects are vacuum cylinders. The long zig zag pieces are brake handles for long wheel base wagons. You need to look at some pictures of the real thing on Paul Bartlett's(?) web site. The short rectangular pieces are door stops which are mounted on the sole bar to stop the doors being damaged when they are dropped in opening. On the black sprue you have the brake shoes / hangar assembly which are glued to the chassis underside between the wheels. You also have mouldings for tension lock coupling, a crude hook for the buffer beam, hand brake levers for a shorter wheel base wagon. Somewhere you should have a rod/bar shaped moulding to fit between the two V's that hang down on opposite sides of the wagon. The vacuum cylinder is mounted to one side and connected by a short lever to this rod / bar. If you can get I believe we have a pipe wagon chassis at Bitton. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 It looks like you have broke the tie bar that goes between the axleboxes. If you have, cut it off and replace with a piece of wire superglued in its place. The next bit you need is to add the brakes, the long zig zag pieces on the black sprue. These need fixing to the undeframes between the wheel. If you look, there is detail on one side, that goes outwards. Start on the side with a single v hanging down, put the brake on that side so when the brake lever is pushed down, the brake would apply. The brake lever is on the brown coloured sprue. The other brake gear would be the same, but the brake lever on that side has two v hanging down. The little bits sticking out of the black sprue on the side of it are the door bangers that fit to the outside of the solebars, just under the bodyside. You will find that you will have pieces left over. Keep them safe, they will come in useful in the future for other wagons. A useful tip would be look on Paul Bartlett wagon pictures. Just put a search in google. Then try not to spend too much time looking at all the different wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Hi Will, I have built their 12T pipe wagon but in 7mm, so I will try and put some pictures up to help you, the wagon is finished except for painting, transfers and weathering. Being in 7mm it might help you see the detail a bit clearer . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 It looks like you have broke the tie bar that goes between the axleboxes. If you have, cut it off and replace with a piece of wire superglued in its place. The next bit you need is to add the brakes, the long zig zag pieces on the black sprue. These need fixing to the undeframes between the wheel. If you look, there is detail on one side, that goes outwards. Start on the side with a single v hanging down, put the brake on that side so when the brake lever is pushed down, the brake would apply. The brake lever is on the brown coloured sprue. The other brake gear would be the same, but the brake lever on that side has two v hanging down. The little bits sticking out of the black sprue on the side of it are the door bangers that fit to the outside of the solebars, just under the bodyside. You will find that you will have pieces left over. Keep them safe, they will come in useful in the future for other wagons. A useful tip would be look on Paul Bartlett wagon pictures. Just put a search in google. Then try not to spend too much time looking at all the different wagon. And here's the link to the relevant page of PB's site; lots of inspiration for painting and weathering; http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brpipe Glad to see someone getting into kit building, rather than being seduced by brightly-coloured boxes; the loss of Woolworth's as a shop-window for the Airfix ranges of all sorts of kits means that fewer people start with kits as children. Remember that wagons have the advantage of not having cockpit canopies; it wasn't until I went to an air-show that I realised these were meant to be transparent.. If you do get into kit building, it would be worth investing in a thick piece of glass, or a mirror, to check that all four wheels sit properly on the track. One of Brassmaster's alignment jigs is also useful, for ensuring the axles are square to one another. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Hi Will, Well hopefully these photos will be of some help, the one thing I did notice on one of your photos was it looks like you have fixed the hand brake lever between the two W irons . Nothing that can't be put right, and if you need anymore advice we are all here to help you. We all had to start somewhere, and these forums are a wealth of information that was not around when I started. With these cruel close ups I have just noticed that I need to adjust the door bangers, dohhh. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 ...With these cruel close ups I have just noticed that I need to adjust the door bangers, dohhh. You also might want to take another look at your brakes As it stands, the levers and vacuum cylinder will release one side and apply the other. It won't be any better if there's a Morton cam on the other side, as the two sides will work in opposition to each other. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 You also might want to take another look at your brakes As it stands, the levers and vacuum cylinder will release one side and apply the other. It won't be any better if there's a Morton cam on the other side, as the two sides will work in opposition to each other. Nick Cheers Nick, See Will, you are never to old to learn , still I'm glad you have pointed this out now rather than after it's been painted and weathered. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I had 15 minutes to spare so I have now rectified my mistake while it was fresh in my mind. I had a slight mishap with a tube of super glue while I was fixing my mistake, so if your ears were burning Nick you now know why ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks for the help, I'll try and rectify the mistakes I've made so far and then crack on with the under frame. I have more kits on order so hopefully I'll get better as I go Thanks again and the pictures will provide valuable reference! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I forgot about the two cranked / elbow shaped attachments per door linked between the doors and the sole bar, which show up so well on Martyn's post 13. These I believe are dampers to stop the doors dropping with a crash when opened Gordon A Bristol. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornbyandbf3fan Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 As a quick update, I have now fixed the sides so it now seems square. Tommorow, I'll attenpt to start on the brake gear once the solebars and wheels are sorted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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