RMweb Gold farren Posted January 24, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) Excellent work Neil, Looks like a great kit to build. Look forward to seeing it all painted. And the 79 I'll be looking forward to to as I scratch built one and have to say they do have a charm & presence even if it's sitting on a sideing or running about Edited January 24, 2015 by farren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted January 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2015 I would just like to congratulate you on the lovely Tilbury tank model. The photo that was put up earlier in the thread was one I built a while ago, which was painted by Mr Rathbone as I chickened out of the livery. I particularly appreciate the ways you got around one or two of the little pitfalls in the kit, which was not the most straightforward but as you have shown, can build up into a truly lovely looking model. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 With a bit of bending the brake pipe is now at the correct level, more or less. NV_42.jpg Painted black and then glued in place. NV_43.jpg Same again at the back. There was a hole in the buffer beam, so I put a piece of wire into it. I assume it's the steam pipe. NV_44.jpg So that's all good then. Well not quite. The thing about research is that it's better to do it before you build the model. Something didn't look right, so I went looking for some photos. I discovered that the rear brake pipe should be on the other side of the hook, and the pipe goes through the beam, not under it. So here is the corrected version. I've just about managed to avoid obliterating the number. NV_45.jpg I've only just started reading this thread, and there's some excellent modelling in it. Could you tell me which screw couplings you use, please. They look lovely. Thanks Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 24, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2015 Thanks Phil, the simple answer to your question is dunno. I didn't buy them new, they would have come from a bag of bits I've bought at a show, or off another old model I'd bought. Maybe someone else can identify them. They are nice, being fully articulated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted January 24, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2015 They could be smiths couplings. Have a look on scalelink.co.uk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 They could be smiths couplings. Have a look on scalelink.co.uk Thanks, the photos there certainly look the same so I'll order a set and if they are as good as they seem, I suspect that's what I'll be using from now on. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 29, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2015 Back to the current model, prior to painting it was given a good clean with some bathroom cleaner stuff and hot water. I masked the whistle with Maskol to keep it brass. I used red primer for the body, grey for the roof. Maskol removed. A row of decal rivets at the base of the smokebox, to replace those lost by my modification. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 1, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2015 For the main coat of paint I used a Halfords spray paint - Rover Damask Red. This is supposed to be a good match for crimson lake. This was the result. It seemed a bit bright to me, more like BR crimson. After the addition of some black paint I put it alongside my Midland 2P. Definitely too bright. So I got the Phoenix paint out and got painting. Here is the result. Much better. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2015 With the painting of the body complete, inside and out.. it was onto the lining using HMRS transfers. This is a slow process, with lots of curves around the cab sides. This was early on in the process. Some time later one cabside and tank is finished. Still lots more to do just on this side. And then there's the other one! 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 This is looking nice. Did you paint over grey primer? With red it is better to use red oxide as red is so translucent. I have used damask red, it was never that pink. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2015 Hi Peter, on the body I used red primer. The damask red looks pinker in the photo than it did in reality, but it didn't match the Midland red. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2015 (edited) After the passage of much time the task of lining with transfers was finished (as far as I can tell). This is the result. The end is in sight, I think. Edited February 6, 2015 by Nile 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Looks very good! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Wow. That lining really pops! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Lovely job Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 7, 2015 Thanks for the kind comments. I just realised I forgot to mention the boiler bands. I used sticky tape for these, it gives a much finer effect than etched ones (and are easier to apply). You can just about see them in the first photo in post #207. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 9, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Lots of little jobs to finish off this model. On the chassis the cylinders were painted and lined. Here it is being run-in on rollers. The cab glazing fits into slots. The original pieces felt too tight to fit, so I made new ones from thinner material. This shows how it works, I marked and then cut off the part above the cab roofline. For couplings I used some Bachmann ones left over from my 1F conversion. They fit nicely into the slot but need something to retain them. I drilled a hole near the end of the 'tail' and inserted some thin steel rod. You can just about see it in this photo. Buffer heads also fitted. For the smokebox number plate I used some 20thou plastic card and Microscale transfers. Vacuum ejector pipe painted and fitted (smokebox to cab). I'm not sure the colour is correct, but reference material is thin on the ground. Some real coal added to the bunker. I need to crush up some more. Edited February 9, 2015 by Nile 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I am genuinely in awe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John K Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) It looks a really great model. There is a small detail you might wish to consider. On all of the Tilbury 4-4-2s the connecting rods are mounted inside the coupling rods. On the rear driver the coupling rod is bushed away from the wheel by the width of the con rod. This seen nicely in the photo of 2115 on p94 of George Dow's LTS Album, in Locomotives Illustrated No 101, and is also apparent in this picture http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/lms/mr/kingsnorton/lmslocos/mrknlms236l.jpg It's a feature that is frequently overlooked. The same design of apparently inside-out rods can be seen on the MR 4-4-0 Compounds. Best, John Edited February 10, 2015 by GOG Editor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2015 Thanks John. The coupling rod mounting position is covered in the instructions, mine is wrong because it's OO gauge and would look worse if it was correct. The OO world is full of compromises. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2015 Lovely piece of work Neil, definitely a loco to be proud of. Do you not employ chemical blackening for anything? All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 It looks a really great model. There is a small detail you might wish to consider. On all of the Tilbury 4-4-2s the connecting rods are mounted inside the coupling rods. On the rear driver the coupling rod is bushed away from the wheel by the width of the con rod. This seen nicely in the photo of 2115 on p94 of George Dow's LTS Album, in Locomotives Illustrated No 101, and is also apparent in this picture http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/lms/mr/kingsnorton/lmslocos/mrknlms236l.jpg It's a feature that is frequently overlooked. The same design of apparently inside-out rods can be seen on the MR 4-4-0 Compounds. Best, John Adams, when on the South Western like doing it this way too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 12, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2015 As you've all been so nice I'm going to spoil you with some more eye candy. It's time for some scenic photos. First just the loco. Next with some coaches. These are Ratio suburbans. I have five of these coaches I bought already made, the bogies are falling apart but I found enough intact for these photos. And now with some other Midland locos, as seen on my other workbench topic. And that's it, or so I thought. When going through the kit leftovers I found something I'd missed, coming up in the next exciting episode! 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Oh how could you leave it off like this? Forgetting something and not tell us? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted February 12, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2015 Builders plate could it be? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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