M Graff Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hey all! Today, in the first real summer heat, this came in the mailbox: A Shay in HO of Katsumi manufacturing! But it has been in kept in the foam ..... for maaaany years apparently. Lots of tarnish, discolorations and these foam pieces and oil everywhere! Good that I only paid £28 for it. The buffer beam had come loose, but was luckily found in the foam in the box. So much dirt and crud are there.... After some washing it looks a little better. A whole lot to do, but I think it might look okay when finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 OOOOH! You are braver than me, Michael - but it looks like it may be worth it in the end! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 You could do with a fine sand blaster http://www.airbrushsupplyonline.com/airbrushes/airbrush-kits/hs-178-fine-spray-mini-sandblaster-air-eraser to clean all that up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 An acetone bath should dissolve the foam then a good scrub after or an ultrasonic cleaner will finish the job. Probably best to test with a small bit first to make sure it works. The wheels will have insulation in them that might not like acetone so extra caution there. HTH David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 I have dipped the body in acetone, cleaned the boggies with isopropyl alcohol. I have now sandblasted the body as well. (Dave, I have one already :-)....) The gears are tested and oiled and are now very smooth. This will be fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Well in that case if it all works when rebuit £28 is a bargain, not that I'm jealous....oh no. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Michael, Are you thinking of replacing the motor or staying with the old one? Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Well in that case if it all works when rebuit £28 is a bargain, not that I'm jealous....oh no. :-) Michael, Are you thinking of replacing the motor or staying with the old one? Cheers, David I will see what motor I can replace it with. The original is not good and draws too much current. Any ideas on what motor I can use? Here is the loco sandblasted and tested. Sorry about the bad pic, will shoot a better one tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 A small Mashima would be the first thought but it's hard to say what size would be best lacking dimensions. I suppose it also depends on whether you can salvage the worm from the original or perhaps a new drive set up would be in order. IIRC the model Shay's drive is much like the prototype except for the lack of steam Cheers, David edited for dodgy spelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 You also may want to fit a flywheel, and the largest motor possible- small Mashima s don't like being overworked and will overheat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 You also may want to fit a flywheel, and the largest motor possible- small Mashima s don't like being overworked and will overheat.As I will install a DCC decoder with BEMF, I will not use a flywheel as I have experienced problems with flywheels an BEMF.I have measured and measured and measured again! The biggest motor that will fit (with a decoder behind it) is a Mashima MH1628. An advantage is that it have a 2mm axle, so the worm will fit without a collet. Now to wait and see how fast Messieurs Finney and Smith can deliver it to Sweden! :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Just putting a stack of inexpensive neodymium magnets (plus a soft iron air-gap filler shim if needed ) will rejuvenate the motor and reduce its current consumption by 40-60%. Andy PS I agree with the micro sand blast solution. It's difficult to get rid of the tarnish using just solvents. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 A small update. I received the new Mashima motor the other day. The worm gear was therefore removed from the old motor and was attached to the new one. The worm required a small bit of solder to lock it to the motor axle, it was attached like that on the old motor. I fabricated a motor bracket that I soldered to the frame. There was some small interference between some of the interior parts on the body and the motor, but it was easily solved with the Dremel! The test drive was VERY smooth, with a small hickup when changing direction! It was sourced to the crank shaft that rocks in the holders, so I have to shim it a bit.... It sure is a wonderful transformation that makes a lemon into a jewel! I will add some pics tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 Test drive: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Well it is getting to be quite to my liking. [] I have done a bit more on the locomotive. Soldered together a toolbox that I mounted on the walkway and secured the crankshaft with som plasticard shims: This is how it looked stripped before painting: I painted the locomotive with a transparent Etch Primer and then used a custom mixed dark gray color (Humbrol). I painted it gray as I think it looks better. I baked the body and the trucks in the oven at 65 ° C for 20 minutes. It makes the color very hard and adheres well. Now it is to be assembled, have the decals mounted and all the details painted and to be weathered! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Of course you realize that now you have to build a logging layout to go with the engine . Seriously though, it has been great fun watching you bring this little engine back to life. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Dear David, M, Ahem... http://www.carendt.com/articles/secrets/index.html http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page103a/#logdump(could be downscaled to HO, and fit within a very managable space, I'm thinking 4x1 or smaller...) Happy Modelling,Aim to Improve,Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 I will add a small logging area to my new layout. :-) Here is a small video of the painted Shay: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I'm curious as to the size/power of the new motor. Have you tried out how it smooth starts pulling cars or climbing a a 5% grade, or both.? And a pic of the new motor in place ? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 I havent tried pulling any cars yet, but it climbs a 25% incline by itself with no problems! :-) I made the bracket from Nickel silver plate. The worm is secured by a dot of solder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 I'm curious as to the size/power of the new motor. Have you tried out how it smooth starts pulling cars or climbing a a 5% grade, or both.? And a pic of the new motor in place ? Andy I have tested its performance now.It is really smooth when pulling away with some cars in tow! I made a 120 cm long incline test track, using the notoriously slippery Roco Geoline track. I added a 42 cm radius curve in the middle of it as well. By itself, the Shay managed to start and climb up a 25% grade! With 3 NMRA weighted 40' boxcars in tow it was possible to start and climb a 8% grade. When I removed the curve it increased the load to 4 boxcars on the 8% grade, or 3 cars on a 10% grade. So.... it is a very good puller considering its very small size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Graff Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Found some small sticks to make the firewood from: It is rosehip branches that I sawed into small lengths and cleaved. I have begun the detailing and finishing. In addition to the tools that you see in the picture above, I have put figures on each side to hide the motor a bit more. Now there is just a little bit of weathering, decoder installation, lights, glass and decals left to do. It's getting there.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I have tested its performance now. It is really smooth when pulling away with some cars in tow! I made a 120 cm long incline test track, using the notoriously slippery Roco Geoline track. I added a 42 cm radius curve in the middle of it as well. By itself, the Shay managed to start and climb up a 25% grade! With 3 NMRA weighted 40' boxcars in tow it was possible to start and climb a 8% grade. When I removed the curve it increased the load to 4 boxcars on the 8% grade, or 3 cars on a 10% grade. So.... it is a very good puller considering its very small size. Terrific! Great job! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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