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Building an LMS Stove R That Works


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Just in case anyone is on the edge of their seat waiting for a progress report, I've ordered Shawplan LaserGlaze windows today.  The van has been painted and I will be applying transfers shortly.

 

John

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This has really tested my sanity but I think I'm wrassling it into shape.  Here's a shot of the van with main parts dry fitted:

 

 

P1010001.JPG.a103da3685894bd8afb8c8bbb0fde527.JPG

 

This is the second I've got to this stage.  

 

Now we just need windows.  I've made frames for the security bars and they're ready to go.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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  • 2 weeks later...

Upside down windows?????  :O  Whatever do you mean Mike? :scratchhead:   I've just popped them in and secured with what we call Future (a very old bottle, I treat it like 18 year old (and that's probably how old it is) whiskey).  There is an oh so slight bevel which can't be seen but can be felt - if that's what you mean.  So, important to get that right.

 

John

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Alright Coachman et al, you win.  I am fed up with the plastic body.  I thought I had got it done but discovered some door ventilators were crooked.  In trying to fix that I just made things worse.  It could be sorted but I think it would have to be taken to bare plastic again.

 

So...I decided to do what I probably should have done in the first place and make the Comet version.  I only have to do the body, because the underframe I built works great.   I've been working on it today and here's where I got tonight:

 

 

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That arch of solder is pre-tinning because I have whitemetal suspended gangways to install.  The gangways themselves have been assembled.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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I got a lot of the detailing done today:

 

 

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I have to redo the curved handrail for the other end.  I got smart and made a jig this evening - I'll need to make a lot more before I'm finished.

 

I think that cast suspended gangway looks pretty ugly.  I expect it will look better when painted.  This is the first time I've used one.  Anyone have any tips on making these look better?

 

You'll note I did do the suspension brackets.  I also made a handrail and lever.

 

Also note the lamp brackets.  I made these from spare suspension brackets (there was a convenient etched hole) bent and cut down.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Coachman, if you're watching, I took your advice and scrounged a hard plastic gangway set from my spares box.  It's the only one I have - all the rest are those 'orrible squidgy affairs.  Even so, the plastic seems impervious to solvent.  I'm quite a bit happier about this since I have the inside door detail and didn't want to use an end plate.

 

 

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I tried to represent the springs on the suspension apparatus - they need a trim I think.

 

I used some masking tape to represent the canvas cover.

 

My next big job is the panel beading.  I'm thinking plastic strip and cyano unless there's a better idea out there.

 

The roof is complete.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Thanks.  Knowing what doesn't work is useful.  The other thing that crosses my mind is 1mm wide phosphor bronze strip, although this may be too thick.  0.040" (1mm) x 0.010" plastic strip seems, in my mind, to be about right.

 

John

 

For those wondering, for some reason  the previous poster decided to delete the post that I responded to.

Edited by brossard
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  • 2 months later...

It's been a while, but I think I got it cracked, here's the van all gussied up:

 

 

P1010001-008.JPG.f8cdd44a5db7903d521cc83a4b232c7c.JPG

 

I'm quite happy with this and think it looks the part.  You can just see some of the security bars which I think are a significant detail.

 

I made them thus:

 

I marked up the positions of the bars on an index card.  Frames are scrap brass strip.  These were stuck onto double sided tape and the wire (0.45mm NS) soldered on:

 

 

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These are the verticals and:

 

 

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these are the horizontals.  There are a lot because I also have three Bachmann LMS BGs to upgrade.

 

Here's are some examples after being removed from the card and trimmed:

 

 

P1010003-004.JPG.79a0b90fd70fbb8fe58cc2a7bddda753.JPG

 

John

Edited by brossard
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  • 2 years later...

Brossard

I've enjoyed reading your thread and it has prompted me to finally take down one of the coach kits I've been storing on the shelf for many years. I've made a number of engines, but never a coach as yet, although I've always been a keen reader of Coachman's fantastic threads. 

 

Thus, I've lifted down a Comet Stove R kit, and the pictures and info you've cataloged above have been invaluable in helping me take the plunge. I'm still debating how to handle the centre axle, and whether or not to use the Comet supplied arrangement, or the Brassmasters Cleminson solution. In the mean time I've started on the superstructure, per below, using a separate Comet detailing fret for the hinges, and Coachman's tip for the doorstops.

 

Progress will be slow as I only get to the bench periodically, but I'll post again in due coarse. Going to Missenden for some painting tuition in March, so I'd love to have it ready for then. 

 

post-4427-0-68591000-1483887189_thumb.jpg

Coach sides, with all fittings except T handles (on order from Wizard Models)

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Great to know that I've inspired you.  If you are doing 00 or EM (I can't speak to P4), I don't think you need the complication of cleminson.  If you go back to post #1, you will see a much simpler method that permits the easier application of underframe detail.

 

Here's a finished view:

 

 

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Note the center axle is just along for the ride.  Note also that the wheels have been thinned to give just a bit more clearance.  This view is after converting back from EM to 00.  I had to remove the yokes.

 

Here's a Hornby Insulated Milk van where I used a cleminson chassis (can't recall if it was Slaters or Brassmasters):

 

 

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Getting the brake gear details installed was a fiddle.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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