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Which coupling for Container Flats ?


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Hi Guys

 

I am having problems with coupling locomotives to Bachmann container flats.

Whichever coupling i have tried, the leading wagon to the loco keeps derailing on curves.

I also have a set of Dapol container flats, and these are worse.

 

I know what is happening. The buffers are touching when the train enters curves, therefore the loco derails the first container flat bogie.

The distance between the two sets of buffers isn't enough.

 

I am a fan of Kadee's,which serve me well, but not on these rakes.

The Bachmann flats to the loco are stepped as you are probable aware, but the Dapol ones are about the same height.

 

Has anyone any idea of whic Kadee's to use ?

If not, i am willing to try any coupling system the gives me the extra distance to stop this problem

 

Thanks

 

Ronnie

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You haven't said which Kadees you are using Ronnie.  Are they the NEM type?  I find that for wagons #18 usually work well.  From your description it seems to me that the fix is to lengthen the shank by going for a higher # NEM Kadee.  Rule of thumb is that the knuckle hinge should be in line with the buffer heads.

 

John

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I have fitted Kadee #19 to the ends of a rake of Bachmann intermodal and these negotiate 2nd radius curves on our church layout without problems whenever we have running sessions.

 

The loco is generally a matching Bachmann 37 or 66 but I have also run them with Hornby 50 all without derailments.

 

Hope this helps.

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Cheers Guys

 

John, Yes i use the NEM type

Karl, My issue is that the container flat NEM socket is slightly lower than the Bachmann 66's socket, which has to be the loco's used as per the prototype.

And as stated above, the distance between buffers from wagon to loco isn't enough,hence the clash around curves.

Ernie, thanks for your suggestion, but use two of each type of which? There are loads of different ones

 

You can buy a largish bag of all different sizes, i know, but these are quite expensive

 

Cheers

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There aren't all that many different types for NEM Kadees Ronnie.  Just #17 thru #20.  I have never used #17 as they are too short for me.  I tend to use #20s on coaches, with the coupling attached to the bogie.  That leaves #18 and #19 to play around with.  If the couplings are at different heights this could be the manufacturer playing silly bu**er with the spec. (Bachmann did this with their early NEM wagons, but lately they've been right).  If you have the Kadee height gauge, check which one is correct and try to rework the incorrect one - hopefully its the wagon. 

 

John

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Cheers GuysJohn, Yes i use the NEM typeKarl, My issue is that the container flat NEM socket is slightly lower than the Bachmann 66's socket, which has to be the loco's used as per the prototype.And as stated above, the distance between buffers from wagon to loco isn't enough,hence the clash around curves.Ernie, thanks for your suggestion, but use two of each type of which? There are loads of different onesYou can buy a largish bag of all different sizes, i know, but these are quite expensiveCheers

I agree the socket is slightly low but I cheat by sanding a couple of thou off the socket so it sits higher under the wagon and then shimming under the Kadee with a small piece of plasticard (10 or20 thou)

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Good thinking Karl. I may try that.

I have a WHTT set on Dapol intermodal wagons,which will top n tailed by Vitrains new Rail Express DRS Class 47's due out in September,so i need to get this right.

I currently use a Bachmann Class 20 top n tailed with a Class 37, but they both derail whether at the front or back.

John, you are right. Nobody plays silly bu***rs like Bachmann and its a pity they can't anticipate this problem,especially as their own wagons cause coupling problems with their own locomotives !

It could be of course that my curves are a little on the tight side, but i don't think so.

I guess i'll have to try the #20's, but i am open to moving away from Kadee,s if neccessary.

 

Thank you all for all your suggestions so far, i appreciate your views and ideas

 

Ronnie

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You will probably need #19 or #20, on the wagons, and if #20 is not long enough fit a #20 to the loco too. There is quite a problem with the close coupling system on these wagons where if you use non-rigid couplings like tension lock or kadee the couplings tend to open out on the straight by moving to the side, and if they are at the wrong side when entering a curve the buffers will clash and the side force on the bogie will cause the flange to ride up the rail and derail. Using a rigid coupling like the Bachmann solid bar or Fleishmann profi couplings will stop this happening, and finding a way to stop the coupling dragging on the axle will reduce the force on the coupling too. It is much worse at the front where the coupling has the maximum load, but you will see the problem elsewhere in the train too. I could not get more than three pairs to run well without moving to the solid bars.

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