GC bits 'n pieces

[great central]

Well, I now find myself with an enforced rest period for medical reasons, so time to do a bit of modelling I think.

Not had the time to crack into anything much for the last couple of years really, so didn't want to start up a thread and then not touch it for weeks at a time.

Jobs at the moment revolve around our new club project, Trent Lane Junction, to the east of Nottingham where the Midland, Great Northern and Nottingham Suburban lines all crossed one another.

Over the years I have been modelling things that I remember, or perhaps think I remember!

As many of my school holidays were spent beside the GC line just north of Nottingham, an exLNER bias is innevitable, although that section of line was absorbed by the LM region in the late 50's, so some ex LMS stuff comes in as well.

The last loco build is a Little Engines O4/8, which I glazed a couple of weeks ago and stuck the cab roof on earlier this week.

I must say that I found this one a good deal better than the first one I did, seemed to be better quality metal, maybe it's down to a degree of familiarity though.

It's still waiting the bogie being painted and fitted.

I tried a couple of new ideas on this one, which seem to work at the moment but as I can't test anything on track at the moment, we will have to see.

The first is W&T driving wheels, basically old type Romfords with plastic centres, it is recommended to use the deluxe romford crankpins due to the risk of heat damage if using the soldered ones. Now being tight prudent I decided to see if it would be possible to use 10BA screws instead, with the thread removed where it passes through the coupling rod. Bench test seems to work ok.

The other is due to having to provide pickups for both sides, I felt I need something a bit more rigid for pick up wire, small gauge spring steel seemed best but difficult to solder reliably to the pickup plate. Then looked again at the wife's cast off guitar strings, which I have used for years suitably modified for vacuum pipes and such like.

They are nickel (silver?) wound round a steel core, perfect! Dug out one of the smaller sizes, don't ask me which, and it too was steel wound with nickel, a quick trial confirmed that it took solder very well. So stripped the nickel back from the end in contact with the wheel formed it as required then soldered it to the PCB pick up plate, good strong joint, simples!

Anyway here it is, if the paint looks a bit patchy, it is! As most of my locos will be heavily weathered, I don't worry too much about a pristine initial paint job.

 

The other loco in build at the momemt is my third ABS L1, this is a case of I'd started (before Hornby's announcemnet) so I'll finish.

The wheels are old type romford from a part built Nucast K1 kit I picked up last year, I'll replace them when I start on that. The motor is one I have had for years, a 16/30 Mashima, doen't fit in anything with a narrow firebox, but if size is anything to go by, will make this a really strong loco, it's certainly no lightweight.

The gearbox is a Mainlytrains mount, costing about ??1.20 I think, with Romford 30:1 gearset, I sometimes like things that have a fair turn of speed, not neccessarily prototypical, but gives (to me) the impression of actually getting somewhere. Made up the chassis, with the mount in place fitted the gearset and driving axle, perfect mesh straight away, only niggle was a slight kink at the end of the worm 'thread', motor soon saw that off though!

For some reason, I may have had this kit for about 15 years, the coupling rods didn't seem right, so fine that by the time the holes were opened out to crankpin size, there wa nothing left. However there are 4 pairs of connecting rods so I've made up coupling rods by re drilling the spare sets of con rods, when they are hidden behind the rest of the valve gear I don't think it will be that noticable.

 

I'd assembled the basic body shell, using my two hands, with a bit of difficulty, starting from the back. Question comes to mind, if evolution is so good why have we still only got TWO hands!?

Then when I looked at it properly decided it was nowhere near square so took it to bits again, and rebuilt it starting from the front, which looks a lot better. Final job last night was tidying up and modifying the bunker rear where the ladder comes up, the kit is for the first loco, which had a short ladder.

 

Hopefully, it'll finish up like this one

 

[Mallard60022]

Good looking stuff GC. Pity the 'enforced' time is what you have at the mo for modelling.

Sincerely, 36E

[great central]

Update on progress on the L1, yes Mr. Hornby I will get mine finished before your's comes out.

Boiler now fitted into body assembly, bit of a niggle getting the smokebox saddle area right and boiler sitting level. It nearly is!

 

 

Next, the cylinders and valve gear, having in the past follwed the advice and rivetted my valve gear, I now countersink the rearmost part and solder it up. I find I can get much better working tolerances, with less risk of a part binding or getting distorted.

I kink the radius rod slightly to give the impression that the loco is 'in gear' at least a bit. This kit gives you a large etched subframe to mount the valve gear on so I made it a complete sub assembly by soldering the radius rod support at the rear to the etch as well instead of passing it through the chassis as per the instructions. That way, if i have to remove the valve gear it's much easier, just disconnect the rods on the centre crankpin and take the whole assembly off.

[Galtee More]

Looking good GC. Takes me back to my schoolboy jaunts from Nottingham Vic to Grantham and to Derby Friargate.

 

With that huge washing machine motor in, it'll be interesting to compare performance with your other L1s and the new Hornby model.