Keith George Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 I have a H/D Duchess tender that is missing a wheel. Is it possible to obtain a flanged tender wheel.? If so, how would you fit it, the axle and opposite wheel are in place and the wheel frame is rivited to the tender base.? Regards, Keith. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted August 7, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2014 Try this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-Dublo-Duchess-L-M-S-3-rail-maroon-type-locomotive-tender-/221512651968?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item33932ed4c0 There are plenty of tenders on E bay - search for Dublo tender and see what's there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 The wheels are usually available on eBay. Fitting them is a problem. It is necessary to drill out the two rivets holding the tinplate 'chassis' in place taking care not to damage it or the diecast frame. The new wheel then presses on to the axle, setting the back to back to 14.2mm (spot on precision is not essential with Dublo track. It is probably advisable to remove the tinplate body by carefully prising up the tabs. There are two types of wheel - 'Atholls' have open spoked wheels, 'Montroses' solid backed wheels (also fitted to the 'N2', 'Castles' and '8F'). The nylon 2 rail wheels will also fit, as will the Wrenn wheels. I found this N2 pony but the price is ridiculous (It's going on the 'eBay Madness' thread! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-DUBLO-3-RAIL-N2-0-6-2T-REAR-BOGIE-SPOKED-WHEELS-STEEL-COUPLING-wrenn-/351117706919?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item51c03f06a7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith George Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 The wheels are usually available on eBay. Fitting them is a problem. It is necessary to drill out the two rivets holding the tinplate 'chassis' in place taking care not to damage it or the diecast frame. The new wheel then presses on to the axle, setting the back to back to 14.2mm (spot on precision is not essential with Dublo track. It is probably advisable to remove the tinplate body by carefully prising up the tabs. There are two types of wheel - 'Atholls' have open spoked wheels, 'Montroses' solid backed wheels (also fitted to the 'N2', 'Castles' and '8F'). The nylon 2 rail wheels will also fit, as will the Wrenn wheels. I found this N2 pony but the price is ridiculous (It's going on the 'eBay Madness' thread! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-DUBLO-3-RAIL-N2-0-6-2T-REAR-BOGIE-SPOKED-WHEELS-STEEL-COUPLING-wrenn-/351117706919?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item51c03f06a7 Thank-you very much for your well detailed reply, very helpful and appreciated Regards, Keith. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 If it`s three rail,stick to the metal wheels.I have a late 3 rail Castle that was fitted with nylon pony & tender wheels & it stalled on diamond crossings.The problem was solved when i swapped the tender from my earlier Castle which had metal wheels & so ,it picked up current through the tender wheels & drawbar.Since the earlier Castle had metal pony truck wheels,pick up wasn`t a problem. John at Mainly trains is very helpful. http://mainlytrains.webs.com/PriceList.htm Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 If it`s three rail,stick to the metal wheels.I have a late 3 rail Castle that was fitted with nylon pony & tender wheels & it stalled on diamond crossings.The problem was solved when i swapped the tender from my earlier Castle which had metal wheels & so ,it picked up current through the tender wheels & drawbar.Since the earlier Castle had metal pony truck wheels,pick up wasn`t a problem. John at Mainly trains is very helpful. http://mainlytrains.webs.com/PriceList.htm Ray. Just swopping the bogie would probably have done and it shouldn't be a problem with a Duchess. I would agree the metal wheels run better, I find the 4MT tanks in particular are prone to derailment with nylon wheels. I would confirm your recommendation of John at Mainly Trains. I meant to post a link myself but forgot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Just swopping the bogie would probably have done and it shouldn't be a problem with a Duchess. I would agree the metal wheels run better, I find the 4MT tanks in particular are prone to derailment with nylon wheels. I would confirm your recommendation of John at Mainly Trains. I meant to post a link myself but forgot. I`m going back a few years about this,pre internet days,that shows how long ago when there wern`t so many spares about.The web has revolutionised the buying of spares(and new meccano parts ) Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith George Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 I had always thought that the power was picked up by the middle rail. But seeing these replies I presume power was collected from the outside rails. ? Regards, Keith. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I had always thought that the power was picked up by the middle rail. But seeing these replies I presume power was collected from the outside rails. ? Regards, Keith. It's picked up from one, then returned via the other; good contact has to be maintained with both to ensure reliable running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I had always thought that the power was picked up by the middle rail. But seeing these replies I presume power was collected from the outside rails. ? Regards, Keith. Yes in essence,wired correctly,the centre rail is positive,the tinplate base is negative,being DC,when you reversed the controller to make the loco go backwards,the centre rail became negative & the tinplate base became positive.It was a simple setup,reverse curves became easy,no extra wiring was involved unlike two rail which needed switching which really led to the downfall of Hornby Dublo. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith George Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks for the explanation Ray, I fully understand now. I am well versed with two rail after 60+ years of model railways, but have had no experience with three rail. The closest I got was my face glued to the local model shop window when i was 7/8/9 years old, mouth watering looking at Duchess of Montrose and Silver King. But I did receive a Rovex/Traing Black Princess Christmas 1953. Regards, Keith. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks Keith,the Hornby Dublo 2 rail system was a hurried affair having seen Triangs` success with a 2 rail system.It was designed by a model railway enthusiast who didn`t realise that it had to be kept simple ie.not with live frog points,double & single isolating rails.Meccano Ltd wanting to provide the best fell into the trap of the system being too complicated,Simplec dead frog points were introduced soon after but the damage was done. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted August 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 11, 2014 It was a great pity that the business like approach of Hornby Dublo was not applied to the 2 rail. As sagaguy says the system was designed by an enthusiast. That would have been ok to get started, but if the design had then been compared to the Triang system, the marketing people should surely have realised the complexity in comparision and insisted on some changes. Anyway, the locomotives and rolling stock were well built and mine (both 2 rail and 3 rail) are running reliabily to this day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Yes in essence,wired correctly,the centre rail is positive,the tinplate base is negative,being DC,when you reversed the controller to make the loco go backwards,the centre rail became negative & the tinplate base became positive.It was a simple setup,reverse curves became easy,no extra wiring was involved unlike two rail which needed switching which really led to the downfall of Hornby Dublo. Ray. The loco should go forwards when the centre rail is negative with respect to the running rails. That's why the magnet has to be reversed on 3 rail locos with respect to 2 rail. Had they thought to make the left side wheels insulated,rather that the right, this would not have been necessary. Incidentally Trix, though using the 3 rail system, used the centre rail as the common return. Reversal was, of course, a hit and miss affair with AC sequence reversing (but four diodes will sort that out!). Part of the problem with the two rail track was/is the flimsy polystyrene sleeper base, which falls apart with only slightly rough handling, above all with the double isolating rails. Live frogs are the best way of building reliable pointwork, but at the expense of complicated track sectioning. The 'Simplec' (dead frog) points are collectable but decidedly inferior to the earlier version. The Trix fibre track being marketed as universal (I was never sure how well Dublo locos took to 13½" radius curves though) and also allowing the continued use of 3 rail stock can't have helped either. Dublo made several marketing errors in the fifties - too few new locomotives, too late into 2 rail (they should have started with this in 1938), price, the awful Märklin copy track (Why did it have to be yellow?) .... EDIT We cab blame the Bing Table Railway for the yellow, but that doesn't explain why! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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