How to form curves with Peco flextrack

[michaelp]

As I have no idea how to use Peco flextrack for making curves I have used Peco Setrack 3rd radius curves for the inner loop on my layout but I want to use flexi for the outside curves which I assume would be close to a 4th radius curve, problem is I don't know how to start the curves because of the way the rails go shorter or longer as the track is manipulated.

 

If anyone can advise me on this I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance

 

Michael  

Edited August 8, 2014 by michaelp

[RFS]

Whenever you curve flexible track, the inner rail will be longer than the outer and therefore needs to be trimmed.  Best tool for this is a Xuron track cutter, plus you'll need a small file to clean up the ends afterwards so that you can slip a rail joiner on.  For curves of fixed radius you can use Tracksettas, and these (and the Xuron track cutter) are both available from Hatton's and elsewhere.

Edited August 9, 2014 by RFS

[michaelp]

Hi Thanks for your reply, so is the outside curve formed first and fixed to the baseboard then any straights are simply joined on?

I have always used Setrack in the past so flexi is very new to me.

 

Thanks again

Michael

[BR60103]

I usually start at one end of the curve. Sometimes I start at points or crossings -- things that go in a particular place. The flex track can also do both a straight and curved portion and often has to as the lengths don't come out even.

Peco make a double track spacing gauge that will put the track out the right distance.

You may find it easier to put the track down, trim the inside rail, then straighten it out and solder the joints. This eliminates some of the kinks at the joints.  You may also want to put a bit of curve at the ends of the rails -- not easy to do smoothly, though.

[Il Grifone]

Joints require the rail fixings cutting away from the last sleepers to allow the rail joiners to fit properly. Cut using a sharp knife and care, Joints can be staggered ( It's not British practice, but it makes them stronger). The great advantage of flexible track is that it allows smooth transition curves which look better (being prototype practice) and improve running.

 

Sighting along the rail shows up dog legs etc. and allow a little gap for expansion of the rail.

Edited February 24, 2021 by Il Grifone
missing 'o'

[RFS]

 

You may find it easier to put the track down, trim the inside rail, then straighten it out and solder the joints. This eliminates some of the kinks at the joints. 

Do not solder the joints! Otherwise track cannot expand in hot weather and will buckle.  Use a metal rail joiner to ensure the rails remain aligned. However, it's not advisable to use an insulated rail joiner on a join on a curve as it's not strong enough to hold the rails together.

[michaelp]

Thank you to everyone who took the time to reply to my post.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Hi Thanks for your reply, so is the outside curve formed first and fixed to the baseboard then any straights are simply joined on?

I have always used Setrack in the past so flexi is very new to me...

Blending set track and flexitrack. It can be done, but you may quickly appreciate that you are not able to make the best use of either.

 

If you are committed to using set track for a significant amount of the layout, then lay all the set track first, because it has a pre-set geometry. Then use the flexitrack as is most economical to conform to the set track. The flexitrack will run off the curve and into straight; I would suggest transitioning to set track where the least has to be cut off a flexitrack length to make a joint. (Trying to use short pieces of flexi as custom 'make up' pieces is something to avoid if possible.)

 

The better way though is to make the leap to all flexitrack, as this allows the curvature to be as large as your space permits, and the plain track is a whole lot cheaper than set track pieces, to name two advantages

[rodshaw]

A Peco video I have recommends removing the end couple of inches of sleeper webbing and gently flexing both rails in the direction of the curve, to form a slight permanent curve, so avoiding dog legs. Then you put the sleeper webbing back, cutting off the end chairs to get the rail joiners on.

[28XX]

To avoid dog legs at the joints I use a number of large bulldog type clips to hold rails in alignment while the glue (NOT PINS) holding the track to the underlay sets.

[Poor Old Bruce]

For laying gentle curves and transitions, I have used a length of nylon curtain rail (it comes in various lengths and profiles which will have different flexibilities) which can be bent to the shape required to get smooth curves (and hopefully return to something like straight to be able to use it again). You may need three hands to hold the curtain rail and another to draw a line with a pencil before you lay the track. I have tried 'eye-ing it up' with some success but less reliable than the curtain rail. If you get misalignments in the curve you will see that coach bogies wiggle about under the coach as they run along.

[LNWR18901910]

I've been looking for this thread on how to make the tight curves for a micro layout I have been planning and wanting to do (the videos are on the thread).

What I really want is to make a 00 Gauge micro layout that is easy to set up and run trains and also to fold up and store away when not in use. So, which length should I go for in choosing flexi-track? I tried using 1st radius curves (or was it 2nd radius curves) to measure and they layout was measured at 30" wide by 44" inches long I was hoping to make it a wee bit shorter and slightly thinner in order for it to become a portable model railway.

[wasdavetheroad]

I have made extensive use of both Flexitrack and Setrack on my layout with No4 radius in the fiddle yard. I even used long lengths of Setrack to form long smooth curves, at least it stays curved. I have a hankering for a manufacturer to provide larger than No4 radius curves, with a reduced track spacing of course.

[ikcdab]

If you want fixed radius curves then you might as well stick with setrack. Flexitrack is only better if you want wider radius or some kind of transition curve. Both of these are desirable and turn a trainset into a model railway. So do use flexitrack, but use it for what it's intended for. 

It's more difficult to fix down as it will want to revert to straight. I glue down with copydex and hold in place with weights until the glue takes.

[DCB]

12 hours ago, LNWR18901910 said:

I've been looking for this thread on how to make the tight curves for a micro layout I have been planning and wanting to do (the videos are on the thread).

What I really want is to make a 00 Gauge micro layout that is easy to set up and run trains and also to fold up and store away when not in use. So, which length should I go for in choosing flexi-track? I tried using 1st radius curves (or was it 2nd radius curves) to measure and they layout was measured at 30" wide by 44" inches long I was hoping to make it a wee bit shorter and slightly thinner in order for it to become a portable model railway.

 

You should have a look at the Bekra Models (of Newt and Abbott) website.  They have a fantastic layout in the shop with about a 12" radius flexi track curve.  Its a nice radius, 1 yard makes about an 11.5" radius curve and  Metre just about 12 "    These curves of 180 degrees need just one piece of flexi so don't dog leg on joints, it doesn't work with more than 12" and less than 20" on 180  degree curves and you can't stop the join from trying to straighten out.

Obviously you can't get large locos round them but that 47 was growling round and round at a scale 20 mph when I was there last...

If you want curves between 1st radius and 20" then cut the webs between sleepers on set track and ease it out to the required radius and cut rails to length like flexi. I have used set track rails which are stiffer than flexi, with flexi track sleepers to make custom curves on occasion and often use set track mixed in with flexi.  Set track straights look a lot more convincing for dead straight aligned by eye steam era straight track than does flexi which always looks like a bit kinky ( in a bad way,) like the modern post 2010 PW does.

[Il Grifone]

Ideally the rail should be curved so that it will stay in place by itself. Take care with the extreme ends of each rail. Even on fixed radius track the last half-inch or so can be insufficiently curved.