Jump to content
 

Croydon North Street - NSE 3rd Rail 1980s/90s


Pete 75C
 Share

Recommended Posts

I still can't believe how quickly you've built this and to such a high standard. i wish I'd done mine as modules

 

Thanks Russ. Most people advocate 4' x 2' sections for portability, but I dislike baseboard joins and always struggle a little to disguise them, so I find 6' x 2' boards, although not quite as manageable (obviously), seem to work for me. 2 people might be needed to move them, but as long as it all fits in the van, I'm happy.

 

Edit: in the case of North Street, the boards are each 6' x 18".

Edited by Pete 75C
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

By the way, more shopping trolleys/detritus needed in the undergrowth I reckon.

 

Agreed! I think a small order with Ten Commandments is called for soon... As for the walls, gabions were my first thought but then isn't that just wire cages filled with rocks? I think maybe you're right with "crib".

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gabions are steel wire baskets filled with stone, Crib walling can be wither timber or concrete and you will see horizontal slats with soil between they are sometimes planted.

 

Gabion baskets along bottom of cutting

post-19340-0-76840500-1419268464.jpg

 

Crib Wall (Gravity retaining wall)

post-19340-0-72900000-1419268401.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Gary - that's really useful. Hoping it shouldn't be too difficult to replicate... having had brick and concrete slab sections, might as well go for a hat trick of wall types.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Gabions are steel wire baskets filled with stone, Crib walling can be wither timber or concrete and you will see horizontal slats with soil between they are sometimes planted.

 

Gabion baskets along bottom of cutting

attachicon.gifGabion Wall.jpg

 

 

 

Crib Wall (Gravity retaining wall)

attachicon.gifCrib Wall.jpg

Is the bottom one the one at Peterborough east?

It fascinates me and my mate,what happens when the wood rots does it all fall down?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the bottom one the one at Peterborough east?

It fascinates me and my mate,what happens when the wood rots does it all fall down?

Pressure treated has a very long design life. The wood is not working alone it forms part of a system and is holding other material in place

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Note to self: Must not forget putting a bus on a bridge when building a layout myself! :jester:

 

I've never had a problem with what others would call a cliché... I managed to pick up a Britbus London Country Leyland Atlantean from Hattons for £8 (sale still on, btw) instead of 30-odd quid (!) so I might attempt a world first and have two buses on a bridge!

 

Going back to the crib walls, I'm assuming they're a relatively recent thing in the civil engineering world and I'm not sure if too many of them would have been around in 1990(ish) but they do look different enough to make me want to have a go. Wood or concrete? I think concrete. I'll try and dig out some suitable materials today and figure out how to do it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, well that didn't work. Plan B needed for the crib wall. I had a go using some 2mm plant sticks (30cm long). That works out at 6" cross section for the uprights and horizontals. I thought it might look ok as a wooden version of a crib wall seen in one of the pictures above. Frankly, it looked rubbish... I was trying to imagine it sprayed a beigey "treated timber" colour. The little wooden sticks, although square in section, were a bit twisted and bent. That'll teach me to try and make use of something that just happened to be lying around! I think I would prefer it if the crib wall was of concrete construction to match the other blockwork retaining wall sections. What I need is some 2mm square-section Evergreen styrene strip - a job for after Christmas, I think.

The plan for a lighting rig has moved a step closer. I've got hold of 4 smallish spotlights on flexi "swan" necks (thanks for that, you know who you are :good:).

Two per layout board should be about right and I'll make up some MDF fascias to hide the spotlights. Each light has an unusually long cable length which is a bonus! I'm planning to paint the lighting fascias black to match the layout fascias and I'm toying with the idea of getting the local graphics shop to make up a couple of vinyl signs a bit like these... When finished, it should all "dress" the layout quite nicely and make everything a bit more presentable.

 

 

post-17811-0-84799500-1419347793.jpg

post-17811-0-53468600-1419347794.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I'm toying with the idea of getting the local graphics shop to make up a couple of vinyl signs a bit like these...

 

Hi Pete, great minds think alike as that is exactly what I've done! I had them printed up by Prontaprint and stuck to mounting board for £18 all in, and they are about 880mm x 150mm. I'll post a pic later.

Edited by Temeraire
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I really don't see the issue with a bus on a bridge, so long as the bus is the correct type and livery for the area and era the layout portrays. OK, it's probably best pulled up at a stop rather than "static in motion", but the right bus can really define a layout's location. I'm sure there are other places like it, but as an example the famous Bath Road bridge at the west end of Temple Meads has a bus on it or its approaches pretty much all the time, and that goes as much for today as it does for film and video clips of it in the past.

 

But then I'm a busman by profession.... 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Evening Pete

 

Here's a pic of the nameboards I've had made up not great light but I'll try to get another pic in the light tomorrow if you're interested. 

 

post-6922-0-10673200-1419358781.jpg

 

Right bit of dinner and then the pub, won't be an early post in the morning! ;)

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a pic of the nameboards I've had made up...

 

Spot on! That is exactly what I had in mind. If you don't mind, I'll print that out as a 6x4 and show the graphics shop so they know exactly what I'm after. I'm planning to give them a CD or memory stick with some artwork and also the correct font (just in case) but it wouldn't hurt to show them your pic and say... "they need to look like that".

 

Thanks for the link to the model crib wall section, Scott. It's good to know I have an escape plan if the scratchbuilding goes wrong! Having Googled some prototype crib retaining walls, I reckon 2mm styrene strip is probably right but I'm thinking it might look a bit flimsy... maybe this might be a case of slightly overscale looking a bit better?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick question before I put on a stupid sweater and drink beer and eat turkey for two days straight...

 

I've given some thought to the lighting rig(s) and how to incorporate the 4 spotlights... I'm planning two spots per board. Looking at the rough diagram below, does this make sense to anyone that knows about these things? Obviously I want to eliminate shadows but I'm wondering if I've missed anything? If I've got anything glaringly wrong, do let me know, otherwise I think it will be a case of "suck it and see".

Happy Christmas to all. Pete.

 

post-17811-0-82034500-1419418768.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally you find that looking down, rather than along, the layout gives a better result as otherwise you can get "double shadows" from each end of the board's lights which look clearly very wrong.

 

Equi-spaced along the visible scenic section (and not at each end but a way in) will work best.

 

Depending on the bulbs you have, you may find a colour tint with photography but if you can find daylight bulbs of the right shape and fitment  may give a better overall result - but anything has to be better than nothing if you've got a dingey sports hall or that dreadful orange floodlighting often used!

 

"Suck it and see" - particularly as you have clamp-on rather than screw-on fittings - is probably the best option.  Don't forget to take "before and after" photos as well as what looks good to the mk 1 eyeball doesn't always look so good when you put a camera near it.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...