Mainline/ Palitoy Collet Goods

[claggy]

Not sure whether I'm posting this in the right place!

I picked up a couple of good looking OO scale locos at a car boot sale this morning, both very honestly sold as non-runners. Got one of them, a Hornby R52S Jinty running in minutes once I got them home. 

The other, a Mainline Collet Goods 2213 in BR early lined livery, is in great cosmetic condition, but is 'dead as a nail'

Does anyone have the instruction leaflet for this loco so I can open it up & see what's going on inside. Am I right in thinking these have a split chassis? 

Thanks in advance!

Mark

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

They do. Handle gently, as some of the plastic running gear components may be fragile. Getting the body off, try screws at the extreme ends of the underside, including the screw securing the front coupler.

 

Try with power direct to the motor brush covers, to eliminate any poor contact between wheels and motor when investigating the first question: whether the motor is a runner. Quite often the reason for such a model not running initially is dried on lubricant and dirt in the contact path preventing conduction. Remove the keeper plate to clean out and relubricate very lightly if you suspect this. If the motor is clapped, Replica Railways used a compatible 'pod' motor, may still have spares available.

 

The typical assembly schemes may be seen here.

http://www.mainlinerailways.org.uk/Details.htm

[claggy]

Many thanks, have tried applying power direct to the brush covers, then removed keeper plate & lubricated as suggested. Then managed to lose one of the brush springs while reassembling

Tried bodging it, the motor was buzzing a bit by this stage so have ordered new brushes & springs from 'Peter's Spares'.

If that doesn't work will try to get hold of a replacement motor as it's a good looking model. 

 

M

[DCB]

The usual split chassis problem is wheels coming loose on the plastic axles, but in my experience the 2251 is better than most.  Sadly though it sits on pannier size wheels and the front buffer beam and tender are squashed down to compensate and this problem has continued into the later Bachmann version.

Replica have new pod motors on their website but they have strange shop opening hours, weekends only.

The split chassis is a good idea in theory but non insulating oil is essential as any resistance between wheel and chassis which causes heating and softens the plastic axles, I use live frog points and if you run into a point set against the loco then you can get a same side short across the axles, if you do give the loco a few minutes to cool down, DCC and Live frog points absolutely kill split chassis but there is no room for a decoder in a Mainline 2251.  An apparently stupid cure is to fit pick us from the chassis to the backs of the wheels, it sound daft but takes the load if you get a short and has kept my mainline 03 alive for 10 years or more while friends have built fleets of dead split chassis Panniers and the like.

[jcm@gwr]

You could also try adding pick-ups to the tender.

(maybe even bypassing/replacing the original)

 

Jeff

[PetersSpares]

Hi everyone Peter from Peters Spares here, We have just had some of the Mainline Axle and drive Axles into stock they are in our eBay store and on our website under PS codes if you are on our web site either give 'mainline axle' a search or visit the spares section and navigate to Mainline Spares. They are £5.99 per set. Thanks Peter