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Hornby Class 110 DMU Upgrade


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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Just a fairly quick introduction tonight about upgrading the old Hornby Class 110 DMU, using a Bachmann Class 108 unit and some scratchbuilding of parts etc, as well.

 

I actually started this upgrade about this time last year, and started with the two driving power cars - the DMBC and the DMCL. Here's three photo's of how things were looking back then of the power cars. Please note that since then the underframes, bogies etc, have all been painted and weathered. I still have some re-lining to do, and probably one or two other little things as well. But, those two cars are essentially completed.

post-22631-0-31670300-1413410670_thumb.jpg.

post-22631-0-26997600-1413410697_thumb.jpg.

post-22631-0-94395100-1413410715_thumb.jpg.

 

These leave the matter of the trailer second. This is what I have decided to cover in some detail in this topic. You will see me combining a Hornby body onto a modified Bachmann chassis (Class 108, DTCL). The lighting unit is to be re-used as well, since lighting seems to be the way forward on carriages of all kinds these days.

 

First, I think for tonight is getting the two models dissembled. This is fairly easy. On the Hornby 110 TSL, there are four clear plastic clips underneath which need to be released. I used a small flat bladed jewellers screw-driver for this. Once done, and with the body off the chassis, the chassis was placed onto one side - for possible reference for positioning of parts on the Bachmann replacement chassis. Here's a photo' of the various parts:

post-22631-0-72017600-1413411383_thumb.jpg.

I hope that things in the photo' are fairly clear, i.e. the Hornby body!

 

Then, I managed to get the measurements made to get the body to fit the Bachmann chassis. I just simply used an old fashioned ruler! It must have worked, for I managed to get the new chassis to the correct size - especially those 'angled' bufferbeams. Also, I had to cut-off two plastic projections at what was the cab-end of the new chassis. I am not sure just what they are for!

 

Several clips on the sides of the new chassis had to be cut off, along with one at the rear of it - the toilet end. Then, those clips on the glazing of the Hornby body also had to go, since the body would not fit onto the Bachmann chassis with those in place.

 

After that it was time to give the body a test fit onto the new chassis. Here's a photo' with the body loosely attached:

post-22631-0-17025000-1413412124_thumb.jpg.

It seems to fit quite well, and is a relief really! Please note that I have already removed the buffers for work to take place on the bufferbeams, etc,.

 

So, the lighting is next. I reused the Bachmann lighting unit. It turned out to be quite simple and fitted in place very well. Here's a photo' of that lighting unit in place:

post-22631-0-76718600-1413412413_thumb.jpg.

I hope that you can make out that, inspite of the lighting bar only resting on top of the 'prongs', that the lights do indeed work! So the next thing is to glue onto the ceiling of the Hornby body that lighting bar using araldite. I used the quick settting variety, and it seems to hold it in place very well indeed.

 

Then, the Hornby interior was glued into place, cutting it quite heavily at the toilet end to make way for the DCC socket. All was well again thankfully...

 

And so, finally, for now, the buffers. The Class 104 and Class 110 units all had longer buffer shanks, with bracketing and attached to the top of the brackets the lamp-irons. All of this will be done, as it was on the driving power cars. Today, I have managed to the 'extend' the Bachmann buffers, using nothing more than the interior of a Biro! Here's a photo' which, hopefully will show things more clearly:

post-22631-0-82689400-1413413170_thumb.jpg.

You can see in the foreground, hopefully the tube out of the pen - sorry it is a clear one! The tube was cut into four equal lengths. Thankfully, the tubing was a good interference fit onto those Bachmann buffers! The buffers were then araldited into extended recesses in the ends of the new chassis.

 

So, this is as far as I have got today. Next it is time to make those rather tricky brackets and lamp-irons. Then a three-part bufferbeam 'overlay', with the rivet details etc,.

 

I hope that you've found all of this of some interest, and have not got too bored! There is quite a long way to go as yet...

 

Until the next time,

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi, everybody. Well, tonight, it's time to make and fit the brackets to the buffer stocks the BRC&W way. First, using 0.5mm plasticard, the tubing that the extensions to the buffers were made from is used as a sizing tool, so that the holes that are to be made will be the correct diameter. I used a permanent marker, placed against the end of the tube, and then placed the tube vertically down onto the plasticard. This made, in black, the colour of the permanent marker, the 'pattern' for the hole, which was then drilled out, just under-size. The hole was then opened out with a needle file (round one), and then the plasticard was turned over, and the burrs removed from that side. Here's two photo's which illustrate the process:

post-22631-0-50780400-1413488584_thumb.jpg - drilling the hole.

post-22631-0-24074900-1413488610_thumb.jpg - opening it out with the needle file.

 

Then it is time to draw the outline of the bracket which goes from one side of the buffer stock to the other. After that has been done, it can then be cut into two down the middle. See this photo', after it has been cut.

post-22631-0-77869900-1413488809_thumb.jpg.

 

These parts are then glued with runny super glue, one to each side of the stock so that they are in a line with the outermost end of the 'bow-end'. Everything should be in alignment here or there will be mistakes made later on.

 

After all that, there is a 'top' piece of extra bracket to make and fit, this what the support that the lamp-iron is attached to. It is made simply from the same plasticard as before, and is a simple rectangle the length of the brackets which have by now been attached to the buffer stock. The height is 2mm. Here's a photo':

post-22631-0-74175200-1413489737_thumb.jpg - I have picked out the rectangle in yellow.

This then glued in place on the top of the 'bracketed' buffer stock. Make sure that it is level with the bracket already glued in place.

 

Next, and finally for now, is the the 'fillet' which goes along the side of the bracket. This has again to be measured and then cut out from the plasticard. Again, it is really a simple rectangle, but in this case has one end angled equal to the angle of the bufferbeam. Here's a photo' it:

post-22631-0-11701600-1413489262_thumb.jpg.

This is then just simply glued into place along the side of the buffer stock.

 

Here's a photo' of the completed bracketing on one buffer stock:

post-22631-0-28354900-1413489876_thumb.jpg. Please note that the body is,at this stage, only loosely fitted onto the chassis!

 

Thanks for bearing with me on this rather complex bracketing issue, for it is one of the big features of the BRC&W Co, buffers.

 

With plenty still to be done, I just hope that you have not become too bogged down in the small details tonight!

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

 

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You have inspired me to have a look at re-chassising my class 104 set (converted from the Hornby 110 many years ago). I bought a cheap three car 108 from Hattons with this sort of project in mind. Now I have no excuse not to start on it!

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  • RMweb Gold

You have inspired me to have a look at re-chassising my class 104 set (converted from the Hornby 110 many years ago). I bought a cheap three car 108 from Hattons with this sort of project in mind. Now I have no excuse not to start on it!

Hi, SRman. Glad to be of inspiration! I've produced a two car and an NER four car class 104 using this method - just having to substitute Leyland engines inplace of Rolls Royce ones on the driving power cars. As read in one of the DMU books, the class 110 was in many ways an 'up-graded class 104'.

 

Anyway, hope that you are successful in your re-chassising of your class 104 set, and if I can be of any help, feel free to ask or send me a PM.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Just a small update. I've got the brackets on those buffer stocks completed today. Also, the class 108's details between the bogies have all been safely removed. I think that the brake cylinders, etc, will be reused, but most of the rest will be discarded. The replacement details, such as the battery boxes will be scratchbuilt out of plasticard. Here's a side-on photo' of the trailer second and part of the DMCL.

post-22631-0-79453500-1413578204_thumb.jpg.

 

The underframe of the trailer second looks a little bare at the moment!

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Just a note to add tonight, that the LED's at what was the cab-end of the Bachmann chassis. need covering up. I simply used some black plasticine. Also, at this end of the chassis, I decided to make use of the fixing screw arrangement that Bachmann use on the class 108 DMU. So I cut to size, and removed the fittings, of the cab. Then, it is possible to araldite it into place. When set, it is possible to screw the body onto the chassis at this end in the same way as on the class 108 DMU.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. I've managed to get into place some of the underframe details. Some have been removed from the Hornby model. The two battery boxes have proved a bit tricky in that Hornby moulded them too square. I've had to cut them in half and join the two halves together supported by some plasticard to 'thin' them down. The next problem area is the vacuum brake gear. The position of the cylinders and vees looks suspect on the Hornby underframe. I'm currently investigating this.

 

Anyway, here's a quick photo'.

post-22631-0-66921100-1413842423_thumb.jpg.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. I've managed to sort out the brake gear, and have manged to get the bogies corrected to the different suspension system as used on these trailer seconds. I hope to be able to post some photo's tomorrow.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Well I've completed a little more on the trailer second. The bogie modification, which the prototypes had, was a case, on the model, of cutting back the springing detail between the leaf springing, and then from  0.5mm plasticard, adding the replacement details. On the prototype, hydraulic dampers and rubber suspension was used, in place of the more usual leaf springs. Apparently this gave a very stable ride at speeds of up to 75m.p.h.

The modifications to the model can be seen in this photo': (The power cars had the traditional bogie suspension systems, and therefore the models of these bogies remains unaltered).

post-22631-0-25557800-1414009815_thumb.jpg.

 

And here's another photo' of the TSL to hopefully give an idea of how far it has come to date:

post-22631-0-80383100-1414010171_thumb.jpg.

Now, here's a photo' of the complete unit from the DMCL, which will hopefully give some idea of what the three car set will look like upon completion.

post-22631-0-08491800-1414010060_thumb.jpg.

 

 

There is still plenty to be done, including fitting seperate toilet water filler pipes, probably a repaint, and some small detailing.

 

Hoping that you've found developments so far of some interest, and I will be back with further updates in due course.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. I've got the detailing completed on the buffer beams and a bit more on the underframe. Getting closer to painting things on the trailer second.

 

I believe that the seats in these NER TSL's were given a green moquette, whilst the LMR TSL's had the maroon moquette on the seats. I will make sure about this before painting the seats. The vestibule partitions, on the NER vehicles apparently had a light green formica, whilst those on the LMR had yellows and reds.

 

Anyway, that's about it for today.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. I've replaced the toilet water filler pipe mouldings with brass wire replacements. This involved much cursing - there are plenty of angles and curves to get right! Then holes have to be drilled in the right places, and the wire replacements fitted into the holes. I think that I've managed to get there in the end - it makes a difference from moulded detail!

 

Then, after much looking at photo's, the metal frames around the windows just did not seem quite right. So, what can be done to improve things? Well I've decided to try painting the inside edges of the window openings in the green body colour to see how the 'metal' window frames look afterwards. I will let the photo' speak for it's self. I feel quite pleased with the outcome. Anyway here's a photo' of the trailer second at this stage - please note that the window glazing has, of necessity, been carefully removed.

post-22631-0-91350500-1414363750_thumb.jpg.

 

Until next time,

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. I've got some more completed on the class 110 TSL. The underframe detailing is complete and currently painted black prior to weathering. The body has the windows completed and glued into place - I hope that I've managed to 'thin' the sides by painting the inner edges of the window openings. The seats have been repainted in green. The sides are to be given attention to the paintwork, with new lining-out. The roof will be repainted and weathered. Here's a couple of photo's:

post-22631-0-75439500-1414621597_thumb.jpg.

post-22631-0-48529200-1414621644_thumb.jpg.

Please note that I've made and fitted the body lifting brackets above the bogies. Plasticard was used - 40thou.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Just a small update tonight to say that I'm currently working on re-lining out all three cars of the unit. It is taking just that little bit longer than I had thought it would. I'm using HMRS press-fix transfers, but measuring, cutting, putting them in place, soaking them in water to remove the backing paper, etc, is all very time consuming. I will post some photo's when this is completed. Finally there is the weathering to do as well. But I think that the project is nearly completed - well as nearly completed as a project like this ever can be!

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Well the trailer second of the three-car 110 'Calder Valley' DMU has now been completed. I just simply glued into place the lamp irons, on top of the 'supports', re-painted and weathered the roof, and weathered the chassis, completed the re-lining, and that is it really. So, a final couple of photo's, one of the TSL, and one of the DMBC, which I realise I haven't shown a photo' of before!

 

The trailer second:

post-22631-0-28101400-1415221440_thumb.jpg

 

The Driving Motor Brake Composite:

post-22631-0-86327800-1415221507_thumb.jpg

 

Thank you for viewing this topic, and I hope that it may be of some help to someone.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi, Mersey507003. I have to refer you to post 1 of this topic. Unfortunately you do have to cut ends of the class 108 chassis to fit the Hornby class 110 body. Certainly the effort is worth it for you do indeed get a much improved performance. If you would like the exact dimensions, then I can let you have them. Please let me know. Of course it will depend if you feel able to do chassis re-working.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi, Mersey507003. Here we go with some dimensions. These are all taken from the 'inside' of the Hornby body, so that the 'cut to length' Bachmann chassis is technically an 'interference' fit within the Hornby body - appyling to all three types of car.

Connecting gangway - the part of the end where the gangway protrudes from in the middle - has an internal length of 57' 0''.

The solebars are 55' 0''. (Please note difference in the two lengths here, for there is, of course, a marked bow-end to all of the BRC&W DMU 57' 0'' stock).

The internal width is 8' 3''.

More for those bow ends is that, being of 'three panels' the dimensions of these are needed as well and are:

The two 'outer panels' = 2' 7''

The panel which has the gangway on it = 3' 1''.

 

To cut the ends on the Bachmann power chassis, I used a Hacksaw, just cutting slowly and carefully. On the trailer car chassis, a Razor saw was found more than adequate - again, though, slow and careful with the cutting. Indeed, steady hands are needed as well!

 

You should end up with the ends without buffer beams and with the characteristic BRC&W bow-endedness, i.e. 'angled' outer panels, with the gangway panel running straight across the middle of the end. This chassis should now fit nicely within the Hornby body, if all has gone well.

Replacement buffer beams can be quite easily made, indeed the Bachmann chassis will now have the 'angled' buffer beam type ends to the chassis, and just overlays can be made and fitted.

 

I hope that this will be enough to help to get you started and that you can enjoy success with your re-chassising of the Hornby class 110, and of course all of this does indeed very equally apply to the class 104 as well - I have produced one 4-car and one 2-car 104 using this very re-chassising.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

 

PS. If you require further help or clarification of anything here, then please do let me know, and I will do what I can to help.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi. Just to quickly add that the bogies need to be removed, along with the PCB and the block which contains the motor in it, before commencing to do any cutting work on the power car chassis. This is just to simply ensure that there is no metal swarf getting anywhere that it is not wanted.

 

All the best,

 

Market65.

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  • 9 months later...

I wish that I'd studied your picture of the TSL seating arrangement in post #1 more carefully, as only after making a start on painting did I realise that the centre area seats need to be turned around, as well of course as dumping the first class ones for some seconds from another moulding. But there you go!

 

The window frames look infinitely better on the green variants for being picked out in silver as you have done, and I'm slowly getting there with a fine indelible marker pen.

 

Inspiring stuff and thanks for posting.

 

John.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi, TRAILRAGE, and John Tomlinson. Thanks for your comments. It was not only the class 110 TSL's which had the centre saloon seats 'turned round' but also the class 104 TSL's and class 104 TBSL's as well (which is how I've modelled them on my Class 104 TSL and TBSL).

 

Withe best regards,

 

Market65.

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