mikesndbs Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Hi chaps Is there a simple, easy answer to represent SR third rail? I'd like to add something but am not sure where to start. Thought about using maybe N gauge rail but it's to shiny. Keeping it dead simple are there any tips? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I don't think you can better the Peco insulators (IL-120) and Code 60 rail (IL-1) if you want a solder-free simple solution. I usually chemically blacken the rail before sliding the chairs on. Conductor rail usually takes on an oily black look and shouldn't be the same colour as the track. You're absolutely right, shiny 3rd rail is wrong. If you want to paint the conductor rail chairs, do it before you cut them from the sprue. Drill a hole every 4th sleeper (3rd sleeper close to pointwork and conductor rail breaks). Slide on enough insulators and then roughly space them. Try laying the insulators on their sides on a flat surface and then pushing the end of the conductor rail into them. A few will ping off at light speed never to be seen again! A little drop of glue in each sleeper hole should hold everything in place. If you've already painted the conductor rail, a light spray of track colour will tone everything down, especially the chairs which would never appear brilliant white unless newly installed. Edit: Don't forget to slightly bend over the end of each conductor rail to create a "ramp" before fixing in place. On the prototype, the ends of a length of conductor rail are sometimes given a coat of whitewash. Conductor rail on Croydon North Street: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Storey Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I agree with Pete, as that's how I do it. But I have to say that the way it has been done on Minsterley (see specific thread for that) looks quite impressive. The builder has stuck his third rail (again, Peco code 60) directly to the ends of the sleepers, because when he tried using the insulator pots, making the rail rise to a scale level, some of his third rail stock's shoegear snagged on it. I have heard this has been a problem elsewhere, but it has not happened to me (yet!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Good point - I have heard that clearance can be an issue with the Peco chairs. Like Mike, it hasn't happened to me... even an old Lima Class 73 glides over ok, the only issue with that is the Lima pizza-cutter flanges bump over the running rail chairs! I keep meaning to re-wheel it but Dapol's new Class 73 would appear to be close so I'll probably never bother. Included with the Peco chairs are some little collars designed to be used to raise the height of the conductor rail when using Code 100. Bin 'em... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Thanks for the replies I'll look into them today. What should I use to blacken the rail? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Carr's Metal Black for nickel silver works well. Rather than painting it on, I made up a tube from some leftover plastic plumbing pipe, sealed at one end. Put half a dozen lengths of the rail in the tube, add the Metal Black, seal the other end and then agitate for a couple of minutes. Pour the Metal black back into the container and let the rail air-dry on some kichen roll. Finally give the rail a rinse with clean water and allow to air-dry again. You can paint the Metal Black onto the rail but I find immersion gives better coverage. The only reason I chemically blacken the rail is to stop it chipping and flaking. If you paint the 3rd rail, you'll lose some of the paint as you slide the chairs on and it spoils the effect a bit! http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engineering_Menu_Carrs_Metalblacking_Products_289.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 OK great, just looking for a place where I can buy all three items in one go. Cheers all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Storey Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 West Sussex? You must be not far from Gaugemaster at Ford? Try them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Thanks, yes not too far, rang them and they don't have any of the Peco stuff in and don't stock the Carr's stuff. Got another company looking into it for me be nice to get a bit if duice rail down Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Storey Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Thanks, yes not too far, rang them and they don't have any of the Peco stuff in and don't stock the Carr's stuff. Got another company looking into it for me be nice to get a bit if duice rail down OK, but I have always had to order Code 60 rail and insulators in advance, then go and collect them - very few retailers routinely stock that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold kipford Posted November 30, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 30, 2014 The Model Shop,New Road Portsmouth, normally keeps the 3rd rail chairs and the conductor rail. Give them a ring on 02392653100 to check. Also to position the rail correctly read the info on this site it the 3rd rail bible. I used it to set out the conductor rails on Brighton East. If you have trouble getting Carrs go to your local gun shop and buy a jar on gun blue. It does basically the same job. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/russelliott/3rd-4th.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 For ease of track cleaning, as well as the previously mentioned clearance problems with out of gauge models, I countersink the Peco 'pots' into the sleepers so that the third (and fourth) rail is nearly flush with the running rail tops. It's not true to scale but it is practical for a working model railway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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