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mikesndbs

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    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_ydLRRJYTbXzjl_HSHiEUg

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    West Sussex UK
  • Interests
    You will be surprised to know 'Model Trains' :)

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  1. Right, fixed after much swearing 🤬 🤬 Discovered the pivot on the back of the piston rod at the crosshead end was snagging, so started easing it. Bloody thing popped off, or rather the rod popped off. Put it back on and seemed solid, click gone. Super glued a tiny metal washer over the rivet head just to make sure the rod doesn't come off again, steps brake rigging finger marks later all seems well
  2. Ah good point, she is a wee bit uneven. Which bit is catching the slide bar do you think?
  3. Hi, been at this ages. When the piston rod is fully forward the piston arm gives a little upward jolt causing a very annoying click. What could I try to stop it?
  4. Hi guys X9682 seems not to be available, what are the options to replace this cable, was wondering about adding a blackened wire but fixing it looks hard going? Thanks
  5. Click the picture to play the video! Welcome to part 3 and the continuing story of restoring my Terrier that dad made for me back in 1976. In this penultimate video we look at the detailed steps I had to undertake to get 2636 back in running order. Cutting broaches, press fit bearings, brass soldering and press fix transfers and paint are all used. Will she be ok? Watch now to find out.
  6. Hi guys So far so good. I'm pleased to report that as the broaches worked they did indeed make the hole perfectly round again :) Bearing bushed were a firm push fit and have been soldered in place (after checking alignment of course) as suggested. Used a high temp epoxy to fix the crank pins in place, dad had used normal epoxy after all. And when it comes to resoldering the nuts on, I intend to use low melt point solder so the glue should be safe. If this all works it will be time for the livery sort out. Here are some photos from today's activities.
  7. HI and thanks for the input. Yes this is my first big modelling step. The axel holes are slightly elliptical on the centre driven wheels. Since fitting the new axels Richard kindly sent me with the bushes, it's clear I won't need to bush the outer wheels as they are now snug. I've begun using the broach as suggested above, going very carefully indeed. Given what's been said above I plan to uses one of the spare axles placed in the new bearings to try and ensure alignment. Hope this works, it's scary stuff lol
  8. So just starting to try and open up the bearings ready for the bushes using the suggested broaches. I've selected the smallest that fits and have twisted it around. Quite hard going. Will it really self centre?
  9. Hi, changed the axles wow what a difference. Got high temperature epoxy to fix crank pins. Still looking for help with transfers. Thanks
  10. Hi all, fixing the crank pins and finding replacement transfers. I'm having a go at fixing the crank pins using thread locker, not sure how it will do as there are no threads? Didn't work As you saw the number on one side and the Southern logo are very poor. I've been searching through dad's stock of transfers (of which there are 1000s) but most seem to be the wrong ones with loads of Maunsell/LSWR types, these seem too dark? I found these very old ones at the bottom that look more like the colour but there are no 'Southern' s The best ones I have found are these, however there is not enough '2's but the 'Southern' fits perfectly. I've also found some Carrs Transfix in dad's tool box, nearly a full bottle. Should I go with these gold ones?
  11. It's ok I marked the rods and only took off the hot side wheels so at worse front and back might be swapped.
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