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A small package arrived yesterday. When I had retrieved it from the dog (!) it was found to be the wheel sets for 4136 from Markits. Fortunately without teeth marks! These have been been trial fitted and look very good to me. Hopefully I can pick up the last bits and pieces at Expo EM next week so I won't have to resist the 'rattle can' much longer! 

 

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The 'summer' weather we had at the weekend gave me the excuse to have a blitz on 4136.

 

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Unless eagle eyed RMwebers spot anything else, drain cocks, sandpipes, couplings, injectors, lamps, fire irons and coal should see it finished. Not much if you say it quickly! It's not 100% but I think it has the 'look' - which is what I'm after.

 

A small but important thing which I'm pleased with is the smokebox number plate. To me so many etched ones don't look right. I used the transfers from Fox mounted a piece of 0.010 plastcard which was first painted black. This is fixed to the smokebox door with a tiny blob of PVA. This was a heck of a fiddle especially, after reference to photos, I realised the transfers had to be trimmed as well. 

 

I've learned a lot from doing this and so there shouldn't be so many 'if onlys' on the next hack job - a clue to which is the Hawksworth tender behind 4136...  However, I'm determined to finish the Bachman Warship and Scottish 37 'quickies' before I start anything else!

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Much has been learned since the start of this topic nearly a year ago and I just haven't been getting what I wanted from the project. Some important lessons being that the board was too wide to easily carry it outside for photography and that it's location in my 'man cave' meant that the bridge and it's shadows prevented varying the indoor photo angles  by much. 

 

Over the summer there was much distractiion - including a foray into 1/35 'soft skin' military vehicles(!) -  but whilst away on holiday in Cornwall I determined what must be done. Out with the saw! The results are below. I've salvaged the bridges for another day but the rest has gone.

 

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I hope this should enable me to more of the shots remenicsent of the roofless Exeter shed that I'm aiming for. I'm waiting for some scenic materials to arrive and then we'll see...

 

This plan leaves me nowhere to display/photograph something with a train behind it but, lo and behold, whilst enjoying a pint of Doombar in the Fisherman's Arms at Golant the answer was there in front of me. So very soon a section of Golant causeway and the Pill will appear, hopefully with power attached so that I can at least have bit of a play. More on that soon - I hope!

 

 

 

 

 

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The good lady of the house is away visiting her brother for a few days so I am putting my time 'off the leash' to good use by making a start on my Golant scene. - Yes, I know, two things on the go now and I can't even finish the first one...!

 

The kitchen has been put to good use assembling the baseboard.

 

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Whilst I am quite happy making things from metal on a lathe or milling machine I have the ability to shatter a piece of timber into a million splinters just by looking at it, so I opted to buy a laser cut baseboard kit from Tim Horn.  http://www.timhorn.co.uk As can be seen I have put the kitchen worktop to good use! The service from Tim was excellent. Delivery in 48 hours and the board went together like a dream.

 

The cost is a bit greater than traditional methods but by the time you factor in the aggro finding a flat piece of ply and straight 2 X 1 at your local DIY nightmare store plus the fuel and time, to me at least, it makes much more sense.

 

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I was soon playing with some stock to lay out the curve to see what looked right. (Yes I know Silver Bullets didnt work through Golant!) Of course the railway runs on a causeway and I'm hoping to make a start on this tomorrow while the going is good - formers already cut. If you know Golant my diorama will be of the section by the bridge and Castle Dore Rowing Club. However, I'm placing a small boatyard in the same spot using a more traditional building. The Scenecraft 'Scripps Garage' will have it's roof replaced by something more 'Cornish' to become 'Castle Dore Slipway and Chandlery'! 

 

I have christened the project 'Golnans' which I believe is Golant in Cornish so it's not actually Golant - Rule 1 and all that. This time power will be connected to the project so that my Bachmann auto trailer and 14XX can shuffle about.

 

Good heavens it may even turn into layout!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A couple of quick snaps of today's progress on supports for the causeway. The side girders for the bridge are left over from a previous project. I think they are from a kit of American origin but they are about the right length and make a nice start. I cut the support at the left hand end of the bridge a little to short and didn't notice until it was stuck fast so I will need to make a small extension to let in.

 

I hope to cut the track bases and one or two other components on the bandsaw at work during the lunch break tomorrow so hopefully I can get these put in during the evening. 

 

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Below is a photo taken last month looking from the same spot as the picture above. I wish I had room to do the whole causeway, maybe with an Alan Butler scan of me on the terrace of The Fisherman's Arms... ;)

 

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After a good burst of activity for a few days 'Golnans' is sitting on it's rack in my den. The good lady is back from Ireland tonight so it's been a big tidy up job! :)

 

Tim Horn's baseboard construction is really light and it's going to make carrying the thing around to work on and photograph much easier. I couldn't resist very quickly posing a train on the bridge for a phone snap so we have 'Western Campaigner' on what looks like, judging by the coaches, an enthusiasts special from Scotland. - Seems appropriate with the Colin McRae rally cars in the case above ;) The bridge girder is just blu-tacked to a piece of scrap ply.

 

Progress is likely to slow a little now but I think I'll be concentrating on the bridge and and the area where the boatyard is to be. Looking at Google the real life rowing club area seems to be the edge of the land before the railway goes onto the causeway so it seems logical to get all this done before the track goes down.

 

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This is only a tiny project but I feel much more comfortable basing it on somewhere real - even though not an exact copy - rather than trying to invent something. Just my feelings not any sort of opinion.

 

Now, does anyone have a good method for modelling seaweed? I'm going to need a lot as the tide is going to be out...

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The results of some hacking and bodging on bridge piers over the weekend. Next is Milliput in the gaps that shouldn't be there and then find some way of reducing the exagerration of the stone courses, maybe a wash over with polyfilla and PVA..?

 

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The real bridge at Golant is a patchwork of repairs on the causway side.

 

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Wash over with diluted Polyfilla, not TOO runny, with a some grey, or little black, poster paint in it. Once dry, scrub up with old toothbrush working across the stones, not along the courses, as best you can, aiming to polish any on the stone surfaces off, but leave that between stones.

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Wash over with diluted Polyfilla, not TOO runny, with a some grey, or little black, poster paint in it. Once dry, scrub up with old toothbrush working across the stones, not along the courses, as best you can, aiming to polish any on the stone surfaces off, but leave that between stones.

 

Thanks Jeff, I'll try that. The piers are just primed at the moment so hopefully that will give the polyfilla a key.

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Two views of this weekend's progress. The bridge piers in primer, boat yard 'foundations' done and a start made on the causeway. I must be getting somewhere because the good lady of the house - who has as much interest in models as I do in the endless cookery programmes on TV - said last night "We've been there haven't we...". That counts as praise indeed!

 

High on the list of things to do next is the Polyfilla treatment of the stonework and deal with the sides of the slipway and retaining wall. I've already tried rubbing Milliput into the courses and while it worked to an extent it's not the easiest thing to do. However, Milliput was useful for mimicking the concrete repairs that have been carried out on the real thing.

 

The Scenecraft building is just placed there for the photo. I hope to try covering the roof with York Modelmaking's Cornish slates. Ironically there is a building at the real location with exactly the same 'diamond' roof tiles as Bachmann's model but as far as I know there aren't local and I want to keep to the typical. 

 

One thing I have to keep telling myself is that Golant is very tidal and at really high tides there is only a foot or two of space under the bridge. The slipway looks odd to me but it's a similar slope to that next to the rowing club at the real location. Most of it would be under water when in use. My idea is to have the tide almost out.

 

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I've been carrying on with work on the bridge as and when, plus the retaining walls for the slipway area. Stonework has come from a variety of sources just as the real thing seems to have been. Pieces of abutment from the Wills occupation bridge, Wills 'course stonework', a scrap of Slaters sheet plus a first go at scribed Milliput, have all been tried.

 

As I've mentioned previously this is not intended to be a faithful replica of Golant, more an impression but there is nothing like reference to the real thing.

 

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This is the scribed Milliput before painting. The scribing was done before it went off, about and hour after covering the plasticard sheet. I found it useful to soften the edges of the scribe lines with water to try and take away some of the sharp edges. On the slipway section I've tried to create an impression of roughly shuttered concrete and the stone blockwork is loosely based on the road edges at Golant.

 

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Painted and in place.

 

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This is the north bridge pier. Model and inspiration. Tyres from a very old Airfix kit and the poles warning of the concrete edge are bits of welding rod.

 

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I'm pretty much a novice at this kind of thing and I've tried all manner of products on the masonry. My armoury consists of acrylics from the local art shop, the usual model paints, Polyfilla, Tamiya texture paint, Lifecolor Tensocrom washes,  Halfords car spray, all sorts. I've found some of the military modelling websites very helpful for techniques to try.

 

I'll be pressing on with more experiments with the Tamiya texture paint. It can be dilluted with water both on and off the job and coloured with acrylics. I used it on the concrete repair 'bodges' on the bridge, pre-shading some areas with a dark grey, and I'm quite pleased with the result. When first brushed on it looks awful but overnight it levels to a realistic finish. Shop around if you want to try this product, prices vary considerably.

 

Another Tensocrom product I tried was the 'Lichen and Moss' set. This is something else that looks better when it's dried and I used it for a first attempt at seaweed. 

 

Something i find takes a lot of thinking about is colour. Reference photos have different colours according to weather and time of day, computer screens vary. Even though I have a daylight work lamp there is still a variation when the part sits on the model. Colours always look different on a small scale. I think I'm getting paranoid! :)

 

More another day, I'm about to go on Christmas tree pine needle hoovering duty!

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It's been a while since the last post but some sparodic progress has been made on the river bed or pill and a first 'fix' on the embankment grass next to the boat yard.

 

The 'mud' is a concoction of Tamiya texture paint and various scatters and other bits and pieces including some real soil. After it had dried I dripped dirty painbrush water on it and just allowed it to do it's own thing, that has certainly taken away some of the evenness I was getting by doing it with a brush. When I was doing this there were some quite useful looking puddles - if only they could have stayed! I feel some of the debris is a bit overscale but I'll leave it for now and pick off the bits I don't like later. 

 

The grass is part of a mat from Hedgerow Scenics (I think) which has been dunked in weak acyrilic, twisted, pulled and generally abused. I think it makes a good base but needs some different textures adding.

 

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One think I am stuck on is the stonework for the causeway. I just cannot find or make anything to represent the vertical courses of small stonework which are used at Golant. I've also seen them on some harbour walls. I want to try to do at least a short section as it's quite characteristic  but would rather leave it altogether rather than have a bodge. Any thoughts?

 

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It's been a while since the last post but some sparodic progress has been made on the river bed or pill and a first 'fix' on the embankment grass next to the boat yard.

 

The 'mud' is a concoction of Tamiya texture paint and various scatters and other bits and pieces including some real soil. After it had dried I dripped dirty painbrush water on it and just allowed it to do it's own thing, that has certainly taken away some of the evenness I was getting by doing it with a brush. When I was doing this there were some quite useful looking puddles - if only they could have stayed! I feel some of the debris is a bit overscale but I'll leave it for now and pick off the bits I don't like later. 

 

The grass is part of a mat from Hedgerow Scenics (I think) which has been dunked in weak acyrilic, twisted, pulled and generally abused. I think it makes a good base but needs some different textures adding.

 

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One think I am stuck on is the stonework for the causeway. I just cannot find or make anything to represent the vertical courses of small stonework which are used at Golant. I've also seen them on some harbour walls. I want to try to do at least a short section as it's quite characteristic  but would rather leave it altogether rather than have a bodge. Any thoughts?

 

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Looking at the photo of the causeway stonework, you could try broken up bits of dried pasta - spaghetti or one of the flat ones - and then glue into the vertical alignment required. By the time you have let the glue come through in places, sprayed it and weathered it, you might have a result. Try a small section. I also noticed your earlier point about possible seaweed, and I think someone once did something pulling apart roll-your-own tobacco and laying it across the mud, which gives the colour and texture (of sorts! You can always paint it with diluted acrylic browns and greens to vary it). Your mud will look good with a going over with various coatings of varnish. I use picture varnish from an art shop (for varnishing oil paintings etc) as it has no bubbles suspended in it, as you would get in, say, Ronseal. If it's too shiny in places, knock it back with another skim of your paint. It's worth painting areas you want "wet" a darker tone or two as the wet mud will be darker than that where the beach is drying out faster. It's the same principle as when you want a puddle on tarmac - paint that bit of the road darker.

I like what you are doing. Good luck.

 

aac

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Many thanks for the encouraging comments. I just dabble with my projects as the mood takes me - it would take me a lifetime to build a layout!

 

The mud has been a challenge but I'm reasonably happy with the results. As aac suggested I still need to make the 'damp' areas darker. The picture varnish sounds a good tip. I'd originally planned to use one of the proprietary products but the prices are a bit much if you need a lot. Tobacco for seaweed...  Now there's an idea. I've never bought a tobacco product in my life but I can see how it might work!

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As usual time is at a premium but I think I've made progress on the seaweed front. I could see the thinking behind the tobacco theory from aac but began to wonder about the cost.

 

But the idea would not go away... What might look similar? Then a light came on. So, currently I'm chopping up a bag of nuetral coloured lichen. Time consuming but it smells nice! I'll give this a trial go at the weekend and report back.

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I've finally got round to getting the seaweed down. Chopped up lichen fixed with PVA and coloured with very thin acrylic.

 

To do the chopping I put the lichen in an old ice cream tub and hacked away with scissors. I found it best to squash it into the PVA - messy!

 

In all honestly it's bit overscale but I'm reasonably pleased for  a first go. 

 

Testing the bridge is a distracting interloper on holiday from the opposite end of the country... I'd better get some track down I guess!

 

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