Selling a car privately

[2ManySpams]

Evening all

 

Some of you may know I'm changing jobs soon and the new job comes with a car. This means it's not worth the cost keeping my current car.

 

The original idea was to trade in my car and the wife's banger and get her something newer. We'll only get scrap for the wife's car so no loss their but I'd like to try and maximise what we get for mine. The garages we've been too have offered between ??2k and ??2.3k for it which doesn't seem much so I'm thinking of having a go at selling the car privately.

 

I've never done this before so do you guys have any tips or advice on:

1. Making sure the buyer actually pays for the car - no bouncing cheques etc

2. Giving people test drives when they are not insured to drive my car - how do i stand if they crunch it!

3. The best places to advertise - is eBay any good, or is autotrader / a local paper better?

 

If it helps the car is a 51 plate BMW (M)sports tourer which has done 112k miles and has around 4 months left on MOT and Tax.

 

Any help appreciated.

[spamcan61]

A fairly long article from my usual car site, including advice on where to sell,insurance risks etc.:-

 

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/buy_sell/selling/index.htm

[2ManySpams]

A fairly long article from my usual car site, including advice on where to sell,insurance risks etc.:-

 

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/buy_sell/selling/index.htm

 

Smashing advice in the article thanks. The test drive / insurance thing still bothers me though...

[PMP]

Smashing advice in the article thanks. The test drive / insurance thing still bothers me though...

 

autotrader has worked for me as a seller, it will also give you a good guide price for similar vehicles to price yours at, and what offers to expect.

 

Regarding the test drive, at the very least insist on the punter having third party insurance, and a license and providing evidence of it, they will probably contact by phone so tell them to bring them along. If they 'forget' them then be very circumspect in handing over the keys and or any documentation. Go with them on the test drive. As far as payment goes I've done cash deals in the past, but instant transfer/paypal should work for you. Don't release the car until the funds have cleared into your account, by whatever payment method. One thing some motorcyclists are doing is photographing the punters, (with their permission). If its a genuine buyer they won't mind, if they aren't, then the 'old bill' have a mugshot to work on.

 

When you sell it write a receipt

Sold as seen date time year

Test driven date time year

One copy each, signed by both parties, then if it goes pop 100yards down the road, you have documentary evidence they accepted it in the condition you sold it. We sold one car a long time ago, to a neighbour. The car was an utter dog, and the neighbour who'd seen the sale sign asked me what it was like. As he was a neighbour I told him the full story, that it was on its last legs and I wouldn't sell it to anyone I knew, then I went to work. That evening the neighbour returned with cash and bought it from the wife, who wasn't aware of the chat I'd had with him. A week later they found out just how bad the car was when they were working on it, and came round for their money back or some of it. They were advised that 'rumpy pumpy' was available in far off lands. Its rare that you'll get a chancer or muppet, but they are around. If you have any wariness about a punter, don't forget, you don't have to sell it to them, you're always waiting for another bloke who rang earlier, to call back.

 

Photos

Find a 'nice' location and clean the car before shooting it. A nice location can be found anywhere, this for example is the entrance to a church, they normally have well kept access. try and get the sun behind you, and don't get your shadow/reflection in the picture if you can help it. Make sure its in focus, a picture speaks a thousand words, a good pic will get you early interest, and if its different from others, 'nice' it will stand out. This pic shows damage, but you'll need a second look to see it. If the cars in a tatty environment, it says the cars tatty.

 

A simple inside shot is good, clean the dash of dust and sweet wrappers parking ticket slips etc etc. With a beemer perhaps include things like the sides of the seats where they can split and wear when people get in and out. If you have any wear and tear that you know of get it costed beforehand so you know whats a reasonable amount to drop if asked. If its not very much money get it fixed beforehand.

 

 

Looks nice doesn't it? It was an absolute turkey though and I got a full refund ... B)

[2ManySpams]

autotrader has worked for me as a seller, it will also give you a good guide price for similar vehicles to price yours at, and what offers to expect.

 

Regarding the test drive, at the very least insist on the punter having third party insurance, and a license and providing evidence of it, they will probably contact by phone so tell them to bring them along. If they 'forget' them then be very circumspect in handing over the keys and or any documentation. Go with them on the test drive. As far as payment goes I've done cash deals in the past, but instant transfer/paypal should work for you. Don't release the car until the funds have cleared into your account, by whatever payment method. One thing some motorcyclists are doing is photographing the punters, (with their permission). If its a genuine buyer they won't mind, if they aren't, then the 'old bill' have a mugshot to work on.

 

When you sell it write a receipt

Sold as seen date time year

Test driven date time year

One copy each, signed by both parties, then if it goes pop 100yards down the road, you have documentary evidence they accepted it in the condition you sold it. We sold one car a long time ago, to a neighbour. The ca

r was an utter dog, and the neighbour who'd seen the sale sign asked me what it was like. As he was a neighbour I told him the full story, that it was on its last legs and I wouldn't sell it to anyone I knew, then I went to work. That evening the neighbour returned with cash and bought it from the wife, who wasn't aware of the chat I'd had with him. A week later they found out just how bad the car was when they were working on it, and came round for their money back or some of it. They were advised that 'rumpy pumpy' was available in far off lands. Its rare that you'll get a chancer or muppet, but they are around. If you have any wariness about a punter, don't forget, you don't have to sell it to them, you're always waiting for another bloke who rang earlier, to call back.

 

Photos

Find a 'nice' location and clean the car before shooting it. A nice location can be found anywhere, this for example is the entrance to a church, they normally have well kept access. try and get the sun behind you, and don't get your shadow/reflection in the picture if you can help it. Make sure its in focus, a picture speaks a thousand words, a good pic will get you early interest, and if its different from others, 'nice' it will stand out. This pic shows damage, but you'll need a second look to see it. If the cars in a tatty environment, it says the cars tatty.

 

A simple inside shot is good, clean the dash of dust and sweet wrappers parking ticket slips etc etc. With a beemer perhaps include things like the sides of the seats where they can split and wear when people get in and out. If you have any wear and tear that you know of get it costed beforehand so you know whats a reasonable amount to drop if asked. If its not very much money get it fixed beforehand.

 

 

Looks nice doesn't it? It was an absolute turkey though and I got a full refund ... B)

 

 

Many thanks for taking the time to write up your advice and experiences - it's good to hear food someone who has been there and done it.

 

At the moment i'm torn between autotrader and eBay. Think i'll give autotrader a go first though. Either way the plan is to give the car a good clean and take some good photos on the next sunny day.

[Pugsley]

I sold a Land Rover earlier in the year through ebay and had no problems, I just made sure I was 100% accurate in the description of the vehicle (for spares only) and included pictures that truly reflected the condition of it (seen better days).

 

Buyer turned up with cash, job done!.

[Guest stuartp]

A mate sold my old Citroen through Ebay. Again, accurate description (clean and tidy but cylinder head gasket gone), plenty of nice pics and cash on collection. Sold as seen - no test drives, no tyre kicking, no haggling, hand over what you bid for it or clear off and I'll re-list it (they tried to talk the price down 50 quid on the day). I got more than scrap value for it which suited me.

 

Make sure you take your bit of the log book though, and make sure you fill it in and send it to DVLA. That way you know it's been done. I've had speeding tickets for write-offs before.

[Jonboy]

I listed my first one on my local Gumtree.com as spares or repair. I got what I wanted for it (having marked it up to a bit to start with....) within 24 hours. Gumtree is free to list on with several photo's.

[2ManySpams]

Continued thanks to everyone

[EddScott]

I've bought and sold via Ebay and Pistonheads. Don't use Autotrader after trying to sell one car and having those canvessers hassling every 10 minutes - even when I said no canvessers.

 

With regards to insurance, if you are insured fully comp and they are insured fully comp and over 25 - MOST insurers will accept a claim under 3rd party only. You are very unlikely to be covered fully comp and some may still refuse a claim. Better off driving it for them as you would normally and let them listen to the car and how it performs. If they don't like it - well tough.

 

Only take cash of bankers draft - I wouldn't accept cheques unless they are prepared to wait for it to clear. I personally wouldn't accept a paypal payment for a car - although I did pay for a car using paypal due to time constraints (cost me ??50!!)

 

What engine is it and what colour - I asusme its an E46 3 Series. is it a true Sport or an SE with bits added? Makes a big difference to price.

[spamcan61]

I'd avoid Paypal if at all possible,there's been more than one tale of woe over at Honestjohn where somone has sold a car via Paypal, the buyer has filed a dispute via Paypal over some spurious 'fault' and there's been no end of hassle.

 

The quickest /easiest route is probably webuyanycar and similar companies, they'll probably only pay around trade-in value but at least you don't have to deal with tyre kickers and canvassers.

[spamcan61]

I've bought and sold via Ebay and Pistonheads.

 

With regards to insurance, if you are insured fully comp and they are insured fully comp and over 25 - MOST insurers will accept a claim under 3rd party only.

 

I think you are saying that the buyer may be covered on their policy under the 'driving other cars' section,this indeed may be the case, for sure it would be third party only. The seller's insurance level is irrelevant in this scenario unless they have 'any driver' cover in which case the issue doesn't really arise,although there might be some hefty excess in the eventof a claim if the buyer is under 25.

[2ManySpams]

What engine is it and what colour - I asusme its an E46 3 Series. is it a true Sport or an SE with bits added? Makes a big difference to price.

 

It's the 2.5L straight 6 - very nice engine. It's the original M Sport spec (gear stick, steering wheel and door cill trim etc) with extra sun roof. As many weren't made i've not seen another one for sale yet on which to gauge a true private sale price.

[Jol Wilkinson]

It's the 2.5L straight 6 - very nice engine. It's the original M Sport spec (gear stick, steering wheel and door cill trim etc) with extra sun roof. As many weren't made i've not seen another one for sale yet on which to gauge a true private sale price.

 

If you were offered 2K - 2.3K for it then the garage/trader would probably aim to retail it for 3K -3.5K to cover overheads, mechanical preparation, warranty implications, valeting, etc. as well as make a profit. As a retail seller, you need to pitch the price below that, probably around 2.5 - 2.9K, depending on mileage, condition, etc. Start at the higher price, to allow for offers.

[EddScott]

I would check what the V5 says as to the vehicles spec is - an E46 325I Sport Touring in good condition with 112K should be worth more than ??3K