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Project 92062 Tyne Dock 9F - completed!


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Here she is transferred up and masked ready for a spray of varnish. Then it's weathering time.

 

If you look closely you'll see I've made up and attached and painted the brass cleats on the pipework along the boiler. They're probably a bit overscale but I made them as small as I could manage with my big fingers ha ha.

 

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The face. The shed plate goes on next, but as it's etched I left it off until the varnish dries.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A quick update.

I've been a bit busy so have only managed to work on the black 9 here and there. Now that the chassis is weathered I turned to the body. I'm going for a 'used but not filthy' condition, I've seen pics of the Tyne Dockers in this condition when they'd recently been cleaned up to haul specials or had been to the works. In addition I'm making this engine kind of a compilation of Tyne Dock engines, so although it's numbered 62 and is largely based on 62 it's not a hundred per cent faithful and if I see something I like in pics of any of the other engines I'll throw it in.

 

First thing was a light misting of matt varnish, which dried spotty like a rash. Another coat and it looked more of the same. Disappointed, I decided to get on with something else and masked up to paint the smokebox and cab toof in flat black (Halfords' finest) so they'd look 'separate' to the rest of the engine.

 

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Here's a pic of the result. Now I realise that you can't tell the difference from this pic but believe me there was a variation.

 

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I put on the shed plate and masked up the face too:

 

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but dear reader for now I'll leave you in suspense why I did that ha ha.

It looks in this pic like my numbering is wonky but look closer and you'll see that it's actually the handrail that slopes (so it's Bachmann's fault, not mine).

 

Back to the boiler and I discovered that I could clean off the varnish with a cotton bud or sponge very lightly soaked in thinners and get some very nice streaking effects to boot. By carefully wiping down I could leave the spottiness in patches that looked like convincing sooty grime, so by accident I got exactly the finish I was after! To add a 'mohawk' of built up soot along the top of the boiler ( and to help hide the seam!) I mixed smoke weathering powder into flat black paint and sparingly dabbed it on, feathering the edges as I went until there was a visible stripe along the top. Which sounds horrendous but actually looks rather nice.

 

The body is now weathered to the point where it can go back on the wheels. The pony truck is weathered up too so that can go back on and then I'll try and sort some pics of the work so far.

Not long to go until I start on the tender.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hello Raised on Steam,

 

Really enjoying seeing your progress so far, your BR Blue 9F was brilliant and this one is shaping up to be even better.

 

You may poo-poo this idea if you want, but I noticed these on an exhibition layout this weekend and thought, if you want something cheap(er) and don't mind a compromise, these Roco hoppers in HO might provide a good starting point? They do several versions, including some with straight sided top sections (top right in second pic).

IMG_8940_zps7toiokfc.jpg

 

roco-67056-pkp-self-unloading-hopper-wag

 

Might be better with some 00 wheels and bogies perhaps, just a thought!

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And a good thought it is because I've already looked into these.

They are definitely a cheaper alternative that do look very similar to the TD56 tonners. I think Fleischmann did some similar ones too but I'm not sure if either they or Roco still make them. I've seen some on ebay but they are fairly thin on the ground in this country it seems and whilst they're cheaper than metal kits they can still be a touch pricey.

 

Glad you're enjoying the black 9. She's back on her chassis now and the pony truck's fitted and her crew are working away in the cab. I had a little setback with the weathering but nothing I can't fix in a few minutes. Then it's on to the tender!

 

Meanwhile here's her cab painted out. The pic is a bit shiny and there're a couple of bits to touch in but you get the idea.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

A placeholder post: I've been called away doing other stuff for a few weeks so haven't updated this in a while.

 

Last things I did was weathering which was looking great…until I had a brain storm and blasted on some varnish which soaked the whole lot up, so it'll need redoing in places.

Also tried to fit some etched front steps and discovered there was virtually nothing to attach them to and they promptly fell off. So I made up some prototypical reinforcing angle stachion things from spare fret and then lost my mojo and, erm, 'parked' the loco in a siding so to speak until I could get enough time/enthusiasm together to carry on.

Then there's the tender to weather too, which should be a breeze compared to the engine.

 

I will get round to it soon though and get some more pics up.

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Think I've cracked the footstep issue.

 

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Not quite accurate but the best I can manage. The Bachmann has small metal nubs to hang the steps on so I cut round and stuck them to those.

 

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As you can see I've attached prototypical reinforcement stanchion angles which have firmed the steps up enough to be able to take the slings and arrows of running round my loop.

The glue looks blobby in this pic but in real life it isn't. Also the steps ARE straight, they just look off with lens bend.

 

I have to add: I originally glued both the steps and stanchions but then realised (before it was too late - phew) that this meant the body and chassis were actually stuck together…...

so off they came and went back on but this time I only glued the stanchions so the steps are 'free floating' allowing the body to be removed if necessary (and let's face it sod's law says that it would).

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Continuing the work on the front end:

 

First I decided/realised that I'd have to sacrifice the front coupling. I looked at pics of Tyne Docker's that other people had done and it was the case there. So off with the NEM pocket which meant I could make the pony truck look much more like it belonged to a 9F.

 

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Next up the AWS bang plate. I'd made one for my 1970's blue experiment but didn't think I'd get away with one on this engine, however losing the coupler means it just fits and there is a slot along the front of the chassis block that's just the right size to slip the plate in. Remembering of course to either glue down one side or cut a shallow slot in the chassis block for the bang plate….not to glue the body to the chassis. Which isn't what I did. Honestly.

 

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…and as before it is actually straight even though it looks wonky on the pic.

Oh, and I painted the copper pony spring black too so it'll blend in which actually makes a real difference visually.

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It's been a week of running around and doing a quick bit more to the 9 in passing (usually whilst cooking my tea). What I've been busy with has been so fiddly that I could only do small pieces at a time due to the limit of time I can hold my breath for.

 

First job - I was happy with the AWS bang plate but realised I'd made and fitted the wrong type - a Britannia one. The Tyne DOCK 9Fs had different more rugged looking ones. Plus I didn't like the idea that I'd effectively glued and wedged body to chassis. So off it came and after a lot of agonising trial and error I made up a new one. Here're the old one and the replacement.

 

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Next I dug out the various bufferbeam hoses and this is the sprue with a lick of black to mark out the hoses. The  largest ones are slightly wrong as the metal part is straight up and down whereas on the real thing they had a slight dog leg to them. A bit of gingerly tweaking with pliers got the shape about right.

 

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I fitted the bang plate alright (although I got the position wrong - they were off centre but never mind I like it better as is) but the pipes were a bit of a pain. They're so fine and there's very little glueable area. Plus there has to be clearance to be able to drop the chassis off if need be. First attempt failed as I brushed the front of the engine in passing and off came two of the pipes, one of which vanished into the bermuda triangle (I found it days later) but luckily I had a spare. After that I ended up drilling into the buffer beam where possible to get a strong(ish) fit. I stuck on the Bachmann coupling to finish off.

 

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As you can see there's quite a bit going on down the front now as once I decided to sacrifice the front coupler I wanted to go as whole the hog as skills/scale/eye sight/sausage fingers would allow. I've missed out a few little details as they would be just too fiddly to be practical but you don't miss them and I think I've got the balance about right as is.

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Right as promised here're some pics of the finished engine. I went for a scruffy but not filthy type weathering, as though the engine had been in the works or on a railtour in recent times but was now back to the hard dirty graft. I'm pretty sure 92062 never worked any such railtours and like to think she was perhaps one of the more 'forgotten' engines that doesn't crop up in as many pictures or films as some of the others.

 

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There're probably a few bits of touching in to do (having looked at the unforgiving pictures) and the top lamp fell off after I took the photos so will need putting back on more robustly I reckon. The AWS pipe is murder to keep attached, I'm not surprised most people tend to leave them off. 

Actually the lamps themselves were a real eyestrain to do, and were relics from my teenage modelling years. They're Hornby plastic ones drilled and fitted with jewels from an ancient Laygate cast white metal set of LNER lamps. Talk about FIDDLY ha ha.

 

Now a few more pics:

 

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If I do another Tyne Docker (and I do have some possible/maybe plans….) I'd definitely simplify the details as it's proving difficult to actually pick the engine up to move it round! Luckily it doesn't have to be manhandled too much once it's on my loop of track, and I've built a Superquick engine shed (which I bought last week HALF PRICE at Gladston's in North Shields) to plonk over it to keep the dust off when it's not in use.

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  • 7 months later...

To revive a thread that is of great interest to me and many others, I would like to offer a further step towards recreating a typical sight towards the end of the lives of the Tyne Dock 9F's. 

The loco is an already modified 9F which I have revisited to represent missing cylinder front covers.

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The loco is now awaiting a bit of touch up to the weathering.

Looking at prototype images, it seems that this condition was common throughout the Tyne Dock 9F fleet.

 

Bob

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That missing cylinder cover is a nice touch! 92099 was in such a condition when she hauled the last ceremonial train to Alnwick even though she was otherwise decked out.

 

92062 is due a touch up session when I get some time. I'm going to tweak a few things. Pics as and when.

 

Meanwhile I've been busy with another 9F project this last few months that was even more of a challenge and which I'm almost ready to break cover with……..

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That missing cylinder cover is a nice touch! 92099 was in such a condition when she hauled the last ceremonial train to Alnwick even though she was otherwise decked out.

 

92062 is due a touch up session when I get some time. I'm going to tweak a few things. Pics as and when.

 

Meanwhile I've been busy with another 9F project this last few months that was even more of a challenge and which I'm almost ready to break cover with……..

If you want to reproduce the missing cylinder cover, PM me and I can provide 3D printed parts either as the photograph or with ribs.   

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  • 2 weeks later...

Further to post #63.

 

Tyne Dock 9F with missing cylinder front cover. Now with weathering touched up (needs a bit of toning down - I think).

 

Still a work in progress, needs drain pipes, front steps and bash plate adding.

 

 

post-23776-0-80574000-1451742062_thumb.jpg

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