Raised On Steam Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Here's a blurred pic of the first set of pipes painted up and attached. Looking at pictures these pipes are actually lagged like similar pipes on Britannia's. The top end of the pipe plumbs into the steam manifold atop the firebox. I took a fine drill and (carefully) made a dimple to help the pipe attach in place. I noticed afterwards that I hadn't got it perfect but it was close enough. I first put some fine masking tape under the manifold before drilling it in case of slipping. Next the big one - the pumps. This was I think the third attempt in finding a way to fix these. I'll come clean here that I actually cut the slot in the running plate when I first tried a few months before now. I'd read an article showing how to attach the to a Hornby with wire pegs but this doesn't work with Bachmann engines as the footplate is very thin and is metal. Initially I drilled into the upper portions of the pumps and soldered in pegs but found the pumps wouldn't sit square. So I added a second peg on each pump glued in from the middle thinner section to sort of come in from below the running plate as well as above, but the pumps then sat too high, the bottom of the upper portion of the pump should line up with the bottom of the running plate or near to it. I gave up, threw them in the box and went off to build some super hero kits instead. Over time the 9F was sitting up there on the shelf accusing me, but I just couldn't think of a solution. Finally of course it dawned on me to make brackets. I'd originally thought of this before I actually started when I was building the blue 1970s engine. Because that one wasn't a runner I built up prototypical brackets and attached the pumps to those. This is considerably harder on a runner though as the body still has to be removeable. Sod's law tells us that if it wasn't then something would go horribly wrong and the engine would have to come apart involving piers and cutters. If you look at the drawing I previously posted you'll see how substantial the prototype cantilevered brackets had to be. I nipped off the wire pegs and ground back flush again. I don't have facilities (or abilities) enough to make brackets like the real thing so made simple compromise brackets, sort of little 'shelves', doing away with the bulky prototypical arms but keeping the square backing plate. I drilled little holes in them where they attach to the pump bodies to make it easier to line them up first then apply the glue (or solder if I'd gone that way) 'through' the bracket from behind. I managed to make these brackets narrow enough to look right if you notice them when you look at them straight on - the real life pumps were hung on substantial plates that seemed invisible because they were behind lost in the gloom: These were INCREDIBLY fiddly to attach. I had to thread them onto the pipe, press them up square to the running plate and also get them facing straight. This after the glue had been applied and the clock was ticking fast. It took about half a dozen attempts, each with its full compliment of swear words, having to clean up and prepare each time, before I finally got the pumps in place. Hallelujah! I put the engine back up on the shelf and left it alone for a day or two before I was brave enough to go back to it. So the glue was nice and rock hard solid by then. Here's how my brackets look from below. The 'plumbing' up above helps to make rigid the pump assemblies. There are many breath holding moments still ahead though! Somehow I'd manage to end up with blobs of glue across the bottoms of the pumps obliterating the detail. I very carefully picked that away with a sharp craft knife and it looks much better now. I have the detail back. I had to gently grind the brackets back a tiny bit at a time until the body would 'fall' back onto the chassis with no catching. Here we see the pipes from the reservoirs in relation to the freshly fitted pumps. Looks ok. The idea is to trim these pipes back so the pumps slide in place and the pipes hover over them in their place. I have to admit it's a plan I'm less and less enthused by. I'm also less and less happy with the pipes themselves too. They aren't the right shape and they don't marry up to the pumps as well as I'd like. I really want them to look like the drawing, but it would be a ball-ache to remove the existing pipes without risking damage. What to do, what to do……. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mr.S.corn78 Posted February 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2015 Hi, Thanks for the link. Will get them ordered up next week. On the few I have done i fitted the pipes to the pumps first and the cut them so it had the impression of them running under the boiler. I think I have a couple of pics on my S H model Making blog. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Good pic! Nice one. Good to meet you today! You too - I haven't forgotten about the DVDs, it appears that I have 'tidied them somewhere safe' which, of course, means I can't remember where I put them... John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 A quick update. The exhaust pipes are on. They look rather tatty in this pic because the paint fell off whilst I was manipulating them but a repaint will take care of that. I went a bit crazy with the glue on the underside but if I bung some weathering powder up there later on no-one will notice he he. But look at those pipes where they meet the pumps! Shocking! I'd hoped they'd look better than that. Don't think I can live with those as they are…. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Well they've gone. I couldn't live with those dodgy pipes so I desoldered/yanked them out - and also yanked the tanks completely off by accident. Which turned out to be a good thing actually as I hadn't stuck them on very well to begin with, so with a little fettling they're now back on and hopefully rock solid. Plus while they were off I had a chance to ream out the holes a little to make sure the new pipes fit in. The eagle eyed will notice that I trimmed back the pipes that run along from the reservoirs under the cab. Below is an older pic to show what I mean. Basically I was struggling to get them to fit neatly and when I double checked my reference pics you can't really see the pipes when they disappear up under the running plate anyway. The snipped other ends are stuck to the underside of the cab so they're correctly visible, and are angled away to hide behind the forthcoming AWS battery box. This all means that eventually the body will (hopefully) be as removeable friendly as possible. Next job is to make some new, correctly shaped pipes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 A spin out for fresh supplies of brass wire and it's time to shape the cross pipes. I'm using the drawing as a guide this time. First the bends from the reservoirs. I'd previously soldered them together but they're actually separate. Here's how they look from the other side. From here I can judge where to bend them to exactly fit the pumps then trim them to size. I want them so they 'sit' in place with no stress. I've also added the short step plate in between the pumps. Comparing the pipes to the drawings shows they're actually a close match and should look spot on in place. I'm going to glue them into the reservoirs and leave the pump ends free, and they're thin enough to be able to 'spring' into the holes in the pumps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 And here's what they look like test fitted in place. Gluing to come later when the body is reattached to make sure they're a snug fit. They look a bit mottled where the primer has come off but I'm sure will look fab when they're painted properly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 A few bits and pieces still to do. First the regulator rod. A lot of Bachmann 9F's I've seen seem to suffer from bendy regulator rods. This is because the very fine plastic rod has to bend round the pipes coming down from the top of the firebox. Mine snapped early on when I tried to straighten it so I glued in a fine piece of brass wire as a replacement. There we go - nice and straight! Next the AWS equipment which sits under the cab. I've added some additional pipework here that I spotted when I was looking at reference pics. More still to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Time to do the front step. I chopped out the small steps with my trusty dremel (they're cast mazak). I had to gan canny here as there isn't a lot of room to play with and there's loads of small detail on the engine's 'face' - one slip and……. Here it is ready for the new step. I made the new step up from the thinnest brass fret I had to hand. I made it out of two pieces to be like the prototype rather than one. Here it is glued in place and ready for primer. That's the body mostly done for now so next I'm going to move on to getting the chassis finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 This one of 4 conversions I've done ( 3 Bachmann and 1 DJH). The Bachmann locos have DCC sound. 9 Dave Bradwell hoppers behind. I have 9 Dave Alexander hoppers to build. This is from the Consett to Tyne Dock thread. The Dave Alexander hoppers will have to wait as I'm concentrating on converting 24 Hornby Cemflo hoppers to something a bit closer to correct dimensions so I can run thye Cliffe to Uddingston cement train that did for DP2. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Cool. Which loco numbers did you model? I was trying to find one that hadn't been done yet but as there were only ten I'm guessing they all have twice over by now. I'm hoping to build one Consett hopper at some point just to say I have one. There's no way I can afford a full rake. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 19, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2015 Unless someone does a 3D print of the hoppers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 A cheaper plastic version would certainly be very welcome as far as I'm concerned. TBH there're loads of things I'd love to build but the wallet prevents it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 A cheaper plastic version would certainly be very welcome as far as I'm concerned. TBH there're loads of things I'd love to build but the wallet prevents it. I agree that a hopper produced by Hornby or Bachmann would be a sight cheaper than the price for a kit and it would be a lot quicker than the time it took me to build the first 9. The problem is it's a bit of a niche subject. Not many layouts would justify running them. The layout I was building was Plawsworth Station, just north of Durham. I've now moved just a mile or so south to Newton Hall Junction. My justification for running them is that the normal route through Beamish is closed (engineering works or accident) when trains would run via the Deerness line and would have gone through Durham. What I can't find out is what route they would take to Durham. Either: - via Gateshead and up the ECML all the way to Durham. - OR the normal route as far as Washington, then down the old main line (Leamside) as far as the junction for the old Sunderland to Bishop Auckland line, rejoining the ECML at Newton Hall Junction. I have photographs at Relly Mill Junction so I know it happened and either way the trains would go through Newton Hall Junction but I'm not sure from which direction. Can anyone help? Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I agree that a hopper produced by Hornby or Bachmann would be a sight cheaper than the price for a kit and it would be a lot quicker than the time it took me to build the first 9. The problem is it's a bit of a niche subject. Not many layouts would justify running them. The layout I was building was Plawsworth Station, just north of Durham. I've now moved just a mile or so south to Newton Hall Junction. My justification for running them is that the normal route through Beamish is closed (engineering works or accident) when trains would run via the Deerness line and would have gone through Durham. What I can't find out is what route they would take to Durham. Either: - via Gateshead and up the ECML all the way to Durham. - OR the normal route as far as Washington, then down the old main line (Leamside) as far as the junction for the old Sunderland to Bishop Auckland line, rejoining the ECML at Newton Hall Junction. I have photographs at Relly Mill Junction so I know it happened and either way the trains would go through Newton Hall Junction but I'm not sure from which direction. Can anyone help? Bob A plastic kit would do me! The 56T's are a bit beyond me scratchbuilding wise. As I say I might be able to afford one token metal wagon to build. Maybe if my 9F looks halfway decent when it's finished someone will invite it along to haul a full rake of hoppers….;-) I agree the Consett wagons are way too niche for RTR and once someone owned a whole rake if they were counting the pennies they'd then probably invest in a rake of something different. Having said that Hornby used to do hoppers with Consett written on them and seemed to have sold plenty of them. Out of interest which numbers were the 9F's you converted? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Or maybe someone with 2 rakes and no railway might lend you one of the rakes so you really spend time taking yourself back to the 60's. Sat beside "loud bank" as the locals in Tanfield used to call the railway there. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBAGE Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 As an aside, the first rake was fully complete but I wasn't satisfied with the transfers. So, I've sourced alternatives from Railtec Transfers so I need to strip the originals off, flat the paintwork back, respray the sides and re-apply with Railtec. Shouldn't take long. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 19, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2015 Are there any diagrams of the Tyne Dock hoppers around? Relative measurements etc? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 I think the plans for the TD hoppers will be at NRM. I think. I remember I found a line diagram in one of the BR wagon recognition handbooks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Or maybe someone with 2 rakes and no railway might lend you one of the rakes so you really spend time taking yourself back to the 60's. Sat beside "loud bank" as the locals in Tanfield used to call the railway there. Bob Which railway is that? The Tanfield or Bowes line? I was a toddler in the 1960's he he, but I do have a DVD of the Consett trains so can imagine what they were like. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Found the DVDs First one is Steam World 14 The North East which has footage of 9Fs and others at South Pelaw Junction, Stella Gill, Beamish and all the way up the hill to Beamish. Second is Marsden Rail 17 North Durham which has some very nice footage of the iron ore trains at Tyne Dock, Beamish and also unloading at Consett. There is also a You Tube video showing South Pelaw here: John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks for that. I actually just bought Marsden 17 on ebay as a birthday present to myself, and it's magnificent! A symphony of Tyne Dock steam! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 A quick update. Been busy weathering the chassis when I've had time. Pics to come later. Meanwhile made up the top spring for the pony truck. It already has the side springs moulded on. Here it is glued on and ready for painting and weathering. I've kept the coupler pocket for now as I haven't decided whether I'm putting a working coupling on the front or not. Easy thing to fettle at a later date. I've also made up the front steps (Comet ones) as the engine didn't have any (one of the reasons I got it for a lower price). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 As promised here's the weathered chassis. I'll do more when the engine's back together again, but wanted to get into the nooks and crannies while it was apart. The rods are actually 'oiled up' on this side too but for some reason you can't tell from this pic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raised On Steam Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Steps to painting the front step. If there's an easy way I tend not to do it…. 'Sausage roll' masking. Not brilliant but will look ok when hidden behind some weathering. Notice the blank number plate on the smokebox. I T-Cut'd through three layers to get it back to the wood. The previous owner had painted over the old numbers before putting on new ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.