Frappington Jct Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Once again, I'm only staking my claim, but as I've pretty much decided that I'm going to build this, I thought that if I put it up now I might get some tips before starting!The plan is to take a Bachmann K3 and, using a B17 boiler, convert it to something approximating a K2. This really won't be totally accurate, for the reasons listed below:Features it will include*Correct diameter boiler (old Hornby B17)*Roughly the right shape cab*Roughly correct major dimensions (as constricted by the donor model)Features it may include*A correct LOOKING tender - this will probably be done by chopping up a baccy LNER group standard tender until it looks right, although I'm open for ideas (I'm averse to soldering, but apart for that I'm up for anything)Things it won't have*Correct diameter wheels - I'm too scared of having to muck about with the valve gear to change the wheels!*Correct sized cylinders - on the prototype there's a 2in difference between the K3 and the K2, and with my skills I'm not going to bother attempting to change it!*Correct curve in the running plate - this will be the one major external feature which will be completely wrong, though I can't think how to change it - ideas welcome!So, there we are. As I've said, this won't be particularly prototypical, but I don't think it'll matter to me. Anyway, if the worst comes to the worst, it won't take much to make a K4, which is easier, though dosent fit my layout!Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frappington Jct Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 So, an update. Firstly, a picture of all the components that I currently possess: You can see the chassis, B17 boiler, K3 running plate, back head and cab, and the K3 steam pipe. In addition, I'm going to order K2 boiler fittings from London Road models and will attempt to build a more prototypical cab out of plasticard - I'm going to get some this at the weekend. If that doesn't work, then I've literally just hatched a plan that involves attacking the B17 cab and then splicing it onto the curved bottom section of the K3 cab. Anyway, there has been progress in anticipation of developments on the cab front. The main work has been focussed on the boiler - which is the part of the loco which requires the most work. The first job was to cut a slot for the motor and a slot for the metal block under the smoke box which holds the front of the boiler in place. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures at this point, but suffice to say that it took ages, was rather annoying and as the boiler is smaller than that of the K3, then the slot for the smoke box block has to be bigger and thus is more obvious. I'm hoping to be able to hide this at a later date. The next job was to reduce the boiler in length. I measured the K3 boiler and cut out an appropriate section from the B17 boiler before sticking the two sections back together - using the moulded steam pipe as a guide to get it aligned. At this point, it was time to try and get the ride height of the boiler right on the running plate. This would have been a lot easier if I hadn't screwed the back head back in in order to help secure the cab on earlier in order to check that the boiler was aligned. I had managed to screw it so tightly that I couldn't get it out. This was a rather massive problem as the back head has a lip on it which keeps the K3 boiler in place. The plan was to replace the back head completely on the finished model, but that now couldn't happen. The solution that I came up with was to cut the lip off completely with a hacksaw. This actually went quite well, considering I'm really not very handy with tools... So, next came the painstaking process of getting the boiler height right. This took a while, but I hope it's right! The below photo shows a head on view, does it look about right? Anyway, with that done, I sanded off the moulded boiler bands and steam pipe from the boiler, and filled in all the gaps left by both the splicing of the boiler and where the handrail holes on the B17 were. I then could put the boiler onto the running plate to sort out any massive daylight problems. So, as can be seen, there was a lot of daylight where the gap for the block was too big. I pondered about how to fix this, but then had a brain wave! I chopped up the lip from the back head and put that in under the boiler instead. This actually looks fine, and when it's painted I think it'll look OK. Tada! Anyway, that's it for now (I think!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frappington Jct Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 So, after much dithering and progress with other projects, I have finally made some real progress with the K2. The boiler fittings have been sorted, with a boiler and dome bought from London Road Models which I've fitted into locating holes drilled into the B17 boiler. I have also decided to have a go at building the cab myself, rather than getting a professional to build it as I was starting to consider. Although I did originally want a GNR wrap-round cab, and if this idea doesn't work I'll get one built for me, I'm willing to compromise with a later build cab if I can have the satisfaction of knowing I built it. So, I took the K3 cab and so far have spent a very long time removing the roof, and not much else. The idea is to reduce in height, fill in the hole in the middle of the cab front (with space for the motor) and build a new roof. This may or may not work - though you never know... As the photos below show, I've also got the tender sorted (though currently bereft of wheels), in the form of a Graeme King kit. It really is very nice -and very much within my abilities as it's a one piece resin mould with some extra parts! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frappington Jct Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Well, the K2 is now all but finished and ready for lining! The only part of the loco now not done other than the lining is the couplings and the tender - loco connection, although as these aren't crucial to the loco, I'm going to leave them until after the loco is lined, as that's much more pressing an issue! I also need a whistle - but that needs a visit to a show to sort. Anyway, moving on to what's happened with the model! The cab was built by slightly re-profiling the front of the structure to allow a more prototypical curve, although I know it isn't quite right. The roof is simply a rectangle of plasticard, glued to all appropriate areas. I couldn't get it to keep its profile - a fact that is probably attainable to me having never done this before! - and as such I have had to put a support in the cab in the form of part of an old biro, the clear plastic being the least intrusive thing I could think of. It isn't massively obvious from many angles, especially with the tender in place. It should also then be further obscured when a crew is added. The cab windows were added by completely filling the apertures with filler, and then scraping out the shape of the windows whilst it was still wet, thus meaning it set in the correct way. The other major piece of work was the smoke box saddle/steam pipes. These were simple plasticard constructions, glued to the loco, which don't look too bad in my opinion... And then a final addition of the boiler steam pipe, which came off the original K3 donor model, and was simply glued to the model. The whole model was then painted black in preparation for being sent off for lining. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david65061 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Dear Frappington Jct I hate to tell you this now you have finished your loco, but the way to get plasticard to take a curve is to warm it up. I usually make my cab roofs by taping the plasticard to the outside of a jar of suitable dimensions (ie slightly smaller the actual curve you require) such as a spice jar, jam jar or pickle jar. You then fill the jar with boiling water. After a couple of minutes cool everything down with cold water then remove your plastic card. it should have taken the curve of the jar. I have even done it by putting the plastic card on the jar in a very low oven and leave long enough for it to warm and take the shape of the jar, this method works better with thick sheets. I hope this helps for next time you have a go at another loco. kind regards David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD0-6-0 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 If you're interested (may be a little late) I'll make up a great northern style cab for you, I made one this morning and I'd be more than happy to do another one? Glad to see the boiler going to good use Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frappington Jct Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Thanks both. David, I try to get it to curve through warming it and using a former, but I didn't seem to be able to get it to work. I'm not massively concerned about it though, as the support isn't/won't be massively obvious. Rhys, thanks for the offer, but while I'm sure yours would look much better than what I've built, I'm satisfied with mine and I prefer looking at something and saying 'I built that' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD0-6-0 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 No problem, I wouldn't think it would look any better, my thoughts were more in keeping with your modelled location. I totally agree with being proud of what you've made Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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