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The Zomboid Sideboard Railroad


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Dear Zomb,

 

 

 

 they do go together when I push them, it's just making them stay like that that's the problem

 

...which tends to suggest the "warping side" theory.
(it may also mean that the heights of the 2 walls are not 100% the same.
Does the "at rest with a split" shape look like a () or a |) ?)

If the top and bottom corners are solidly glued, and the walls when pushed together do look like they are the same height,
(pushing the sides together doesn't just corral a "bulge" hard up one-end of the "split")

 

2 options come to mind:

 

1 - Hold the sides together in the middle (where the offset is largest),
and introduce capilliary-action-thin plastic adhesive

(Revell Contacta or similar)

 

to the _rear_ of the joint,
(the "inside" of the 90-degree corner),

 

letting it flow into and up/down along the joint.
(do not release pressure until the glue is dry, should only be a minute or 2 for clean dry plastic surfaces)

 

or

 

2 - Use a thin disposable tool (skewer? maybe a thin strip of sacrifical styrene?)

 

to run a thin layer of medium-thickness ACC

(green Zap-a-Gap?)

 

along the inside of the joint, and hold together for at least 60 seconds.

 

 

I do hope this helps, nothing infuriates-over-time more than a model that you know "is just not-quite-right"...

 

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

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  • 3 weeks later...

I "finished" the kit (well, that's probably true in one way or another), and placed it in position. A couple of pics showing the view across a few cars to the factory/warehouse/generic industry. Also in shot, a couple of new tank cars I bought at the Seaboard Southern show 6 weeks or so ago. I think we can all agree that this looks highly Californian... (Oh well, there's always next time...).

"overview"

post-25860-0-82221700-1446925421_thumb.jpg

a lower level view showing the seamless joins on the building. Might be a bit draughty in there, notwithstanding the lack of a back wall...

post-25860-0-72637900-1446925422_thumb.jpg

ACL car looks a bit weathered in this, but that's just the poor quality of my phone camera. Looks quite nice though...

I've got a plan to improve the loading platform thing on the right, which involves junking it and using the rest of the kit to build something better...

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  • 6 months later...

Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

I've not made a lot of progress since the last time I posted, due to having moved house amongst other lame excuses - I've now got a bit more space for a layout, and the ZSRR no longer lives on the sideboard, but I'm going to progress this one for a while, and hopefully learn what I'm doing before I take advantage of having another 3 feet of length to play with.

Today I've actually had a bit of time for modelling, so I've dismantled the walthers kit in the background of the previous post, on the grounds that I'd put it together really badly. Fortunately I used water soluble glue, so 10 minutes in a bucket of warm water and we're back to a flat-pack.

I've also got over my fear of making a horrible mess of it and had a go at weathering a freight car. I'm not entirely sure that I haven't made a horrible mess of it, but actually I don't mind the roof at least...

I basically went in with a liberal application of Tamiya weathering powders (using the spongy blobby end of the supplied applicator - looks like an eye shadow applicator for those of us who use that :P I also put some rust spots and some of the roof detail with a relatively dry brush of burnt umber and black artists oil paints. It is much harder to get the muck into the places where it actually accumulates than it is on the flat bits, isn't it?

Advice welcomed...

Unmolested Accurail Freight Car

post-25860-0-03664600-1464615406_thumb.jpg

General View of "After"

post-25860-0-89980700-1464615417_thumb.jpg

The Roof

post-25860-0-61948000-1464615418_thumb.jpg

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Only just picked up this thread, I suppose it's been below the radar for quite a time.. Hope you're settling in the new zomboid nest,and looking forward to see how it's progresses. Not familiar with the weathering powders you're using, I just go for artists pastel chalk, powdered on emery paper. Then either put on dry, and brush in for a light application, or mix in a wet powder with water,and brush on , then leave til dry. If it looks too much lightly scrub off with a brush. Either way you can wash it off if you don't like it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More barely-worth-writing progress, I've done a bit more weathering.

 

Here's a cruel close-up shot of the "finished" version. Much less overdone than the first one, but is it enough? This was done by dry brushing paint all over it (pretty much) and wiping it off, doing more coats as I got towards the bottom.

post-25860-0-38762600-1465931800_thumb.jpg

 

And here's all 3 of my now-weathered silver Accurail boxcars. From left to right they get more recent. I've tried removing what I could from the first 2, and I think the end result is OK. Not bad for a first ever attempt, anyway. If you look at them from 4 feet away. In the dark. Through a wall.

post-25860-0-33998800-1465931801_thumb.jpg

 

I want to have a go at chalk, but haven't come across any suitable coloured chalk just yet. And the next thing I ruin will have to be a different base colour as I've done all my silver cars now.

 

If you're really squinting you'll see that I've bought a rattlecan of railmatch sleeper grime and given the tracks a going over with that. Looks less plastic, but it's very easy to overdo. Still this layout is all about learning... :)

 

Any feedback and advice welcomed. Lavatorial humour also appreciated.

 

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One other issue to mention, I've just bought a proto 2000 geep which has no couplers. I'm ok for the kadees and gearboxes, but I'm stumped when it comes to the screws which attach them to the chassis.

Anyone able to help me find what to buy?

Cheers.

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One other issue to mention, I've just bought a proto 2000 geep which has no couplers. I'm ok for the kadees and gearboxes, but I'm stumped when it comes to the screws which attach them to the chassis.

Anyone able to help me find what to buy?

Cheers.

They are available on ebay - you need 2-56 screws in various lengths - also a google seach for them will link you to UK suppliers, but BE CAREFUL - it is easy to get metric screws by mistake!. You can also buy them in packs in all sizes from Athearn and on ebay.com

Ebay.co.uk has these as an example eBay item number: 222097148488

 

The other two things well worth having are the drills and tap set, and a coupler height gauge, if you don't have them, both from Kadee

 

Added:- these sound expensive - but could well be value for money and should last you for years - you get 600 after all - eBay item number: 190796127983

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Perfect timing, I mentioned on a thread elsewhere that I needed some for my Proto 2000 SW9, but 0-80 were too small. It seems my search is over. 

Zomboid, if you haven't ordered any yet, pm me an address and once they arrive and I confirm they fit, i'll tape a handful to the inside of an envelope for you to save us both having more than we could ever realistically use.

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  • 1 month later...

In my typically rushed fashion, I've now "finished" rebuilding the Walthers commissary building. The photo is what you might call ropey, but you'll get a flavour. To my eyes, it passes the "quick glance" test, but isn't going to stand up to closer scrutiny. Still, it's better than the last thing I wrecked, so that's a positive.

Also in shot is another attempt at weathering a boxcar - the Great Northern blue one. This time I used the "spray on waaaaaayyyy to much brown paint and try to get it off with thinners" approach. So it's not eactly subtle, but it's also a big improvement over the plasticky Athearn blue-boxness that it was before I got the rattlecan out. So still not exhibition standard, but I'm happy enough to be progressing and improving - at least I think I am... After that, my abiding thought was that I should get myself an airbrush, as rattlecans are a bit too agricultural for this kind of thing.

post-25860-0-68676400-1470083961_thumb.jpg

Next up will be another Walthers special, the Golden Valley freight house. I think to make it look vaguely SP I need to paint it "Colonial Yellow" and some kind of reddy brown, but if anyone knows better (and where I could source some suitable paint from) I'm ready any willing to listen.

Oh, and also if anyone knows of a supplier of 1:87 Hot Rods (specifically, the ZZ Top one from the Gimme All Your Lovin/ Legs/ Sharp Dressed Man videos) I'm also all ears.

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Oh, and also if anyone knows of a supplier of 1:87 Hot Rods (specifically, the ZZ Top one from the Gimme All Your Lovin/ Legs/ Sharp Dressed Man videos) I'm also all ears.

Try putting  1:87 scale hotrods  or 1/87 hotrods into ebay.co.uk , ebay.de , and ebay.com - there are quite a lot available, but be aware a lot aren't cheap! Also may be worth joining facebook - they have a lively 1/87 vehicle section

 

EDIT  Just found this - last item on page  http://www.hobbylinc.com/ricko-1932-ford-hot-rod-roadster-limited-edition-red-ho-scale-model-railroad-vehicle-38797

also this  eBay item number:

261629965877

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  • 2 months later...

post-25860-0-72455400-1476818106_thumb.jpg

Almost worthless update time!

I've had a bit of fun with foliage. The woodland scenics bush thingy and a noch puffer bottle. The colours are a bit garish (they look better in real life than the picture, but it's still a bit much), but I'm happy with the texture and the appearance of the texture - I particularly like the bit in the 4 foot on the "main" in the foreground. The abandoned bit at the back looks good in real life, too. Hopefully I'll get some other colours this week and have a bit of a play at the weekend.

Also in shot my other new toys - a sound fitted Atlas SP Alco HH660, and Bachmann DCC trainset controller to enable to me at least partly use the sound functions (those are a laugh, I like timing the coupler collisions to the actual collisions, it that kind of thing really brings it to life) and really good low speed control.

I also fitted a chip to my BN GP9, but it seems to be set to 14 speed steps, which makes switching really quite hard, as step 1 is a nice slow speed, but step 2 is way too fast. Sadly you can see the extent of my DCC programming kit, so I'll be looking to upgrade that sometime soon. I've been having a fiddle with JMRI, to see about creating switch lists for this monster of a layout which has been fun, so I suspect I'll be ordering a sprog before I'm too much older...

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