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Not managed many photos of weathering I have done recently .. Duchesses and Princesses have been weathered as well as more wagons and locos... But today with the temperature at a reasonable level I took some recent weathering work outside to get some photos. One item is for my own use the other two are fr use on Wentworth Junction.. Starting with two Hornby English Electric 350hp shunters. Mine is the Western Region one. There are some nice colour photographs of these locos now available. These are based on a pair of the real locos at rest at Manvers Main Colliery And just to prove I have weathered both sides Next up a Brush Type 2 A1A A1A (Airfix modified by Mike Edge) Baz

Little is known about this 48DS, other than it came from a railway wagon works in Nottinghamshire. It was noted being unloaded from a Shelby Group lorry in April 1975. A couple of weeks later, parts of what are assumed to be the same locomotive were seen from Garrison Lane bridge, in a BR mineral wagon. Presumed scrapped by 5/75.

Easy-Peasy Carriage Build or ‘How to build a carriage with no drawing, no measuring, and little time’ One of the vehicles I wanted to add to my collection for use with my ‘Firefly’-class locomotive was the early type of 6-wheel ‘open’ 2nd-class carriage. There is a full-size replica at Didcot Railway Centre, as shown below: Didcot Railway Centre – Replica ‘Fire Fly’ and train At first glance, those panelled sides might look to be a modeller’s nightmare but 3D-printing makes it extremely simple! There are drawings of this carriage, by Eddy Lane in the appropriate Data Sheet from the Broad Gauge Society, so my first step was simply to import a copy of his drawing, as a ‘Canvas’, into ‘Fusion 360’. The drawing shows the overall length as 27’ 2½“ (i.e. 108.8 mm in 4 mm/ft scale). Again, ‘Fusion 360’ makes it very easy to scale the ‘Canvas’ by means of a ‘Calibrate’ command, which simply requires the length of one reference line to be stated. Now that I have learned about some of the tools that ‘Fusion 360’ has in its armoury, I have realised that there are many aids to creating arrays of similar features, such as the regular panels on this carriage. In fact, I only needed to create four types of rectangle: ( i ) the outline of the complete side, ( ii ) a ‘window’ opening with rounded corners, ( iii ) the upper side panel, and ( iv ) the lower side panel. I simply created one each of the required types, in registration with the ‘Canvas’ . After that, I could use the ‘Pattern’ tool to replicate as many identical rectangles as were needed to complete the entire carriage side! The same method can be used both for the ends and for the internal partitions. Thus, a few simple steps were all that was necessary to turn a published drawing into a three dimensional model. The overall procedure is illustrated below: Stages in converting a published drawing into a 3D model, using 'Fusion 360' I now had three ‘printable’ bodies that I transferred to my ‘Cura’ software, to produce a ‘sliced’ model suitable for my printer. Since these individual components only take a few minutes each, to print, I laid out all five partitions together as a batch, for which the total print time was only 45 minutes. I also printed the sides and ends in pairs, with similarly short print times. Set of Printed Partitions created as a single job To assemble the parts, I fixed the ends and all the partitions to one side, using super-glue, starting from one end and adding the partitions one at a time. I then weighted the assembly until the glue had cured. Steps in assembling the components parts of the model After completing this side by adding the final end panel, I applied super-glue to the outer edges of all the partitions and the two ends. I then offered up the remaining side, pressing it into place until the glue ‘caught’. I laid the model on its side and weighted the upper surface until the glue had cured. To show the end result of less than a day’s work, I added a chassis and a roof from one of the carriages I had already built: My ‘easy-peasy’ carriage Of course, there are lots of finishing touches to add. The purpose of this short post was to show how a seemingly complicated design can be created quickly and easily, by making use of the tools available in 3D design software. Mike

I had the opportunity over the last few weeks to model up a batch of Cavan and Leitrim four wheel vans. These started out as rather odd wagons, with an external wooden frame and a central section of roof left open to be covered with a tarpaulin. Apparently they doubled up as both general goods vans and cattle wagons depending on weather it was cattle market day! As with all things C&L they were rebuilt over the years and the appearance in later years depended very strongly on who was in the workshop during the rebuild - it seems no two are the same. I've printed these at .03mm layer resolution on my Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K, print time was about 5 hours for the 3 wagons, I could have got 4 on the plate bed if I hadn't added another little project. I think this is called getting the maximum out of one print run. I've not done any clean up on these other than to remove the support structure, the bottom etches will need a bit of tidying up with a file. For reference these wagons as in 4mm scale for 3' narrow gauge and each wagon is ~ 62mm x 30mm x 32mm First up with have a van with full external framing, full length centre doors and sun roof. Next we have one with a drop down section and diagonal bracing on the centre doors. Finally we have a later rebuild with a lowered complete roof, planked centre doors and the original ventilation planks replaced. These will be delivered to the chassis workshop soon to be married with some etched chassis. This has been a fun little project and I look forward to seeing what the C&L (North Essex division) makes of them. At the same time I also drew up the back-head detail for my J17, this came out pretty well only I didn't allow enough space for the rear wheels (doh!). I think I'll probably add a few more pipe runs but I'm struggling to find any pictures of J17 back-heads. I'm very impressed with the Phrozen Aqua-Grey 4K resin, it does appear to print very nicely. David

Since the last entry, the liners Pedro has worked his magic and the liners have arrived from sunny spain. 4 brand spanking new standard size Sulzer liners manufactured to the original drawings The Liner interior showing the cross hatching and the carbon brake the end of the cross hatching marks the top of the travel for the top piston ring. At the top of the stroke the piston crown is roughly flush with the top of the liner. The liners themselves are spun cast iron (not machined from tubing) the spun casting means that when the molten iron is poured into the mould the spinning action ensures a perfectly circular bore, and a completely even thickness across the liner walls, an uneven liner wall will crack prematurely. The reason for the cross hatching is to give the oil somewhere to go as it comes out from the piston rings, without the cross hatching the oil would gravitate to the to combustion area, but also could lead to something called excessive scraping, where effectively the oil is scraped during the stroke completely from the piston leading to piston ring where and at worse the piston jamming in the liner, which will lead to the rod exiting stage left through the crankcase leading to massive engine failure. too much oil in the combustion area leads to excessive carbon build up, dirty oil, and poor combustion, high oil consumption, and a general inefficient engine. Inevitably when cold some oil does get burnt and this is a where the carbon brake comes in and oil that does get burnt will carbonise and start to rise up to the top of the liner, when it gets to the carbon brake the carbon then falls off and can be ejected during the exhaust phase of the 4 stroke cycle so effectively the engine keeps itself clean. A common issue with preserved engines however is quite often the engine isn't stressed enough to dislodge this carbon, eventually it builds up and floods the carbon brake leading to a dirty exhaust and excessive wear on the fuel injectors. The distance between the carbon brake and the top of the cross hatching indicates the area of the piston stroke where the maximum power is generated and is therefore under the highest stress, and highest temperature. 6LDAs like all sulzers are NON interference engine, in that if the timing were to be incorrect (which is pretty impossible) then the valves and the pistons will never meet causing a bent valve and a very badly damaged cylinder heads. This is why on a car the cam belt is vitally important, it keeps the timing correct, it always keeps the valves and pistons away from each other. Car engines are normally interference engines. However what is vitally important is that the liners are the correct orientation, you can see at the side of the liners a cut out, and this is where the valves go when they open, conversely you can see a cut out on the piston crown which is also where the valves go. The cylinder liners therefore have a mark which lines up with a mark on the block which ensures the liner is in the correct rotation. The mark on the liner. There are 3 sizes of liner Standard - Classes 24,25,26,27 .5mm Oversize Class 33 1mm Oversize Class 45 and Class 47 As built all sulzers Baby, Juvenile and Big used the same liner, over time bore damage was observed on the higher powered engine as a result of excessive wear 45s and 47s it was commensurate with the size of the trains they were hauling, and the time they were spending at full power, 33s reflected the fact that they were running at a higher rpm due to the ETH, this meant that the liner vibrated in the bore and left an impression on the internal bore, this lead to sealing issues and damage to liners (fretting) so as a result the engines were bored to the sizes above to reset the issue. Elsewhere the bodywork continues as we follow the step by step guide to increasing your class 26s route availability by cutting out all the filler, rot and general detritus they are carrying around. B Side, the area we saw in the last post now completely welded up with new steel and framework in the area we saw in the last post, investigations revealed the source of the water ingress (the cantrail grills and this metal has been cut back to make a modification which will drastically cut down the water ingress into the locomotive in future., a few other areas of localised corrosion further down have been cut out, this is caused by the internal fire bottles sweating, and creating condensation on the bodyside. There are 2 problems at the cantrail level The first is the bodyskin has been applied too far up and riveted to the grills themselves, steel on aluminium is never ever a good combination causing electrolytic corrosion, this weakens the aluminium, although it has been cleaned you can see evidence of this, the other issue is that you will as a result of this process never ever get a water tight seal, you can see where the body was originally riveted on the girder. instead of riveting though we will seam welding (along the line of the original rivets), ensuring a strong 100% seal, an aluminium strip will then be applied to take the skin up to the bottom of the grills and then sealed to them with a very strong mastic, to cover the join a finishing strip of D profile aluminium will then be put over the join to cover it, this has the further advantage of disturbing the flow of rainwater off the roof and keeping it off the bodyside. Further down by the radiators we can see pooling water behind the skin has pushed it away from the frame which make it just look downright ugly, this is a process known as rust jacking. On the other side of the locomotive more is present because of the same issues this will be needle gunned before the frame is primed. The next area for cutting this is the opposite side in the boiler compartment to the picture you saw with the new plate welded in. However this rot isn't thought to be as bad this side hence the smaller amount to be removed. Cutting starts with the lower portion to be retained due the unique profile the bodyside is 3mm steel its very very difficult to recreate this with 3mm steel so this steel which is pretty much rust free is being re-used. What did surprise us was the sheer amount of detritus in a sealed area under the floor ( I say sealed because this had a cover which has been cut off to reveal this) it is full the brim with dirt flies, nuts and bolts and general crud believe it or not very little deep corrosion is present, it is though that this area has never been exposed since the locomotive was built. The now cleaned out area, and evidence of the larger lumps on the floor, the smaller dust filled the vacuum cleaner twice, this area will be needle gunned, and primed with a 2 pack zinc primer, the outer guttering (which was too corroded to retain on the other side, will be retained this side. The pipes are from brake frame which controls all of the locomotives air and vacuum systems. A Side prior to cutting, the cant rail will be cut just like the other side as well. 26043 is the gift that just keeps giving and we knew an issue was present at No1 end, on a previous blog we had an similar issue at no1 end, we knew at the time No2 was similarly affected but ran out of time to correct it, we patched it up and hoped to look at it next winter....of course after that fateful oil change....we have all the time in the world...., you can see myself with a suitable appendage knocking out the filler to expose random steel plates beneath which are padding out a rather large dent!!! Dent marked out for cutting dent gone! you are looking at what's left of the communications doors that 26s were built with, when the headlights were removed poor welding (too much heat) caused the metal to bow inwards due to expansion, when it cooled the weld prevented it from contracting back to its normal position, so to fill the dent they flooded with filler (over an inch!!!) and padded it out with steel plates which were held in place with a self tapping bolt. The tank was fitted when the 26s were dual braked. hopefully the next blog will show no more cutting and an re-assembly of the engine in progress.

While I usually model British trains in N scale, I decided that it would be a good idea if I modelled some rolling stock from my home country, Korea(South), as well. Sadly, Korea does not have a proper railway model range (yet), since it is hard to get permission to license these models, and all of the designs of Korean rolling stock from 1899 to current day is all copyrighted. However, progress is being made, as many people started 3d modelling and printing their own models(not for sale), and some companies started to make models of some Korean rolling stock in HO scale (such as the GT26CW-2, KTX-Sancheon, Korail Class 8200, generator cars) but they are made of brass, and can't downscale them to N yet due to maintaining high quality, thus the HO models tend to be very expensive. Thus, a majority of Korean enthusiasts usually make their models out of paper, or repaint similar existing models(i. e. DB BR152 to Class 8200, SNCF "Broken nose" electric locos to Class 8000, SD40 to GT26CW-2, TGV or AVE S/100 to KTX-1) to model Korean rolling stock. Since a range for Korean railway models are yet to be released in N scale, I decided to go for it. Plans currently include modeling a full rake of the KTX-1, a Class 8200, Saemaul Diesel Hydraulic Car(full rake), as well as some others. This project is intended to finish in early to mid 2023, at the time of the upcoming 4th Railroad Culture Exhibit in Seoul in summer 2023. [KTX-1] [Class 8200] [Saemaul DHC] (might paint it in the original livery) But right now, I am going to work on the KTX-1 first. There are many options for me to choose a prototype similar to the KTX-1. 1. Kato AVE S/100 2. Kato TGV Reseau 3. Kato Thalys PBA (same prototype with TGV Reseau) Kato's AVE is very similar to the KTX as it has a rounded nose, but it is rare, and ASSY parts (parts of the production model in sale to scratch build or to be used for spares) are almost nonexistent. The Kato TGV Reseau is not in stock in my local model store, thus I decided to go for the new Thalys PBA. In real life, because the demand for passenger services (especially the Gyeongbu HSR, which connects Seoul to Busan), the KTX-1has a power car and a motor trailer in each end, and 16 normal trailers in the middle, whereas the Thalys(and most other TGV and TGV-derived trains) have power cars in each end, and 8 trailers. Therefore, I have to buy ASSY parts for 10 trailers. The KTX-1 Does not have a restaurant/bar car in the consist, however in my model there would be one just for a "what if." Here's a diagram of the consist. PC1-MT01-T02-T03-T04-T05-T06-T07-T08-T09-T10-T11-T12-T13-T14-T15-T16-T17-MT18-PC2 At the moment, I have the ones in bold (by the Thalys 10-car set). First class is marked in red. MT01, since is a motor trailer, is standard class, compared to a TGV's end trailer, which is first class. Therefore I also need modifications by getting the seat parts from MT18(standard class 2x2 seatings) to MT01. Since this is a 20-car set, I also have plans to modify the other power car for better traction. I can also try to modify the power cars to have the rounder look, and modify the ends of the end trailers to have grills, but as of now I don't have any plans regarding that. The one in italics is where the fictional restaurant/bar car will go. In real KTX-1 sets, in its place are 1st class trailers later modified to standard class. Thus, I need parts to make 1 first class trailer, and 9 standard class trailers. It would be a long journey, and I will keep things posted. (pictures except the Thalys models are not mine)