Jump to content
 

Bachmann BR Standard 4MT 2-6-4T


malcolmy
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I have been looking for a guide on how to fit a chip in a Bachmann Std 4 2-6-4T. I can't even work out how to get the body off! I seem to recall a thread about it in the past, but I haven't mastered the search tools on here, and it may have been on the old forum anyway.

 

Thanks in advance.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

There are 5 small screws as indicated in the assembly diagram: a magnetized screwdriver will make removal (and replacement!) very easy. As for a decoder the TCS DP2X-UK fits with no problem at all as there's no wiring harness so it just replaces the blanking plug with no clearance issues.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I don't have the assembly diagram. I checked the Bachmann website, and there isn't one there either. :(

 

Obviously there are numerous screws underneath that could be the five in question. I tried undoing two above the rear pony truck axle, two into the side tanks accessible between the leading and centre drivers and all three central screws above the front pony truck. The body still seems secured to the chassis. The rear section moves maybe 1mm away from the body, but the front is still secure. This loco has lots of pipework, so I don't want to try 'forcing' it as given my luck I'll damage it!

 

Please can someone enlighten me as to what I'm doing wrong. It shouldn't be this difficult! ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

The Standard 4 tank assembly drawing is an illusive creature, I bought a CD full of such things years ago off eBay and guess which one is missing?

 

If I ever get my hands on one it will be in the scanner faster than you can say "copyright" laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi chaps,

 

Thanks for all your help. My error was that the boiler splits from the front splashers - I hadn't realised that so was trying to part something that wasn't supposed to come apart!

 

Anyway, all running now, with a TCS DP2X-UK installed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Having acquired a second example I found a normal sized decoder (a Lenz standard) will fit on its side in the plastic recess motor side of the socket, with the wiring end of the decoder towards the motor any excess wire length can be wrapped up in the recess. There was no need to undo the speedo cable as it is all part of the chassis and the pipework on the firemans side easilly unplugged from the body. My other one now has the same decoder in it freeing up a DP2X-UK for something less spacious.

Edited by Butler Henderson
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Hi there,

 

Help needed please.  Have removed (eventually) the 5 screws retaining the body of the 32-359A but can't release the body until the speedometer pipes(?) are also removed.  Could someone tell me how to remove these pipes without breaking them.

 

Many thanks

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The representation of the speedo link to the rear driving axle is released by undoing the slotted head screw that serves as a crankpin. So far, so simple.

 

When it comes to reassembly be prepared for some careful tinkering to get the crank to which the speedo cable is attached positioned 'just so'. There are a pair of cast dogs or lugs to engage in a slot to guide you to something like the right position, but it usually needs a few tries at setting until the loco runs smoothly. Customer feedback on this device (also fitted to the BR std 5MT 4-6-0) led Bachmann to leave this feature off all future models that could have had speedo drives represented.

 

Edited to add, reseating the body at the front end is often awkward too; the mechanism needs to be inserted vertically drop out, drop in style. If it doesn't go in cleanly and leaves the front of the loco too high, remove the mechanism and restart.

 

(This model was an early introduction in Bachmann's series of 'Blue Riband' OO models. A measure of how they improved with experience is their Fairburn 4MT 2-6-4T introduced a half dozen years later. Has all the assets of the BR std equivalent in that it looks right and pulls well: and there are just three easily accessible body securing screws, and the mechanism is then a breeze to remove from and replace in the body.)

Edited by 34theletterbetweenB&D
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks 34 for the detailed answer.  Now have the speedometer assembly off (will see if the issue of reassembly appears in due course) but have now found that there is a pipe and valve assembly on the opposite side to the speedometer that is preventing removal as it is fixed to both the chassis and the body.  Any tips about how to remove this without damage?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Think the pipe and valve assembly pulls off or can be moved out of the way ; the first one I did I had equal problems getting the thing apart and I am not convinced I have refitted that assembly right. As I have posted before once apart I realised that with one internal body fixing screw undone and removed the whole of the boiler top and cab front and roof is a single piece which is then held in place by the front body fixing screw making access to the decoder socket etc far simpler - downside is that some boiler fittings may initially fall off at the first removal of that body part and need refixing and the cab roof may have a slight gap to the cab rear. Its annoying that the body fixing screw I took off  is only slight off line of a bolt through the chassis and with a little more design work  it could IMO have been made so that two screws undone would allow the boiler top to be removed saving on all the problems in accessing the interior.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks BH.  It looks as if the pipe and valve assembly is fitted to a side lug. I tried pulling on it to no avail and I didn't want to try and force it off in case it just snapped!  I will try again and see if it comes free.  Failing that i think it may be a case of cutting some pipes to release the body and glue back once I have fitted the decoder.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

There is some information about removing the body, including the injector pipes, in my Ffrwd Locks thread.

 

This includes gaining access to the cab for fitting the crew, etc..

 

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/61184-ffrwd-locks-br-wr-north-wales-near-wrexham-c1952/&do=findComment&comment=872064

 

Edited by Sarahagain
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 03/03/2019 at 12:25, Brober said:

Thanks BH.  It looks as if the pipe and valve assembly is fitted to a side lug. I tried pulling on it to no avail and I didn't want to try and force it off in case it just snapped!  I will try again and see if it comes free.  Failing that i think it may be a case of cutting some pipes to release the body and glue back once I have fitted the decoder.

 

The bracket under the cab that carries the injector pipework etc should be fixed to the body so that it all comes away together, but glue seeps down onto the chassis .......

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...