br2975 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 ........... as has been pointed out the Bagnall Bo-Bos are way out of gauge for most places in the UK. Ever so slightly Brian R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Thanks Mike, I'll keep my eyes open for them. Nice photo Brian, the SCOW ones are big for sure! Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 ........... as has been pointed out the Bagnall Bo-Bos are way out of gauge for most places in the UK. But that shouldn't be an excuse not to model them. Opportunities exist to have them operating on layouts that are on something other than standard mainline/sidings. Perhaps we need more such locos to encourage more steel works (et al) into being the next cliche layout? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 By way of an update, this model is finally complete barring finishing of the weathering and a bit of running in. Trials show that it's good for 15-20 wagons on South Junction (Plug: large EM tailchaser belonging to YMRG, exhibition invites welcome) including the curved flyunders in the fiddle yard. Extended running reveals that it needs a little more weight in the nose of the bonnet for balance, but this done, it should be a solid little performer. Unfortunately, it seems to have collected some cobwebs in its travels and though I've since removed them, I neglected to take any further pictures. Next time... Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Looks good! (Note to self - 'must get mine finished!!') Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrD Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 That looks really good! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 And, finally, it is finished, or as finished as these things ever are. Weathered to represent something well used and faded - using washes of enamels - but far from wholly unloved. Not the most amazing pictures, but at this size, perfectly acceptable I think. For anyone still interested, I hope you like it. Adam PS More pictures on the blog - see link in the sig' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Very nice. I like the hints of escaped oil from the crank pins. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Very nice Adam, lovely finish too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 Thanks for the kind words chaps. Must take some better photos when the availability of sunshine allows and get on with finishing the other Impetus kit... Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turin 60 Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Well if you are friends with your bank manager you might be able to afford to bid for this unbuilt kit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190863144365?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 HOW MUCH John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 HOW MUCH John. Crikey, that's three times more than I paid for mine! Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Looks good! (Note to self - 'must get mine finished!!') And I've started! I've decided it's about time I got on with it so today I finished putting the cab together and sweated the buffer beam layers together as well. I'll have a look at your method for the cab roof when I get that far. I'll be back!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Great! I'll look forward to it. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 This afternoon I've been fighting the front steps! As the chassis is P4 and split-axle current collection I need to not have them touch the frames - in fact, to avoid short circuits, none of the body must touch the frames - so I needed to file them down and fit the 'backing piece' (which on the real thing is the frame itself) so that there is a small gap. Some Sellotape or similar will provide insulation in due course. It's all becoming a bit 'chicken and egg'ish'. I can't solder the front buffer beam on until the steps are made (to give it support) but I can't do the final finishing of the steps until I'm sure of the final position of the beam. I'm sure it will all work out OK eventually but until then.......................................... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton961 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Another photo of these good looking engins, this one at Whitbirk Power station Blackburn in 1968. JF 4210069 of 1952. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Whiteburk Power station Blackburn JF 4210069 of 1952 in 1968.jpg Another photo of these good looking engins, this one at Whitbirk Power station Blackburn in 1968. JF 4210069 of 1952. Nice shot, thanks. This is the slightly earlier version of this style of loco, the 421 series. The Impetus kit depicts the 422 series which differs in appearance in several ways. The cab, the bonnet grills and the drive shaft arrangement from the fly-crank. I did try to draw a 421 series loco with a view to getting some etchings done 'for the experienced modeller' but I lost impetus (sorry!!). I needed to make a master for the bonnet to have some resin castings made and never got round to it. Having bought a new camera over the weekend I've tried it out this morning with some shots of progress so far on my Impetus kit project. First, an overall view on the bench with the solid brass wheels for split axle current collection - Second, a bit closer! This shows the drive arrangement with the 'Illusodrive' gearing to the fly crank axle. Note the insulating and positioning arrangement on the axle of the central idler gear that rotates freely on its 2mm axle and ensures that the fly cranks (on their own split axle) rotate the same way as the driving wheels. The two 'keeper wires' that hold the axle bearings in place are visible. They slide into sections of brass tube retainers. The dimensions of the three sections of the driven axle are extremely critical to avoid short circuits. Literally down to thous of a millimetre. Until I press the wheels on and fit it all together I really can't be certain that I've got it all right! - A bit closer still with a better view of the wheels. Turned from brass with Gibson 14mm tyres forced on. Spokes drilled and filed out - this is why I model small wheeled prototypes! The motor just fits inside the resin bonnet with a bit of judicious paring and filing and a small cutout in the cab front and floor. The frame spacers are glass fibre PCB with a central insulating 'groove', slid into brass square channel at the sides to give a larger area for soldering And again with the body dismantled and showing the bonnet location wires in the cab front, the gearbox cutouts and the 'bolt holes' in the footplate where the cab attaching 10BA fittings locate. There is also a small 12BA screw through the front of the footplate into the underside of the bonnet nose to retain it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 A good dose of proper engineering there. Doing it that way means not having to deal with those blasted whitemetal flycranks too which can only be a blessing. I like what you've done with the cab and the rear steps - is there a cab floor in there? Note that the veranda floor should have a footplate that overhangs the steps to the width of the main footplate with its own valence. What Impetus supply would have been much more user friendly that the real thing! Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 A good dose of proper engineering there. Doing it that way means not having to deal with those blasted whitemetal flycranks too which can only be a blessing. I like what you've done with the cab and the rear steps - is there a cab floor in there? Note that the veranda floor should have a footplate that overhangs the steps to the width of the main footplate with its own valence. What Impetus supply would have been much more user friendly that the real thing! Adam Thanks for the comments. I will be using the whitemetal fly cranks but hopefully they will only be there for appearances and the crank bolts will be dummy. However, this also means that I will have to ensure that the assumed crank pin position of the flycranks relates to the ones on the wheels. A bit of careful adjustment of the Illusodrive gearing methinks! And thanks (!?!) for the note about the rear steps and the cab floor! I hadn't noticed that! A bit of additional work with scrap etch beckons I reckon. Oh, and 'proper engineering'? Not me! Quality bodging and good luck more like. Another note - there is a cab floor, as supplied in the kit (more or less...........) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Today I have been mainly making a plain split axle for the fly-cranks. 1/8" silver steel, chucked in the lathe and turned down over approx. 5mm to approx. 1.25mm (note the approx., I said I wasn't a proper engineer!). Sawn off (I still haven't got a parting tool) to the approx. just over half finished length plus a bit (!). The end faced off and drilled 2mm for a bit more than 5mm, sawn off as before. A .5mm hole drilled into the side of the female half just above the bottom of the hole, this allows excess Araldite to escape when the 2 halves are pressed together. The two halves are united with a small fibre washer between (a Romford crank pin washer according to the packet - are these still available?). The washer is 1/8" diameter with a 1.25mm hole and is a sliding fit on the male half. 'Proper' Araldite is thoroughly mixed (not the 5 minute stuff) and forced into the hole (warming with a soldering iron helps) and smothered over the male part including around the washer, the two halves are then united. I have a piece of 1/2" brass rod drilled through 1/8" and the hole is thoroughly oiled and the axle pushed through with a clamp to hold the two parts together. Leave for at least 24 hours and a solid axle should result. It will then require turning to length. First photo shows the parts along with a completed axle for the non-driven wheels. Note the Araldite tubes are kept in two separate bags to avoid contamination. Next the axle in the brass sleeve and clamped. I'll let you know tomorrow if it works! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 HOW MUCH Crikey, that's three times more than I paid for mine! At that price, it will be too valuable to build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Note that the veranda floor should have a footplate that overhangs the steps to the width of the main footplate with its own valence. What Impetus supply would have been much more user friendly that the real thing! I realised when looking again at this photo in Adrian Booth's Bradford Barton 'Industrial Diesels' book that the kit cab steps may be acceptable. There are obviously several different versions of prototype! A bit of filing to angle the top corners may be required but apart from that I think I'll leave well alone! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 So there are, but that's the first of that type that I've seen. One less job so that's a bonus. I'm still in awe of the wheels - I understand the theory of doing this, but actually doing it? Good work. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 The axle has come out of its overnight accomodation and, apart from needing a bit of cleaning up to remove excess adhesive and surplus oil, seems fine. It will still require turning to the correct overall length in due course. After fiddling with the fly-cranks this morning and wondering how to fit them onto the axle with the recommended axle bush bearings in them - which are of course a sliding fit on the axle when an interference fit is necessary to hold the quartering - I think I will make my own from some thick brass I've got. I did this years ago when I built my Class 14 as the plastic Gibson fly-cranks were (to put it politely) not an overwhelming success - this loco drives via the fly-cranks as per the prototype. I will drill out the axle holes and crank pin holes in the lathe which should ensure accuracy. Note the use of the word 'should'....................... I have found that for 4-wheel locos split-axle collection in a compensated chassis works well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Fly cranks are now more or less made. Here's some photos showing the processes involved. First, the rough size is cut out of two pieces of 1/16" brass soldered together. Next, the position of the axle hole is located using the cast fly crank as a guide. The rough blank is secured in a machine vice mounted on the vertical and cross slides of the lathe. A centre drill is used to mark the axle hole position ready for drilling. The wood is merely there as a packing piece. The axle hole is drilled, first with a 2mm drill and then with a 3.1mm drill. The hole(s) will later be reamed to a force fit on the axle. The cross slide is then wound across the required amount for the crank pin throw and a centre drill again used to mark the position for the crank pin hole. The crank pin hole is (very carefully!) drilled out 0.8mm for the Gibson crank pin. This hole will also be lightly reamed later to fit the actual pin. The blank is removed from the lathe for filing to shape again using the cast crank as a pattern. Fly cranks, still soldered together, awaiting separation (blow torch!), final finishing and reaming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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