Modroc, scatter, grass

[etmsreec]

I've seen threads on the use of modroc, but there are some queries that I have that don't seem to have been answered elsewhere.

 

This is my first attempt with modeling scenery and it's a small area of hill, about 24" long, 6" deep (back to front) and rises up to the level of the tunnel portal that it's at the side of. Base is cardboard strips interwoven to the shape required. Layout is OO.

 

So, back to the modroc...

 

Some sites recommend mixing PVA with the water used to soak the modroc, and I'm sure I've seen someone recommend using additional polyfilla on it as it's put into place. So, what's the best way to lay this stuff please?

 

Additionally, when painting one needs to keep a, "wet edge," or the paint shows a line where wet has met dry. Is the same necessary with modroc please?

 

Once it's dry and ready to cover, I'm planning on covering it with an earthy-coloured paint, then covering with Woodland Scenics scatters. Is it worth considering static grass? The grass always seems too long and it sounds like a faff, using something looking like an electric tea-strainer to drop fibbers onto glue. That said, how should one go about laying scatter materials as it seems pretty important to get the thickness/density of the scattered material right so that it doesn't show too much of the underlying material through and doesn't look patchy and odd.

 

Sorry for all the questions in one posting, but they all seemed to hang together.

 

Thanks

Steve

[gwrrob]

The alternative to scatters direct is to cover the modroc with a scenic mat which you then add extra scenics and colours to .The static grass can be puffed on to this using the Noch bottle if you don't want the outlay of the Grasmaster.I would lay the modroc onto a layer of pva for the first layer but cover with several sheets for more secure holding.The mismatch of sheets won't matter if you are covering it.

[etmsreec]

Thanks Robin.

Taking advice off another thread (try it on a bit that doesn't matter before you do the real thing!) I just tried the modroc on a spare lattice of card. with only one layer, it looks like a punch card with every location punched out! There's more holes than plaster in the modroc. This was using the Javis version of the product.

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance

[HLT 0109]

Steve,

 

I have used Modroc extensively on my layout and find it very good. I have never used PVA or Polyfilla to fix it. You need a container for water and to cut the bandage into manageable pieces - say a maximum of 6" square. Place the piece into the water for a few seconds and draw it out slowly against the side of the container to remove surplus water; avoid letting the piece become folded. You need to lay the wet bandage on a firm foundation, it is no good trying to bridge a gap with it. When laid, rub your fingers over the piece and you will find that the holes almost disappear (you can be quite vigourous with that). The bandage becomes stiff quite quickly so you need to work reasonably quickly but you can build up several layers if you want. When it is dry, the area can be covered with whatever you want. If you want a rugged appearance, stiff polyfilla works well. The modroc can be painted - if it is to be covered with scatter, the colour should be a reasonable match to the scatter but not necessarily the same. It could, as you suggest, be earth colour. It is certainly not necessary to be too careful with the painting if it is to be covered with scatter. Using PVA to fix the scatter, I do find it necessary to use an excessive amount and go over the area pressing the scatter onto the covered area with my fingers, otherwise I find the shiny PVA showing through when dry. Using that method, I recover the excess with a canister-type vacuum cleaner, ready for use on another area. If you use too little scatter when doing this, you get PVA all over your fingers and ruin the job! I have not used static grass but I know others find it good; In view of the difficulty I have getting scatters to stick to the surface I have doubts about how it looks "from the sky". When all is done and dry, if you find bald patches in scatter, it is possible to spread more PVA and "over-sow".

 

I hope some of this is helpful.

 

Harold.

[ozthedog]

As an alternative why not try the so-called glue shell technique as described by Iain Rice in his book - "Railway modelling the realistic way". Its basically torn up paper glued onto a cardboard framework. Gives a good result for little cost - dilute PVA fto stick the paper on and hot glue to build the framework.

 

Cheers Keith

 

[Ken Anderson]

Can the scatter grass be placed on the wet Modroc to save a couple of stages?

Or can the scatter grass be placed and stick on wet paint work?