Greslington (N gauge layout)

[Coldgunner]

I have a minor dilemma, it looks like the platform will need to be completely custom built due to the odd shape. Not sure where to start though.

[QRModeller]

Hi Coldgunner.

 

Been enjoying watching this layout progress, I've been a silent follower since the first post.

 

Re platforms, what about trying the kit from Scalescenes.com. They're completely customizable because of the card construction method and there is a reasonable range of 'textures' to choose from.

 

Hope this helps, looking forward to more updates!

 

Matt.

[Coldgunner]

Thanks, I'll be sure to check out scalescenes.

 

Smoothed out one of my bad joins and now ready to start experimenting with ballasting. Going to do a small portion with builders sand as suggested. I know I need to use the PVA glue to stick it to the board, however does it need to be coated in PVA once laid down?

[roundhouse]

If you need more replacement sleepers then Peco do packs of them that will also fit around the fishplates without causing the track to be pushed up. If the rail does get pushed up by the sleepers then putting a hot soldering iron on top of the rails for a moment will melt the plastic around the metal fishplates but be careful you don't put too much heat on the rails especially near turnout frogs. This method doesn't work with the insulated fishplates.

 

Ian

[Coldgunner]

Thats one of the things I hadn't thought about to be honest. I've only done a small section so far. Do you recommend I paint them in rust or something?

 

I've just done a short section, seems to work ok. Bear in mind I'll be spray painting the ballast.

 

[cromptonnut]

Have you considered painting the sides of the rails before ballasting?

[Coldgunner]

After spending a couple of hours glueing, brushing and glueing etc this is what I got...

 

 

Once I've got all this down and painted I'll look at painting the rails. A back to front way of doing things I'm sure.

[roundhouse]

I use Humbrol Matt Dark Earth to paint the sides of the rails. It is easier to pint them before ballasting so as not to get the paint on the ballast. If you are going to pint the ballast into a dirty colour then painting the rails after ballasting isn't so much of a problem.

 

Ian

[cromptonnut]

What I've found useful for track is to spray from the sides with the rust colour, then spray "straight down" onto the track with the sleeper grime colour so the sides of the track remain in rust. I then lay the ballast and glue down, then when dry I have a 'cruddy wash' of white spirit, black, brown etc that i liberally flood the track with a thick brush which then colours the ballast - you can get some variations if you add more to certain spots such as where locos might sit (oil stains) to get darker shades. Make sure the room is well ventilated of course. Then, when it's all dry you can clean the top of the rails and theoretically all should be well.

 

It's a good idea to put masking tape over point blades where they meet the other rail, and hand-paint these as you then keep the relevant surfaces clean.

 

Here's a shot of a class 25 - with a fake background badly added - but you can see how my track looks with the method I've detailed above. As always, practice on a bit of scrap before attacking the layout.

 

[Coldgunner]

Those are some pretty good ideas, you've certainly had good results with that method. I need ot get an airbrush, can anyone recommend a nice cheap one?

[cromptonnut]

I picked up a cheap set from the model shop second hand - I think it was a basic Revell airbrush kit, and the compressor I don't remember the make. It's worth paying for the compressor as it gets better results.

 

I'm far from an expert in airbrushing so I can't really advise any more than that - I can do the track like that, I can spray crud on to the side to weather stock, and that's about it - I'm currently respraying an O gauge Class 122 and picked blue with full yellow ends as it's much simpler than my preferred NSE livery!

[Coldgunner]

The power is going to be located at the mouth to the yard. I'll need to drill a coupleof holes and solder in some wires and try disguise it as much as possible. Slight dilemma, do I hack up my Bachmann dc adaptor cables, or do what I have for my OO gauge in that I use some 2 core speaker wire and use my HM2000.

 

Does anyone know how I do a good road surface?

[devondynosoar118]

Look out for the output of the HM as N models will need much less power than OO. I would put in multiple feeds and solder the joiners if you want good slow running. Plenty of cheap N size controllers around second hand, cheaper than burning out a loco.

[devondynosoar118]

I have found a really good textured paint called "Rustoleum textured multi coloured finish" which makes a very good base for Tarmac in N, can also be used for gravel. It's brown out of the can so is a good base for a variety of things.

[Coldgunner]

Rotated the board and started ballasting the back. Unfortunately during a test run Deltic has developed a fault, the gears keep jamming and I can't see why, I checked for grit and the gears and I simply can't see why, hopefully I can get it repaired under warranty

 

Still got my black 5, but I need some more loco's!

 

 

 

Level crossing, trust the camera to pick up the flaws. Needs a second coat.

 

[devondynosoar118]

Did you prime it first? Easily forgotten in the rush to get started.

[Coldgunner]

Don't normally primer, I tend to double coat. I've put the second coat on now and it looks far better.

 

I've been testing some ballasting colours on a small section, is it prototypically correct for the sleepers to be almost the same colour as the ballast, even blending in?

 

Getting the hang of ballasting now, using watered down pva help seal the surface.

 

 

Ok, I need some advice here, bit unsure how to tackle this bit. Bearing in mind I have limited modelling skills I need to figure out what to do with the shed entrance. Ideally I'd like to try an open concrete area with the track embedded, however I fear that may be beyond my current skillset. I also have no idea where to start with such a feature. Below is a picture of the area that needs filling. Alternatively would it be realistic enough to be ballasted right up to the doors?

 

 

edit: That section of track on show is due to be reballasted soon!

 

 

I've tried painting an area of track by hand, not very please with the results if I'm honest. Brush painting is simply too uneven. A spray paint is in order I think.

 

[devondynosoar118]

I paint track before ballasting personally, though others do it the way u have. To do the shed, I would use plasti-card if you have not done Inset before. There is an excellent how to in this months Railway Modeller. I used polyfiller for my shed, it is fairly simple really and can be removed if you fail. Don't balast any further as this will make it harder to repair any errors on the Inset track.

Polyfiller method,

1. Mark out the INSIDE dimension of the shed on the board.

2. Cut some plastic strip or balsa that matches the height of you rails and use this to go round the edge of your shed outline on the board and up to the edges of the track, this will help shape the edges so pin it to the baseboard with track pins or similar.

3. Mix filler not too runny, otherwise it will sink between the rails.

4. Apply filler with the spreader supplied, a filler knife or scrap plasticard, don't worry about it being totally flat at this point, as long as it is up to or just below the rail head and up to you edge strip.

5. Let it start to set a bit, it is always easier to work flat and make the wheel groove when it is soft, not wet. How long this takes varies with type of filler and air temp.

6. Moisten your clean spreading tool (sounds more fun than it is!)

7. Pull it gently across the surface at a nice low angle, this should flatten the worst lumps. Repeat if required but don't worry if there are still bumps.

8. Using a piece of plasticard or an old wagon, run along the rail inside edge to make the wheel grooves, if using plasticard, start on clean track and gently push along the rail. Wagon will simply be pushed along.

9. Leave to fully dry.

10. Sand flat with a sanding block, using 240grit or better still 400 grit wet or dry (black) sand paper. This won't damage your rail ihead, especially if you use a smaller block for between the rails.

11.Clean up mess! Trial run a wagon, then if it sticks remove some filler with a sharp model knife, run along the inside edge of the rail with the blade angled out towards the filler a bit. Try a loco after another clean. Seal with dilute PVA then paint a grimy colorM

[Coldgunner]

I've repainted the section in a much darker grey now. Now that I can see it in natural light it looks more correct. Lightly sanding removes the paint from the sleepers to reveal the original colour. Further ballasting and painted is going to wait now until I've properly connected the power supply.

 

Update on the signal box. Only the steps to add. I've painted it in a way I am happy with, its not entirely neat or prototypically accurate, but it certainly doesn't look out of place. The camera brings up the imperfections and at the distance its going to be seen at, it'll be fine. Besides, I'm pretty cack handed at painting anything.

 

 

On a further note, this is the first real plastic kit I've done thats required painting from the outset and was a slight learning curve for me. No doubt future buildings will look better as a result.

[Gloucester Road]

Looks good. Its all about learning new techniques and pushing your abilities, keep it up.

[devondynosoar118]

Looks great, well done.

[Coldgunner]

Been thinking about names for my little world, I wanted a traditional english name that is fictional.

 

Greslington? A slight play on the 'Gresley' name, my favourite loco engineer.

[devondynosoar118]

I see from the title a name has been decided on. Works well I think.

[Coldgunner]

Is there someone who makes custom brass nameplates in 1:148?

[devondynosoar118]

Try Modelmaster?