Cl.37 D6801 simple detailing job?

[mirreles31]

Hi All, to avoid hijacking anymore of Penguin of Doom's (Sean) thread and with a subtle nudge from Jon020, I decided to open this thread. As the title suggests the topic is detailing the latest Cl.37 D6801 from Bachmann. I didn't intend to post anything as it was to be a quick job, adding buffer beam details and that would be that, so I havn't taken any intermediate progress photos. The quick job has turned into a project hence the post. I like to think most of us aspire to do a better job next time and therefore evolve our modelling skills and standards, and I hope some of you might get some inspiration from this, as I have from others such as Sean (PoD, where this started ). Anyway enough waffle, first pic is out of the box D6801 with tension locks removed.

The usual smooth running Bachmann product in BR green livery as delivered new to Darnall Shed Dec. 1962, smack in the middle of my era/area interests (very nice of Bachmann I thought ). The next pic shows D6801 as work in progress today.

I'll attempt to fill in what's been done so far; Before I started any thing else the bogie ride height was lowered. At the top of each bogie gear tower there is a plastic mount with a central column for the screw, To each side of this are two raised tabs which bear on the chassis block which has two more corresponding tabs cast into it. I removed the plastic tabs from the top of the gear tower mount with a scalpel and a bit of filing. (The plastic mount can be removed from the bogie to make this easier, it's held bt two small screws). The job is far easier than trying to describe it, believe me . I can't take credit for this method as I got it from another RMwebber (34C I think) a benifit of this site. Now that done the buffers needed attention. As supplied there are no sprung buffers. I have come to expect them, so decided to fit some. I aquired some steel, large diameter oleo buffers by 51L from Wizard Models. These came with springs but I chose to use some Heljan spares I had as they are softer and I do use the buffers for what they were intended, as i use 3 links etc. Fitting was easy, the buffer housings on the model were already drilled and set up for this purpose! So I slotted my heads in and slipped collets on the rear of the shanks made from small diameter cable insulation. this was the fiddly part ( best done before the pipework's in place!). Next the buffer beam detailing.

A cruel close up with some tweaking to be done yet. To fit the air control pipes at the outer ends of the beams it was necessary to make a mounting piece for each side and drill holes to receive the pipes. I used the air control pipes (black with white ends) from a Hornby Cl.31 acc. pack X3526. Two packs were required to get 8 pipes, but there are other useful items included. Now comes the expansion of the job, looking at prototype photos I noticed more and more details under the nose and this is where things get carried away!. Anyway one job at a time, sand pipes were bent up from fuse wire and added to the pieces I'd just fitted the pipes to. This done said pieces with pipes etc were glued to the bottom of the buffer beam, each side. The beam now started to look 'busy'. Next I fitted the Bachmann dummy screw coupling, these are the newer type and look quite good. I then added the as supplied vac pipes & Heljan sourced steam pipes. The Bachmann MU cables are a tad too thick to my eyes so I cut the orange ends off drilled 0.5mm holes in these and added a loop of fuse wire. Although the plug end is still a little large these look ok at normal viewing distances. All was looking good until another look at at my pics revealed a bang plate and a grid of connecting pipes across and below the beam running behind the array of pipes! This is where I started to think I was mad even contemplating it . Decided not to then got on with it all the same. I bent two pieces of scrap brass up to forn the bang plates then soldered three pieces of 3 amp fuse wire to the rear of this. I strengthened the outer ends of this with small pieces of brass wire soldered on. Now to fit this in bewtween the bogie front and mass of pipe work (wubble!). I'll just say I did it and have done, it was fiddley! Another pic here

Other additions can be seen in the 2nd pic. I added what look like stop cocks of some sort to the recesses on the outer ends of the fuel tanks/batteries? (not an expert here) which are something to do with the sand pipes which lead from them. There is also some kind stop cock central to the tanks. I used parts from the Cl.31 acc pack for the sand pipe cocks and the middle smaller one was from a Cl.08 acc pack.

There are other jobs being considered now thanks to input so far by Jon020 and thanks to Sean for hospitality on his thread . In the spirit of the thread, this started as a simple stick a few pipes on job and now look at it!!! I am pleased with this so far and enjoying the way it's unfolding. I hope any readers get at least a bit of inspiration from this tale. I wiil carry on until it reaches my full satisfaction, how much more and how long? Who knows, but it is fun. . Cheers Phil.

 

edited for typos

[sb67]

Looks fantastic so far, are you going to weather it?

Steve.

[the penguin of doom]

Some great pics and decent work Phil.

 

I'll be looking in periodically for some inspiration, but don't be a stranger of on P.o.D's thread.....

[mirreles31]

Hi Guys, thanks for kind words.

Steve- weathering will be the finishing touch and D6801 is very much still in the raw at mo. Don't hold your breath tho' I've a weathering backlog as long as me arm .

Sean, no intention of missing inspiration that comes from your thread .

Cheers Phil.

[Trevellan]

Nice job Phil. I have a few Bachmann and ViTrains 37s to tackle, so your thread is very helpful. I confess I have never had an issue with the ride height of the Bachy 37. For me, it's only really the prismatic glazing that tends to spoil the face, but I appreciate the limitations of the material. The LaserGlaze solution looks very promising, but I'd be a little nervous of hacking lumps out of such a prominent area of the model!

[mirreles31]

Hi Trevor, thanks, one of the reasons I dropped the body on the bogies (it's only about 1mm) is the buffer height, as I use 3 links and they need to be aligned to avoid buffer locking. The Lazer Glaze option is always open, however as I have mentioned in Sean's thread I would have to redo about 30 locos to maintain a uniform level of detail (and that hacking bit!). The prismatic Baccy glazing isn't an issue for me as the ride height isn't for you, as long as we're enjoying the hobby who cares .

Happy modelling Phil.

[Jon020]

Aha... found you. Well done Phil. Glad to see that you've taken the plunge and pulled it all into one thread, which will be a useful reference. I did wonder about the bogie towers - I guessed they'de be the same as the 55s' as I've blogged that before and my method is exactly as you describe. On my current 55, I really remove lots of this material (more than just the lips) and even flattened the screw heads a bit to get that "low" loo. If its the same as the 55, there will be two ridges on the underside of the chassis block which could laso be filed down - although these are harder to get to.

Your points are all noted and will be saved away for a future date when I tackle mine. Nice buffers by the way - I thought that the originals were quite good, but these are much better.

BRs... Jon

[mirreles31]

Hi Jon thanks for looking in, you're right on all counts about bogie towers etc, I considered grinding the pips off the chassis casting but didn't know how this might affect the smoothness of swing of the bogie (if that makes sense). Anyway I'm happy with it now. From my perception of the Baccy 55 the ride height seems to be slightly higher than the 37, out of the box (might just be me) however I've no need for any Deltics in my area of interest, however I've a Heljan DP2 on order to take a turn on the 'Master Cutler' thats pretty Delticish! . The original buffers were ok but I'm spoilt by sprung types now and as mentioned (I think) above they're useful when using 3 links. Had a nosy at your post in Sean's thread, nice work on that buffer beam. Back musing on the nose end steps now, from what I've seen so far there were at least 2 different types and some lost them in later years. I don't think they're the same as the Deltic either.

 

Cheers Phil.

[the penguin of doom]

Hmmmn.

 

I could have sworn the steps on the 37 and 55 looked the same! I'll have to get a decent picture to see what they really look like. How do the 50 steps compare? I took delivery of some today. Interestingly, they were from Craftsman, but were stamped up Shawplan.....

 

How curious.....

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

[mirreles31]

Just had a look at the photos I originally started working from (in Marsden & Fenn bk). There's a pic of D6700 in almost new condition without nose steps! Then a pic of D6828 as new with what look like long steps (ending just above the level of the bake push rods on the bogie) with a second rung up near the intact valance. A pic of D6705 (Apr. '67) with short steps no 2nd rung appears in 60's D&E Days Remembered (Kevin Derrick-Strathwood). Same book- D6823 has the same as D6828 long steps with rung, D6715 same as D6705, also D6817 with shorter steps. The shorter stepped locos appear to be the split H/C box type (apart from D6700 as above, without steps) and long steps being fitted to central H/C box type. (now getting in deep here ) Were the steps added to the design after initial service experience? And of course later some refurbed locos lost them, no need for climbing the front to maintain H?C boxes? The 37 steps seem to be hung at an angle, tucked into the corner of the nose (they were of course attached to th buffer beam I believe) The Deltic step seems to have strengthening plate behind the step toward the top. After all that I'm off for a coffee . Cheers Phil.

[mirreles31]

To add to last post, some very rough sketches of the steps being discussed (at least Ihose I have found so far).

As noted before the short steps seem to be attached to split H/C box locos. The longer type seem to be better thought out and attached to centre H/C box locos (this is my interpretation and in no way definitive ). The 55 & 50 doodles are just for comparison (same get out applies ). The shorter steps appear to be easily deformed and slightly different shapes can be found at varying angles. The long steps seem more robust.

 

I've decided to knock my own up, as I found pics of D6807 & 8 both with short steps, from which I can assume D6801 would have been very similar. Will post method when I get round to it .

 

Cheers Phil

 

Edit: I left the 37 valance off for clarity.

[45125]

Just a minor point, why has it aquired what appears to be a Western lamp bracket on the secondmans side?.

 

Regards

Al Taylor

[mirreles31]

Hi Al, you've got me there , I havn't added any lamp irons at all and it certainly shouldn't have anything WR on it as it was based in sheffield from new, as depicted. I honestly can't see what you mean, could you elaborate, all info gladly received. I'm no expert on driver/secondman positions unfortunately so don't know where I'm looking . Cheers Phil.

[Jon020]

I think that what he means is that the thickness of the plastic of the nearest lamp bracket makes it look as though it's a western "region" lamp that were end-on to direction of travel rather than flat face forward as all others are (western has to be different doesn't it)... I'll get my coat.

On these Bachmann ones, sometimes, I use a file to thin this section a bit - so it looks a little flatter in appearance and less of a square cross section.

Hope that explains what, I think, Al meant

Jon

[mirreles31]

Cheers Jon, I was stumped there but I see what you mean, I'd noted the thickness of the irons and so I think I'll take your idea on board and tweak them with a file. Either that or replace with brass strip, oh no there I go again , filing I think. Thanks to both posts it'll make it a little better .

Cheers Phil.

[Classsix T]

Hi Phil, and gang.

I bought a couple of the previous 37/0 releases (038 and 2XX) and did the mod to correct the over deep buffer skirt, including fitting crisper OLEOs slightly higher up. As you have lowered the body of your 37, am I to take it Bachmann corrected the depth of buffer skirt and buffer height?

Also, with the body lowered, how do the buffers compare in height to other stock?

Apologies if you have mentioned any of this, but I wouldn't mind lowering mine and at the same time am wondering whether to keep buying the older ones or go for the newer release

C6T.

[mirreles31]

Hi C6T, I have never had experience with the older Baccy 37s (this being my 1st!). However from what I can gather Bachmann seem to have corrected (or at least made a bit better) the points you have mentioned. Apparently on the older models the bogies were slightly too wide as well. Any way to get back to things I do know , the buffer height was lowered to correspond with other locos in my fleet when I dropped the body (only about 1mm but it makes a difference). The bogies appear to be the correct width on this model. As for whether to carry on buying the older models that has to be your choice but I know there is a slightly different route to correcting the ride height on these. I think Jim Smith Wright of this parish has some info on this subject on his personal website, a link to this can be found on any of Jim's posts (look under Birmingham New Street).

 

Hope this is of help, Cheers Phil.

[Classsix T]

Thanks Phil,

Looks like the Mk3 version is the one to go for. Six axle drive too.

Shame they're 30 quid dearer!

 

C6T.

[mirreles31]

Thanks Phil,

Looks like the Mk3 version is the one to go for. Six axle drive too.

Shame they're 30 quid dearer!

 

C6T.

Glad to be of help,good luck with your projects, Cheers Phil.