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This is going to be a bit of an adventure into the unknown. I've previously scratchbuilt a 44/48HP loco using traditional techniques of marking and cutting plasticard by hand but this time I'll be cheating a little. For this one a fellow user of a Land Rover forum that I use has offered his services in the use of CAD and I'll be using a set of laser-cut parts to make the basic body shape.

 

I measured up a loco and marked the dimensions onto a line drawing so how that's translated to plastic is anyone's guess at this stage. I won't know until I get the parts in the post.

 

Just in case you don't know what an 88DS looks like, here's the one that I measured.

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Here are a few screenshots from the CAD work.

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It could all end in tears...

 

 

Watch this space. :O

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  • 2 weeks later...

The parts have arrived!

 

post-494-0-82746700-1321460128.jpg

 

I'll put them up against the drawing before I do anything. Of course there's no frame end weights/buffer beams, no axleboxes and no roof or engine compartment cover. All these will have to be scratch built by hand.

 

Further sets of cut parts can be made from the CAD files so I'm thinking of making just one axlebox and one end weight as patterns for either resin or whitemetal mouldings. Does anyone know what extra dimensional percentage needs to be added to acccount for shrinkage for these materials?

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I have made a start. The material is called Rowmark and although it looks like plasticard it isn't easily worked and has an upleasant smell to it. It goes together with plastic weld and sands easily.

 

post-494-0-55810200-1321728037.jpg

The front section of the engine compartment, laminated and trial fitted. As all but the outer piece were plain I had to cut out the centre of the second from front so that a grille can be fitted behind the outer piece (which has a laser-cut aperture for the radiator grille) as cutting a piece of mesh to fit this aperture precisely would be extremely difficcult. This is when I found that Rowmark can't easily be cut with a Stanley knife. I had to resort to drilling holes and using a saw!

 

 

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Sides, part of cab and front part fitted. I've given the front part a coat of paint so as to show up any spots that need more sanding to hide the laminations.

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  • 3 years later...

It was never even finished. When it came to covering the top of the engine compartment I tried to use thin plasticard and royally messed it up. I abandoned it.

 

TimC, of this forum, had a set of parts from the CAD work and built his into a nice little loco but other than that the parts were never intended to be made available for purchase.

Tim also had axleboxes made and I have a set so, one day, I may have a go at building one of these again.

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Although somewhere I have some dimensions from Dave & I'm slowly learning solidworks... I think the bonnet top & radiator shell (and detailing bits) lend themselves to 3D printing more than laser cutting. I might get around to doing something with it someday as BT&S needs a Ruston or two!  

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Although somewhere I have some dimensions from Dave & I'm slowly learning solidworks... I think the bonnet top & radiator shell (and detailing bits) lend themselves to 3D printing more than laser cutting. I might get around to doing something with it someday as BT&S needs a Ruston or two!  

 

Please do! Although, I would advise using 3D printing to make masters and have urethane (or maybe whitemetal/pewter) casting for the bonnet. I've been advised by some people in the 3D printing world that the cheaper materials will break down after about 10-12 years.

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