modelmaker87 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hi Guys, Been awhile since I posted here on RMWeb. Thought I might post a small project on another of my freight cars for those interested. Here's my starting point, I always remove a few bits to make it easier to work on. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetuk Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Looking forward to progress on this. Is this a RTR car and if so how easy did the ends come off as this area has always been a tricky area to weather. Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hi Tony, Ooh yes! Please continue, I have a few cars like this to do! Cheers, John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Looking forward to progress on this. Is this a RTR car and if so how easy did the ends come off as this area has always been a tricky area to weather. Dan Dan: It's an IMC (Intermountain) car. Yeah, weathering the ends is always a tough job unless you remove the cages. They usually come off fairly easily. I use a #10 Swann Morton and gradually lift each glued area a little with the blade until I break the glue bond. Little here, little there until all the joints break. They break easier than you might think. Go careful, slow and they come off fine. I have had one or two good joints and where these are it will require actually cutting into the plastic at the seam of the joint. Again not a big deal if you go super careful. John E: Hope you enjoy this build. Any questions when you do your cars, ask away. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 My first big job on all my cars is replacing the couplings. My preference is to use the exact scale Sergent couplings. This image will give you an idea of its size against the larger over scale Kadee #58 and the really really overscale Kadee #5. I placed two #5's in the image. To fit the Sergents I remove a section of the original coupler pocket. To ensure a positive fixture prior to glueing the Sergent coupler pocket in position, I drill and fit a pin. Nothing worse than a glued joint breaking during an ops session. And the Sergent coupling assembly fitted. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Making small improvements I replaced the stirrups along with the bottom rung of the ladder. I also added the slot at all four ends of the sill. Images are 'before & after' shots. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Tony, I assume that the "Sergeant" comes with some kind of template to determine its' placement? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Tony, I assume that the "Sergeant" comes with some kind of template to determine its' placement? Best, Pete. No Pete, it doesn't. be nice in a way if it did. I checked their website, since you asked, and I see no mention of a locating jig or similar. Here's their site: http://sergentengineering.com/ What I do is first approximate how much material I need to remove by eyeballing the position of the end of the knuckle. This can be determined accurately by checking the prototype and establishing the dimension over strikers and if that isn't possible another less accurate method I have used is to measure the end of the original knuckle from the end face of the car and position the Sergent cplg at the same dimension. If needed I will remove a tad more plastic to move the knuckle and c/box in toward the main body of the car to get the right position. Once I'm satisfied with the location I take a drill and spot a dimple using the available hole. You can see in fact where I have done that in the stage 1 image. Really Pete a lot depends on the minimum radius of your layout. The new layout I am building right now has one radius down as low as 25 1/2". This being the ruling rad I then test/check my work and as long as a pair of cars coupled with Sergents don't coupler lock, then the position is good and operational. If in doubt do not pin the coupler pocket, test the running of a pair of cars over your min radius and ensure they will go round all the curves laid on your layout. Then you can drill and pop the dowel pin in if you wish. For me, my layout being something close to a prototype mine run up in Wise County, VA. the maximum number of coal cars I'd pull in any one train will be no more than 16, little chance of a Sergent getting pulled off due to an adhesive failure. But there are occasions when I take stock and power to a friends layout and train lengths start getting closer to 75 to 80 coal cars and all with live loads. I.E. real coal. Its then that coupling strength means something, particularly with live loads. For small layouts, mine currently under build, is no larger than 15 ft x 12 ft as well as the popular shelf design layouts, coupling strength I wouldn't think is an issue, unless the modeler used stale 'beyond sell by' date adhesive. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Pete, I found this for you. Cheers, Tony http://www.sergentengineering.com/cdist.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meld Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Making small improvements I replaced the stirrups along with the bottom rung of the ladder. I also added the slot at all four ends of the sill. Images are 'before & after' shots. Cheers, Tony Hi Tone. Did you 'mill' these slots out with the small drill ( which I assume you have done ) , or some other way like File or Blade? Cheers, Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Pete, I found this for you. Cheers, Tony http://www.sergenten...g.com/cdist.htm Thanks, Tony! Reminds me of that monster Box Car that I photoed on Bayonne - did you check out the couplers on that? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Hi Tone. Did you 'mill' these slots out with the small drill ( which I assume you have done ) , or some other way like File or Blade? Cheers, Mike. Mike, I first drilled a hole (a round one ) then using a K file I made the elongation in both the North & South directions. Thanks, Tony! Reminds me of that monster Box Car that I photoed on Bayonne - did you check out the couplers on that? Best, Pete. Pete, I'm afraid that box car was a bit too distant to determine exactly what style couplers it had fitted to it. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meld Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Mike, I first drilled a hole (a round one ) then using a K file I made the elongation in both the North & South directions. Cheers, Tony Tony... ! Thanks for the explanation too, B). Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Couple of changes I made to the end cages. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 It's the small details that make the difference Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 So you had me wondering what a K file was - did a google - and I wound up ordering double set off ebay - I think they will make fitting some railings a bit easier - Thanks, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Hey Jack, I found out what they were the hard way during a root canal. Ouch..!! I use them on brass as well as plastic. Glad my dialogue here helped someone. Good on ya man, a tool you'll not use often, but when you need it = Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 After making these small mods I moved on to the weathering. I start off with what I call pre-weathering. This is a coat of very light dirt that any car would get covered with during a month out in revenue service back and forth a few times across the country. At least that is what I aim for anyhow. First image shows one of the sides which I have hit with DC* mixed with a single drop of enamel in a cream or dirty white color, any off white to sand/cream color will do . I have also added some drops of dirty water around the walkway supports where they meet the roof and let the drop run where it wanted and let it evaporate, this leaves the first of the stains in these areas. I do this prior to the overall coverage of DC*. The remaining images show where I have added some brown to my air brush mix and focused the air brush more to the edges of the support structure. Whilst having my air brush in hand I also give a quick lick of paint on the underside. You will notice a darker brown in the corners of the end structure and I do this by adding some burnt umber acrylic deposited using a No 5/0 brush and then touch the top of the corner with water so that the water drains down the corner pulling an amount of acrylic pigment with it and spreading it down the corners of the plate construction, vertical and horizontal. Obviously the horizontal plane I have to tilt some to get the water to run along its natural path. You can also see that I have replaced at this stage the brake wheel with a superior Kadee offering. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 T. Can you clarify: DC*? Cheers, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meld Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Hi Tony, Been on a Week of crapola earlies, but - DC* HUH?? I Prolly should know this ( Mike. EDIT :- Duh'O! DULLCOTE - Ar*e! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Pete, Meld...Yep Dullcoat* it be. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Pete, Meld...Yep Dullcoat* it be. Cheers, Tony DC with ice and a slice .....is the preferred tipple of US weatherers .... Regards Trevor .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I hesitate to ask, why the asterisk? Best, Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 DC with ice and a slice .....is the preferred tipple of US weatherers .... Regards Trevor .... Nothing out there betters it. I hesitate to ask, why the asterisk? Best, Pete The US forum style of adding a copyright designator. Most firms accept this acknowledgement used on the forums. HTH Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshine coast Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Tony, will you be going as far as this example ......hit by giant pigeons !! http://www.krunk.org...kt-2-medium.jpg interesting that the trucks have rusted differently ..... Regards Trevor .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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