Resin filler

[pewky]

Dear all,

 

I have a resin kit with a lot of imperfections, I have bought a filler for plastic "plasto" from revell. I have not tested it yet. In case it does not work what would be the best filler for a resin kit:

• Milliput, which one? curing time?
  
• Tamiya, curing time?
  
• Humbrol, curing time?
  
• green putty, curing time?
  
• Halfeord curing time?
  

Thank you

Luc

[TimC]

Hi

 

I use Squadron Green putty (and White putty too - no preference just whatever I have to hand) on 7mm JLTRT resin kits and its fine - I use them on plastic kits too. Drying time depends on how deep your fill is - a scratch then say 30 minutes to be safe (probably could be sooner), something more structural (say blending in a roof to form a dome on the front of a DMU) then I'd leave overnight before getting at with the grit paper.

 

The one thing I find with filling is that it is an iterative process. I have to have two or three goes at it, each time getting nearer to the desired result. Then eventually you prime it and you see yet more imperfections so get at it yet again.....

 

I've not used the others in your list except the Humbrol model filler and that is very similar to the Squadron putties.

[Ben Alder]

Games Workshop have recently brought out a tub of liquid Green Stuff that is easy to apply and has no smell. Its only available in the one size but does its job well.

[Castle]

Hi Luc,

 

I have used all sorts of fillers over the years for both models and full size stuff and I agree with TimC about his choice of filler. I have use it on plastic, metal and resin kits successfully. I certainly wouldn't use Milliput to do moderate holes to fine surface filling on resin as it will end up far harder than the resin of your model and that way madness lies... It is great stuff and has its uses but not that. It takes a while for Milliput to really go off but can be 'forced' a bit with a hair dryer. I haven't used the stuff you say you have so I can't comment on it. I noticed, like Ben Alder, the Games Workshop filler stuff but despite buying a tub yesterday, I haven't had cause to use it in anger yet. Halfords car body filler can be useful too and can be made to go off fairly quick if you mix a little more hardener with it but it needs to be mixed in fairly large quantities to get a proper blend of hardener and filler that usually prevents it being useful for our ends. In preference though, go for a specific model one as this is less likely to do funny things chemically.

 

As TimC says, it isn't just a case of using the filler but a coat of primer on top after you have rubbed it down with fine wet or dry paper and you think you have it flat is the best idea. You will almost certainly find it isn't! The key is to be critical and let things dry properly between operations. Looking at the job in different lights can be (excuse pun) illuminating too.

 

As for drying times, a little trick you can use if you are not sure is to blob a little bit out on a piece of scrap material in a similar way to what your job was. when that has gone off then you are good to go on your precious project piece. You can poke and prod the bit of scrap to your heart's content and without fear of consequence to your model. You inevitably end up with some wastage anyway, especially with the Squadron stuff as you cant put it back in the toothpaste type tube it comes in, so why not use it? Make sure also that the resin is clean and degreased before you fill and paint too.

 

I hope all this waffle helps!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

[ngtrains.com]

Here's a trick if its air bubbles you are filling in the resin - fill the hole with baking powder. tap the piece to tamp it down in the hole and then top it up if needed. When the powder is right drip a drop of superglue on it - enough so as its all wetted - and leave to dry. The result files and sands just like the resin.

 

this trick also works if you want to reinforce a joint, add baking powder, hold the model and tap it so the powder forms a fillet along the join, add supeglue and let is set

[Kenton]

Games Workshop have recently brought out a tub of liquid Green Stuff that is easy to apply and has no smell. Its only available in the one size but does its job well.

 

Ben, this sounds interesting. Are there any reviews for it - particularly in my case for use on metal. I am a fan of Milliput for metal but not on resin for the reason given above. But then I also tend to avoid resin anyway. It is interesting though as I have also found Squardron Green very hard when set, never having considered a softer alternative - which I guess pretty obviously would be better for resin.

[Ben Alder]

Couple of links to reviews -here- and -here-.Also a You Tube one below- they are focusing on resin models, but I have used it successfully on plastic. One user suggested diluting it slightly to help it to flow into cracks.

 

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rImzUkVusU8