kandc_au Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Hi guys, Halfway through applying this dressup kit but want to know what others have done re buffers and hosepipes. The body of the Railcar fit snug at the ends and the original buffers went through both the body and chassis. Have those who have used this dressup kit, used the same method of having the buffers go through both body and chassis or have to cut them flush with the inside of the body? I would assume that the same will apply to the hose pipes. Thank you for any and all responses. khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Kris, just for information the latest Hornby models have large diameter buffers more in keeping with the prototype. They are available as a 'Spare Parts' (pack of ten) from the usual suppliers. I am not familiar with the Westward Kit but if this is only whitemetal I would guess that the Hornby buffers are a better bet especially as they continue to act as fasteners between chassis and body. Regards Ray PS Are you using flush glazing - I couldn't get the tiny windows to fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Hi Ray, Thanks for that. The connection isn't an issue as such, as it has 2 screws holding the body anyway. The whitemetal buffers I had to straighten the buffers themselves so I will try Hornby ones. Yes I am going to flushglaze...was going to do it this evening but will probably do it tomorrow now. Will let you know how I go with it. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Ray/all, I have been fitting the flush glazing, including the tiny windows. The only issue I have with the tiny windows is that they collapse so easily. As the instructions say: you do need to clear out the openings. The reason being that the injection moulding has a taper to the windows to release, that is, they are wider at the outside than the inside. For the flushglaze to work, it needs to be flush at the outside with the frames, NOT only at the front but at the sides or I should imagine it would look ghastly. Also, before I actually glue these in position, I have read that it is best to paint the side of the frames ?????? what colour, please, anyone? Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Khris Could you post some pictures please? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I used liquid glazing for the small windows. I also did away with the screws holding it together and just rely on the buffers. Also cut away the section with the dummy hook and fit a decent screwlink and vac pipes directly into chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Kris, I was very pleased with the flush glazing I used for some Lima Mk1s (long since sold on eBay). I didn't use any glue or any paint and simply held them in place using the existing Lima glazing: http://www.flickr.co...eds/6946907416/ I used the same fitting method for the Lima Railcar, no glue, no paint and I kept the existing Lima glazing (again long since sold on eBay). http://www.flickr.co...eds/6946906682/ http://www.flickr.co...eds/6946905560/ As previously noted I couldn't get the small windows to fit. I emailed 'Flush Glazing' for advice and they did not reply (not good). I did not fit glazing to the front windows, firstly I wanted to keep the window wiper and secondly I couldn't use the Lima glazing for holding in place and would have had to cut up the Lima glazing and use glue! Hope this helps Regards Ray PS If you open the railcar pictures and view the 'original size' you will get a better view. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Thanks Jules. Looks good. I am removing the dummy hook and putting in a screw links. The Flushglaze in a large window looks good but the tiny ones I find hard, to not deform. I would think the best way to fit them is to actually fill them beforehand but getting the filling out would be an issue then...seems a no win. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 The problem with the flushglaze pack is it does not take account of the missing vertical pillar in the triangularish cab side window. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hi all, Butler, Yes that is an issue, so I will have to use a liquid window like the plane modellers do...I think you call it Krystal Klear. First pic is with 2 lots of small windows in place and you can see how the plastic has deformed. The first window also has the main Flushglaze window in it in this pic. The front with the westwind replacement frames fitted. The Cream has been resprayed and the black buffer beam has been painted The front handrails were also removed before painting. Have to do the roof yet. Hopefully these pics are not to large. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Pannier Tank Posted April 20, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 20, 2012 Jules, The 'Drive Shaft' between the Axles was removed in BR Days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Khris, Now that you've painted the new drivers side window frames cream is probably not the best time to say that they were only like that in BR blood & custard livery. In the GWR livery they were painted using the mahogany brown/indian red as used on coach droplights. See the photo below of the Didcot example which corresponds with contemporary photos. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hi Nick, I had noticed that BUT the the book by Judge and another I have there appears to be a mixture of Cream and Mahogany, so I went with Cream Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hi Khris, I suggest you take a closer look in the Judge book. I think you'll find that all of the examples with cream frames are either the earlier types (up to No 18) or they are in BR blood & custard. It's easy to distinguish the liveries by the numbers, GWR are all "No XX", BR are all "WXX" or "WXXW". Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hi Khris, I suggest you take a closer look in the Judge book. I think you'll find that all of the examples with cream frames are either the earlier types (up to No 18) or they are in BR blood & custard. It's easy to distinguish the liveries by the numbers, GWR are all "No XX", BR are all "WXX" or "WXXW". Nick Nick, You have beaten me to it....I am currently eating humble pie ....... Better I find out now rather than later though. Meanwhile I have just fitted the handrails at both ends below the windows. Now to the Passenger door ones. khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 20, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hi Khris Have you re-motored it? Mine never ran very smoothly and the lack of all wheel contact was obvious. I have just replaced the appalling Lima pancake with a Black Beetle bogie and made the trailing bogie all contact. It now runs like a dream. I have replaced the weight with some lead about 2/3 it's size and used the space released to put in a DCC decoder. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Keith, No not remotored. I have replaced the wheelsets, and once that was done it has run like a dream for the couple of times I have run it. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Pannier Tank Posted April 20, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 20, 2012 I have just replaced the appalling Lima pancake with a Black Beetle bogie and made the trailing bogie all contact. It now runs like a dream. that's encouraging as I've just purchased the same! Did you go for the 15:1 or 27:1 Ratio? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 25, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2012 that's encouraging as I've just purchased the same! Did you go for the 15:1 or 27:1 Ratio? Hi David I went for 15:1, although I originally thought I might have picked the wrong ratio - it is equivalent to only 30:1 with a 6' 0" loco wheel I'm using DCC & Traincontroller and the speed profile goes up to about scale 70mph. If that is close to what the real thing achieved it is OK. The problem I found with the original motor was that it was a bit slow getting going and then speed built up with a rush. Making it run at a crawl was impossible and the single sided pick-ups made it less than sure-footed across points, even though I use code 75 Electrofrogs. The speed profile with TrainController was a most peculiar shaped graph. The Black Beetle and all wheel pick-up have transformed it, it will run through points at a scale 4mph, or less, steady as a rock. Cheers Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Hi all, Butler, Yes that is an issue, so I will have to use a liquid window like the plane modellers do...I think you call it Krystal Klear. First pic is with 2 lots of small windows in place and you can see how the plastic has deformed. The first window also has the main Flushglaze window in it in this pic. The front with the westwind replacement frames fitted. The Cream has been resprayed and the black buffer beam has been painted The front handrails were also removed before painting. Have to do the roof yet. Hopefully these pics are not to large. Khris Hi Khris, One product that I have had luck with is 'Testors Model Masters Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker', item no. 8876C. This is another product aimed at the aircraft modellers, but works well where small windows need replacing, either coaches, locos or buildings. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cnw6847 Posted May 4, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 4, 2012 Keith, No not remotored. I have replaced the wheelsets, and once that was done it has run like a dream for the couple of times I have run it. Khris Khris, What make of wheels did you use to replace the lima ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 CNW, Um, Umm, After hunting through my Pm's with no luck I have found the info in an early post...Ultrascale wheels. Just in case it is any help, here is an earlier thread I had started with questions. There just may be other info you want there as well: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/17587-lima-gwr-railcar/page__fromsearch__1 Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cnw6847 Posted May 4, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 4, 2012 Thanks for the info and link Khris, very useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 The Railcar has been finished and weathered Overall I think the Westward kit is worth the time effort and cost for these railcars. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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