Painting a 7mm IGA Cargwaggon flat - using acrylics, colour modulation, and artists inks for wood effect

[tomstaf]

Hi,

 

I’m not going to repeat the build process on this forum as Brian Daniels demonstrated that very well recently. But my painting technique is different so I thought it might be of interest. I've decided to try a different approach having visited a few military model shows and invested in some Vallejo paints and AK Interactive weathering products. There are two main differences to conventional model railway painting. The first is the use of Baroque techniques used by artists such as Rembrandt. In modelling terms this is known as colour modulation. By using light and dark to exaggerate the details and different surfaces the model takes on depth and contrast. Although it's artificial it does a good job of making the model more realistic in my view. I have highlighted the recessed areas black which will darken the blue on those parts. I will also use about 5 different shades of blue to provide tonal contrast on the different surfaces of the wagon.

 

The second is to incorporate the weathering into the painting. I have painted various shades of brown onto the ends and side stanchions before the main blue colour. Tomorrow I shall apply some AK Interactive worn effects solution on these areas before I spray the blue. A short while after the blue goes on, take an old toothbrush and start rubbing away. The result reveals the rust colour.

 

I also wanted to make represent the grain on the wooden planks on the deck. I'm still developing this but I've used an etch wood mask and Daler & Rowney artists inks. I'm planning on using a little thinned Indian ink to add the grey hue that worn wood on wagons takes on. The first time I used a base brown that was too light for my liking. It looked more like plywood than hard wood to me.

But the advantage of using ink meant that I could simply wipe off the wood grain and spray a darker base brown on. I decided to leave 2 light planks to represent replaced planks. The Indian ink will tone them down enough to blend in but still be lighter than the rest.

Bogies are rarely black on the real things. So I started with a very dark grey for the base colour. Various shades of grey will be used and then some light browns for weathering. The rust colour on the wheels is probably too light but when it's running it'll be enough to show them up when running it.

 

More to follow soon.

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[brian daniels]

Cracking job Tom.

[rs4]

First word that sprang to mind was "brave".

 

I'll retract that and just say "wow". Looking superb.

[N15class]

I am interested in your weathering ideas. I think the wood graining is very good.

I also think it is wasted on models. If you look a a worn dirty wooden deck, it is hard to see the grain when standing on it. If looked at from the scaled up distance you veiw model trains on a layout. The only thing you see is colour. This means if you can see the grain in model form from normal viewing distance it is to large or coarse, not to scale.

[tomstaf]

It's all about perspective Peter. Sometimes the wagon will be on a layout and it'll be a blur of colour at that stage. Other times it'll be sitting on a display stand where even more detail is necessary. As it's O gauge it's far more obvious. As it stands there is still a 'grey ish' coat to go over this so it'll be toned down. Whether it ends up being obvious after that remains to be seen. But what it will do is provide a lot more colour in to the mix creating depth. The eye will be tricked into seeing some form of texture. Watch this space...

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[jonas]

I think in some cases in order to make something look realistic in a larger scale, you have to paint what the eye expects to see rather than what it would from 100 feet away (or whatever). Looking at a model of something you still expect to see the same detail you would looking at the real thing - in some ways you scrutinize it even more than you would if looking at the real thing.

 

There is a similar debate in the aircraft modelling fraternity about how obvious the panel lines on an aircraft are - they look good on a model as its what you expect to see, although in reality the panel lines are often very subtle! I can see how the grain effect provokes a similar debate.

 

I will be watching this with interest. Although I model in N I think we can all learn a lot by looking at model makers whatever their subject or scale.

[N15class]

I think in some cases in order to make something look realistic in a larger scale, you have to paint what the eye expects to see rather than what it would from 100 feet away (or whatever). Looking at a model of something you still expect to see the same detail you would looking at the real thing - in some ways you scrutinize it even more than you would if looking at the real thing.

 

There is a similar debate in the aircraft modelling fraternity about how obvious the panel lines on an aircraft are - they look good on a model as its what you expect to see, although in reality the panel lines are often very subtle! I can see how the grain effect provokes a similar debate.

 

I will be watching this with interest. Although I model in N I think we can all learn a lot by looking at model makers whatever their subject or scale.

 

 

Yes I agree that somethings need t be more prononced. A good example is road cobbles the scribing of the joints are alway deeper than the joints in real life. But with graining, even lovey LNER teak coaches you see the subtle colour changes not the grain. Unless you get up close. Most wagon decks end up a silvery grey more often than not and are even quite smooth. To me graining it and or scribing begins to make it look unreal. I am sat looking at my front door in which I can see the grain the one across the road is just golden brown in colour. These were finished to enhanse the wood. The weathered shed is just various shades of silvery grey from even quite close.

It is always difficult to know what to add or leave off your models. Needless to say I am following this with interest. Mainly as I think there are some good ideas floating about. Plus I will probably have to rethink my own thoughts of graining, if he pulls it off.

[tomstaf]

A little update on the colour modualtion taking shape. Hopefully this clearly illustrates the effect of using white and black undercoats. There are several different shades of blue used too. Next step is to add the transfers, then add a few more shades of blue (with a brush) to pick out the raised details. Can you spot where the different shades are?

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[Gazza]

Hi Tom,

            were you at DEMU yesterday carrying the IGA around n a box, I think Ispoke to you at the SHAWPLAN stand?????

[Revolution Mike]

Gazza

 

Yes, he was indeed - jolly nice his big blue thing looked as well

 

Cheers, Mike

[tomstaf]

Hi Tom,

            were you at DEMU yesterday carrying the IGA around n a box, I think Ispoke to you at the SHAWPLAN stand?????

Ya,

 

That was me

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[tomstaf]

Hi,

 

Another update. I've completed the painting, which just leaves the remaining weathering to be done. The wooden cross beams are real pieces of wood whereas the decking is my painting effect. I think I need to tone it down a little further but I'm quite pleased with how wooden it's looking.

Cheers

 

Tom

[tomstaf]

I'm producing my wagon in a slightly more recent version by which time some of the decals had been modified compared to those on the transfers sheet. The 4 updated transfers that I'd like to include on my wagons are these ones:

 

 

I've got dimensions of them. Anyone on here fancy having a go at producing them please?

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[Gazza]

Hi Tom,

         just do it from photo shop

[Pugsley]

Or download the DIN1451 font from here:

http://www.fontyukle.net/en/1,din

 

And use Inkscape (free) to make them yourself - you should be able to load the photo of the anchor and CT symbols into the background and trace over.  Precision Labels or Red Firecracker both have the ability to print in white.

HTH

[hammy]

Tom that wagon looks superb

[tomstaf]

Kind of forgotten I'd posted this here so time to update it. The painting is done and after a few coast of Vallejo varnish the weathering is almost complete now. I've used a range of techniques: oil dots for a slight fade, enamel filter for a general layer of grime, and then tiny dots done with 0000 brush for chips and spots of rust.

The scratches across the Cargowaggon branding were done with by dry wiping a sponge across it with ivory and cream acrylics.

I've been careful to use slightly lighter weathering tones towards the base of the wagon where the light is always un-obsecured. The top will nearly always been in slight shadow by the deck overhang. I don't want the effect to be too pronounced otherwise it'd look too fake but enough so that the eye can just make it out without realising so.

I need to add some dust to the top decking as well as some rust residue from the steel loads and then it's done. As you can see I'm not a speedy builder I'm having done this one, the 2nd ought to be a bit quicker.

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[rs4]

Superb Tom

 

It's just looks SO MUCH LIKE the prototype when built in 7mm.

 

So another 10 or so for a decent rake ?!

 

; )

[Jon Fitness]

Just about the best bit of wagon weathering I've seen! Nice work.

Jon F.

[tomstaf]

Thanks guys,

 

I've got another one on the workbench but I'm tweaking it so it'll be the version with the turn over bolsters.

 

They don't usually run in block trains rs4, tended to be 3-6 of them tagged on to various feeder trains. The exception to that is the converted ones to the long welded rail carriers. I'm basing my model on 6S75 (Hoo Jn and other bits of London to Mossend). It usually seemed to have 2-4 on Hoo - Wembley chunk of the train. Plan is to mix the rake up with some IHAs, tanks, and some bodied Cargowaggons too.

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[ThePurplePrimer]

Very nice work

[bobster]

Superb Tom - First class work.

 

Cheers, Bob.