PGC Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Hello all. I am building a model of a BR (ex GER) E4 2-4-0 - the kit is a Nu-Cast by Autocom product. The kit has been trying to avoid detection in my kit store for a long time but now I've dragged it screaming from the cupboard and so far I've created a basic body. Having created the basic body I turned my attention to the chassis. After some rapid deliberation I discarded most of the bits included with the kit and used alternative components (ironically, mostly from the new Alan Gibson!) to build a chassis that, even though I say it myself, runs beautifully - at home I currently only possess a single yard length of track to test locos on yet the chassis still took over 3 minutes, powered from an old H&M Duette on High Resistance and Half Wave, to run from one end to the other, and that's before I put grease on the gears and oil on the bearings. So, I've got a running chassis and a partially compete body; why not try joining the two together? What could possibly go wrong? The moulds that the body were produced from (I suspect they may date back to the days of Stephen Poole - anyone old enough to remember that name?) were obviously built for OO gauge, but as a man who models to the peculiar gauge of EM, I obviously need to widen the body apertures (Gok, please turn away now!) so they'll allow for the extra width of wheels and coupling rods set to EM rather than OO gauge ones. This is where I need help. I have tools such as a Minidrill with a flexible drive and several options such as small grindstones or sanding disks that will carve away the white metal, but the white metal will almost certainly clog these tools faster than Jeremy Clarkson writes off a Renault Twingo 133 ( ). So, how do I cut chunks of white metal from the inside of the body? I have tried cutting the excess metal away with a modelling knife that has a new blade; needless to say the blade worked well for a few seconds but lost it's sharp edge rather rapidly. Thanks in advance Phil PS - In case it doesn't show, the beer voucher ration was diminished tonight, I'm not usually this funny!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 A picture would have been useful to see what you were talking about. For splashers have you considered carefully sawing around them so they come out in one piece, then deepening the hole to the required width. Solder splashers back in correct position. With whitemetal I find I use a variety of cutting tools for any modifications; razor saw piercing saw with a coarse blade, Stanley knife and scalpel. Another option is to replace the whitemetal splashers with ones made from brass. It all depends how much extra clearance you want to gain ion each side. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gruffalo Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Mini-drill fitted with a burr tool will work, use it at a slow speed and dip the cutting head in white spirit frequently to limit the clogging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 It is possible; I have one of these which was EM gauge when I bought it. I just replaced the Romford axles to take it back to OO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 46444 Posted August 1, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2013 Morning Phil, This would be a nice build to see some pictures of. The E4 is a very distinctive loco and not often seen modelled. Totally agree with you and the problems you have encountered trying to make room inside the body to accommodate the motor and wheels. I'm currently building a Nu-cast J15 and came across similar problems with internal clearance issues. In the end I did use a bur fixed to a mini-drill to enlarge the firebox area and underneath the splashers. It did take a bit of nerve especially when doing the splashers but I got there in the end, Hope that helps? Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Hello again everyone, Lobster Phil here (spent the day on the beach yesterday, don't think I will today!) Thanks for all the replies. Gordon, I don't mind cutting and refixing, if that's what has to be done, but being naturally lazy, I'd prefer not to do this if I can avoid it! Your point about a picture is one I hadn't thought of and as 46444 has asked for pics I'll get some put up. Fortunately I don't have to take out too much metal - I've used a Mashima 1020 motor with flywheel and a High Level Roadrunner Compact 50:1 gearbox and this all fits quite neatly in to the cut out designed in the kit and it doesn't show under boiler or footplate (it does, however, protrude in to the cab a little more than I'd like, but I'm deliberately modelling 62785 that has a tender cab (I've got the etchings for this from a friend who's built an Alan Gibson kit and didn't use the tender cab) and when I've painted the inside of the cab black and put a crew in the motor won't show). This means I only really have to worry about side play and couplings rods catching in inside of splashers. I've built the chassis using Alan Gibson etched mainframes and compensated it using a fixed rear axle (which is also the driven one) and a pivot beam between front and middle axle. I've stopped side play on the front and rear axle so it's really only the middle axle that I need to worry about, and with care I reckon I can get away without cutting too much metal away ye the loco will still go round 3ft radius corves. Here's where I keep my fingers crossed! Mini-drill fitted with a burr tool will work, use it at a slow speed and dip the cutting head in white spirit frequently to limit the clogging. Gruffalo - This interests me - rotary burr tool at slow speed I understand, but the white spirit bit I don't. How does white spirit make a difference? As promised earlier, I will take some pics and put them up - please just promise you won't snigger, guffaw or laugh out loud, I'm a sensitive soul. Honest! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Hello all Following advice from a couple of readers, I looked at my tools. I thought I had some rotary burr tools in my collection but when I tried using them to remove metal, they didn't do very well. They may have worked better on butter, but to be honest I'm not certain about that! Having failed miserably with the tools I had, I searched the web, found a supplier of burr tools, ordered two and having returned from a break in Cornwall, the burrs were waiting for me. When I spoke to the supplier, they confirmed that for removing whitemetal, the burr should be regularly dipped in white spirit, paraffin etc. What this does, I don't know, but having used the burrs in this way they've helped remove the excess whitemetal (in one small case, they've removed too much, ahem - out with the filler!) so many thanks for all the advice people offered. Now the Summer holiday is over I will have the opportunity to take some pics and put them up to show the work I'm doing, so watch this space! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Well, long after I promise to take some photos and put them up, I've had the chance to get the camera out, so here's some pictures of what I've got so far. The left hand side. As you can see, I've bought some burr tools and put them to use to try and get clearance for the wheels and coupling rods in the splashers, unfortunately, a little too effectively. Time for some more filler! (that's what the white bits are - I started filling gaps while waiting for the chassis bits to arrive). I have deliberately filed away the banding on the cabside round the rear splasher - it's not on the loco I'm modelling. The right hand side - intact! I've not yet filed the banding of the splasher away. The cab showing how much clearance there is - I may well use some plasticard to hide the gearbox but as I'm deliberately modelling a loco with a tender cab, I will wait to see whether it's really necessary. The chassis - it runs very well, even though it's not yet been oiled or greased up. Once it's been lubricated I have very high hopes of it running like the proverbial sewing machine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 OK, I'm not as quick as others on this forum at making models, so it's been a while since I posted anything. I've now been busy with the burr tools and cut away enough of the inside of the body that the chassis runs as sweetly with the body on as it does when the body's not on, so I'm happy. As you'll see from the photo's below, the burrs were slightly more enthusiastic (OK, I didn't control them that well, really. Perhaps I should go to burr training classes - would I get a frosty reception? (very bad joke!!!)) than I'd have liked and I now have a little bit of filling to do, but you should see how many white metal bits I've got on my workbench! This picture, and the one following, show where I've used the burrs to remove the excess material inside the splashers etc. The copper clad at the front (right hand end in the top photo) and the plasticard at the rear (left hand end) hold the chassis centrally in the body. I've yet to sort out how to actually fix the chassis in the body, that comes some time in the near future! Showing the holes on the right hand side that need filling after the burrs have got excited. Showing the holes on the left hand side that need filling after the burrs have got so excited they didn't know when to stop! Again, showing the mouse holes in the left hand footplate, but for a bit of vanity, in the background is the latest almost completed project from my workbench, a J17 that only needs it's front lamp irons added then it's in to the paint shop. A Stelfox body with scratch built chassis using 50:1 gears (I think a Branchline gearbox but I'm not certain) and a Mashima 1020 motor. It runs like a dream, and that's before it's had a decent running session to bed things in. It makes me a happy chappy to watch it run! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert17649 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 like the j17. Have no fear the E4 will be ok inthe end, they are lovely locos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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