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How to build vee's


Guest jim s-w

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Hi All

 

the sticking point of handbuilt track is generally perceived to be the good old Vee. After all all points need them and a layout without them isn't really that much fun!

 

In reality though theres nothing difficult about building them its just a cast of right tool for the job and knowing what to do - the final element being practice. After all without practice no amount of wishing is going teach you how its done.

 

There are many ways and what follows is mine, theres nothing new or original about it but it works for me.

 

building%20a%20vee%201.jpg

If you are not going to build a lot of pointwork then you can just buy your vee ready assembled. If you are then the filing jigs available from the EMGS will pay back their initial outlay many times over. This is the larger one and I am using the 1 in 9 angle (it will go up to 1 in 12). Simply put you just pop your rail in and file off the bit that sticks out. You are supposed to file bend then file again but I dont bother as you cant see the end result anyway.

 

building%20a%20vee%202.jpg

The same jig can be used to hold the rails at the right angle while you solder them together. As I am using plastic sleepers mostly I solder the Vee to a base plate of Nickel silver for ease and strength.

 

building%20a%20vee%203.jpg

Again you can use the jig to set your angle for your wing rails, Once you have built a lot of points you tend to get very good at bending angles by eye! This angle was my initial bend with flat nosed pliers, not bad hu? It was a smidge out though so a gentle tap with a small hammer brought it spot on. Alway over bend and tap the bend to get it back.

 

building%20a%20vee%204.jpg

Using a ruler for the alignment of the rail and a gauge to set the wing rail gap the check rail is soldered to the baseplate.

 

building%20a%20vee%205.jpg

The ruler cant be used for the other rail as the vee in in the way. I line this rail up buy eye. By using a base plate you can always unsolder the rail if its wrong and try again. Theres a lot of metal here and heat will sink away pretty rapidly so you will have to really go some to accidentally unsolder the vee

 

building%20a%20vee%206.jpg

Finally the excess baseplate is gut away with a slitting disk in a minidrill. Holding the drill at an angle helps to hide the baseplate. I also gently tidy the vee itself with the minidrill so that there are no jolts on the sides. Dont forget to give it a wash so that any left over flux is removed. These views show the front and back.

 

One thing that crops up from time to time and seems to get overlooked by those who know how to build track is the orientation of the rail. With bullhead rail the fat bit is at the top not the bottom.

 

Including taking the pictures this vee took half an hour to put together. (well 32 mins actually!)

 

PLEASE NOTE - the picture shows my preferred method of using a gauge to set my wing rails . The gauge I use is not the correct gauge for the job and while it works for me there are proper check rail gauges available (I lost mine years ago!)

 

Hope this helps someone.

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...
Out of interest, does anyone know if you can get one with a 9.25 Vee?

 

I guess that's for FB S&C?

 

If you have the time to wait Colin Criag's new items may be a huge help. Saw his stuff at Scalefourm and it was superb!

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The maker of the original jigs died I believe which is why supplies to the S4 Society at least have dried up. I'm not sure if EMGS is now sourcing elsewhere.

 

I got both my 5,6,7,8 and 9,10,11,12 on here 2nd hand. No one does 1/2 or 1/4 jigs though afaik. We officially have a 7.5 to do on a slip.

 

They really do make the vee easy to do while watching tele though and save a fortune even in a small yard layout!

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  • RMweb Gold

I guess that's for FB S&C?

 

If you have the time to wait Colin Criag's new items may be a huge help. Saw his stuff at Scalefourm and it was superb!

 

Yea it is for FB stuff,

The plan was to use Colin's parts for the padrol clips, along with the switches and check rails. but for the Vees I really wanted to make them myself as there is one part of the layout with points very close together. (a crossover with 2 other points close to it.)

Using a ready made Vee for these would give a very short rail length that I'd prefer to avoid.

 

Guess I will have to file them the old fashioned way......

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  • RMweb Gold

It would be protoypical though - maybe best as a cosmetic joint in your case?

 

Cosmetic definitely sounds like the best way to go. One of the big problems I had on Blackcombe was that the clay hoods short wheelbase resulted in having both axles going over a joint at the same time. Something that Ideally I would like to try and avoid this time round!

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