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O14 chassis for a Wrighlines Baldwin 4-6-0


49395
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A couple of days ago I received a test etch for a replacement chassis for a Wrightlines Baldwin 4-6-0

 

post-6837-0-84982700-1423996995_thumb.jpg

 

It is designed round a high level 54:1 gearbox which will drive the rear coupled axle.

 

I'm building this to 14mm gauge although 16.5mm might be possible.

 

There's a chance it might also fit the CW railways 3D print, although I don't have one of these.

 

Each frame comprises 4 layers to achieve a scale thickness of the real loco's bar frames.

 

post-6837-0-33660000-1423997018.jpg

 

The layers are pinned together with small pieces of 0.45mm wire, 2 of the frame spacers and the bearings, then tack soldered together.

 

Once both frames have been assembled, the chassis looks like this

 

post-6837-0-57629200-1423997031.jpg

 

post-6837-0-27290600-1423997046.jpg

 

In these photos the rear bearings are soldered in place and the inside is filed back to the frames to allow space for the gearbox, the others are currently an interference fit until I have finished the rods, then I can check the spacings with jig axles and fix the bearings in place.

 

A couple of parts from the Wrightlines chassis will be needed, the crossheads and possibly the slidebars, although the slidebars may need to be done from scratch.

 

Finally, a photo of the chassis that was with the Wrighlines kit for comparison

 

post-6837-0-03594400-1423997065.jpg

 

Thanks for looking

 

Mike

 

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This is looking very impressive......

 

When the time is right, might this etch be available for sale? I have a Baldwin I built to 16.5 many years ago that I should like to re-gauge to 0-14 (I was planning to do it the hard way.....!)

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Thanks Giles,

 

Once I'm happy with it I'm quite likely to offer it for sale, I currently think a different gearbox and larger motor may be required based on comments on the NGRM forum.

 

It appears there are a few people interested, although I'd probably be just supplying the etch and a list of recommended components

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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A quick update on the chassis.

 

I managed to complete the rods this evening and test the chassis with the current motor.

 

It is just about capable of moving the whitemetal loco body but it was struggling, so a bigger motor in the boiler rather than the firebox is going to be needed, along with a different gearbox.

 

Here's a photo of the body test fitted on the chassis.

 

post-6837-0-81057200-1424124018.jpg

 

Some packing will be needed but its looking like this should work, smaller bogie wheels will definitely be needed.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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A small update on this.

 

I have found one or two small corrections to make to the etch, the cylinder mounting needs raising slightly and a couple of pieces need a small change in size.

 

Also I now feel confident on the slide bar dimensions so these will be added, along with some balance weights.

 

These alterations will mean only the cylinder castings and crosshead are needed from the wrightlines chassis.

 

Once I've built up a chassis from the revised etch I'll be in a position to offer it to others.

 

So far there's nothing major wrong with the current version that can't be easily solved with a file or some packing which is a relief.

 

Once the new gearbox arrives I can finish this test chassis and see if there's anything else that needs altering.

 

Thanks for reading

 

Mike

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  • 3 months later...

It's been a long time since I updated this, but progress is ongoing.

 

I have a couple of bits of brake gear to add to the prototype, which should be getting a decent test run tomorrow night.

 

I'll post some photos when I get chance, but it's coming together.

 

The etched cross heads worked, and the chassis is running reasonably well

 

Chances are I'll be ordering some more of the etches for myself in the next month or so once the first loco is fully completed.

 

There's a couple of little issues that have cropped up on the current etch, but I'm happy enough that I can work round them so I doubt I'll be doing any further revisions.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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attachicon.gifIMG_3765 - Copy.JPG

 

Some packing will be needed but its looking like this should work, smaller bogie wheels will definitely be needed.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Hi Mike,

If you're thinking about changing the bogie wheels due to the lack of clearance on the rear ones (nota paring under the frame) then don't worry - they shouldn't.... The bogie should also 'lead' the loco into the curve.

All you need do is add a wire hoop to the inside of the bogie above the rear axle, of such a size that contacts the inside of the frame just before the the opposite flange does. This prevents the wheels from touching the frames and drags the front of the loco into the curve. I did this on my 0-16.5 Baldwin (which I shall convert) and it has worked a treat for many years.

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Thanks Giles,

 

Very clever, I hadn't thought of that.

I've ended up using wheels 7mm diameter rather than 8mm, they don't look too under scale.

The photo of the etch in my post above shows how I've got round the clearance issue, the innermost layer of the frame is the correct depth (and prevents being able to see right through)

The outer layers all have an area removed to clear the rear bogie wheels.

 

The loco will have to handle a scale 30 metre radius curve (like the real thing) so I wanted all the clearance I could get!

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Mike - presumably if built for O-16.5 this would be less of a problem......assuming the wheels fit inside the motion of course.....

 

Does you etch include the motion?

Edited by Jeff Smith
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Hi Jeff,

 

It should fit, the extra width would only be 1.25mm each side and it appears the cylinders in the wrightlines kit may be slightly over width to accommodate 16.5mm gauge

 

As a result I've had to bend the con rods outward slightly to fit.

 

The etch does include all the motion.

 

Tonight's test run went brilliantly, I may need to adjust the centring on the front coupling a bit but I was expecting that, photos should hopefully follow tomorrow

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The easiest way with the etch as it is would probably be to elongate the bearing holes.

Hornblocks would be tricky.

A beam between the front two axles may be possible with a fair bit of work.

 

The frames end up approximately 1.5-1.7mm thick since there are 4 layers of etch each side.

 

I had considered making the chassis compensated but it's taken me 3 years to get this far and it would need a lot of extra work to the CAD drawings.

 

If the loco had used plate frames rather than bar frames it would have been easy and I'd have designed it in from the start.

 

As it is, it's basically a load of holes bolted together so there's hardly any room for hornblocks without getting some custom made

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I think you could use the Bachmann solution (seen on my P4 Pannier conversion) ie keep the front and rear drivers fixed and spring the centre axle with the axle allowed up and down movement of about 2mm just by hole elongation. All the weight is basically over the drivers so the bogie could be lightly sprung down and centred or pivoted.

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That sounds like a good option.

 

The 5 of these chassis that we're constructing for our layout will all be rigid.

 

The rods are jointed so some movement should be possible.

 

If using the wrightlines kit, I've found the centre of balance is slightly behind the lead driving axle, which is likely carrying a lot of the half kg or so of the loco's weight

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Mike - I am new to O-16.5.  My experience so far is with the Peco/Branchlines GVT tram loco.  The chassis is compensated and the body is heavy.  It is an 0-4-2 with a fixed driver and beam between the other driver and the pony truck.  So far when running the weight of the body and the narrow gauge causes some instability around tight (18") radii and can derail.  I'm working on a solution but if building a Baldwin I would perhaps favour the lighter weight 3D printed body over the white metal one.....

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I'm hoping that this will go round a 27" (scale 30 metre radius) curve without any difficulty, I managed it with a Hunslet 4-6-0 (just) and the Baldwin will hopefully be easier to sort.

 

If we were starting to build our layout now and didn't have the wrightlines kits already, I think we'd be using the 3D prints.

 

I think it should be easier to hide the motor and gearbox in one of those as well since a smaller motor should be possible.

 

One thing I am changing is the derailment beams, I'm replacing the cast parts with plastic.

 

Hopefully as and when derailments happen it'll reduce the number of short circuits that occur.

 

As promised, here's a photo of the loco as it is at the moment

 

post-6837-0-21005700-1433430734_thumb.jpg

 

I should be able to take a couple of photos of the chassis itself later tonight.

 

Edit: If I have my calculation correct, with a 1428 motor and 54:1 gears, the scale top speed is about 16mph

Edited by 49395
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It's looking good - I'm getting a bit jealous!  Were disc bogie wheels the standard fit?  Pictures of the GVT Baldwin show 6 spoke wheels but these may have been fitted by B-G during the gauge conversion etc.

 

Do you have any idea of price for an etch - PM me if you do not want to go public at this time.

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Thanks

 

All of the photos I've seen of them in original condition have disk wheels.

 

As ever, working from photos is key!

 

I'll get on to the etchers and find out the likely cost, I'll be posting details on here and NGRM when I know.

 

It's unlikely I'll have time to write instructions for a couple of months, we have 2 exhibitions coming up with the layout (which needs quite a lot of other things finishing) and ideally I want to take photos of each stage of the build of the next chassis, now that I have an idea what I'm doing!

Edited by 49395
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  • 1 month later...

I've finally managed to complete my first Baldwin with the new chassis etch

 

post-6837-0-68314200-1437237436_thumb.jpg

 

It'll be running on our O14 layout at Goathland show again tomorrow.

 

Once we've got past our next show in just over a month, I'll be in a position to order some more etches, then I can build the next one and come up with some instructions.

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  • 6 months later...

This is a tremendous improvement to an otherwise really very good kit. Have you managed to produce all you needed? I'd be really keen to acquire a couple of chassis etches, did you ever get a quantity produced, or could this be organised?

 

I've got an unbuilt kit yet to tackle, plus a pair of Baldwins bought second hand which I would love to convert if I was able to tackle the kit successfully.

 

Thanks,

 

Ben

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This is a tremendous improvement to an otherwise really very good kit. Have you managed to produce all you needed? I'd be really keen to acquire a couple of chassis etches, did you ever get a quantity produced, or could this be organised?

 

I've got an unbuilt kit yet to tackle, plus a pair of Baldwins bought second hand which I would love to convert if I was able to tackle the kit successfully.

 

Thanks,

 

Ben

And another potential customer here too!

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Thanks everyone for the interest, it's been a bit of a shock how many of you have enquired about my chassis design

 

I guess I'd best post an update on where I am with these chassis.

 

So far I've got one finished (see above) it doesn't look like I'll get much chance to build another to make a comprehensive set of instructions before the tracks to the trenches show in May.

 

If a basic parts list and a few photos would be enough for you I might have chance to sort the costs for a chassis before May.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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