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Building better CEMFLOs


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First take twelve Tri-ang Hornby Blue Circle cement hopper wagons.

 

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Discard the chassis, and cut off the bodies immediately above floor level.

 

File and sand off the raised logo detail from the body mouldings; and carefully thin down the vertical support ribs by filing.

 

The Tri-ang Hornby bodies are 5mm. short, to fit a standard chassis, so they must be 'stretched'.

 

They come in two parts - the lower and upper parts of the covered hopper; they're not glued together but simply pull apart.

 

The lower part can be stretched by cutting off-centre by 2.5mm., and gluing the two longer parts from two mouldings together - use an upper part as a 'splint' whilst the joint dries to ensure correct alignment. When you run out of lower bodies to cut 'nearly in half', you can use the shorter parts, with an additional 5mm. section cut from an offcut. The cuts can be anywhere between the inner vertical ribs.

 

Stretching the top part of the moulding is only a little more complex; two cuts are necessary to start with, 2.5mm. either side of the central walkway. The central section, combined with the ends cut from another upper moulding, hard up against the ends of the walkway, can be glued together using a lower moulding as a splint.

 

As you go on, and depending how many scale length CEMFLOs you are building, you can start to use the offcuts to build up full length mouldings. With a little thought, I managed to produce eleven full length bodies from twelve short mouldings!

 

This sounds complex - it isn't, and the photo below should illustrate what I have written.

 

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That is the most intricate bit done - you now have scale length bodies; add some weight before finally sticking the upper and lower mouldings together.

 

The rest is straight-forward; build scale length chassis from styrene sections, sheet, etched axleguards etc., cast springs, axleboxes, buffers, etc., and fit 12mm. disc wheels in brass pinpoint bearings. Don't forget the lower part of the hopper and the discharge equipment.

 

The completed models were cleaned-up and primed - this is where I had a problem !! I used standard Halfords grey primer, which etched the plastic and made what had been invisible sanding scratches VERY noticeable !! Lesson learned - used Halfords plastic primer on plastic models !!

 

I then applied Silver Wheels spray paint; touched in with Phoenix satin black where appropriate; added my transfers; and sealed with Klear varnish.

 

The photo below was taken during the finishing process .....

 

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..... and these after the fitting of brake handwheels, and just awaiting couplings.

 

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Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
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  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
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Looking good John. I too have a box of yellow and grey Cemflo wagons that I have wanted to re-work for a long time. Now you have given some info on how to modify and extend the tank parts maybe I will have a go myself and do wagons with both types of suspensions with the differing strengthening plates on the solebars to model them in service in the early 1980s before they were withdrawn.

 

Cheers Paul

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Looking good John. I too have a box of yellow and grey Cemflo wagons that I have wanted to re-work for a long time. Now you have given some info on how to modify and extend the tank parts maybe I will have a go myself and do wagons with both types of suspensions with the differing strengthening plates on the solebars to model them in service in the early 1980s before they were withdrawn.

 

Cheers Paul

 

Paul.

 

The links below may assist :-

 

http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/images/51lcomp/phsbrc040.jpg

 

http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/images/51lcomp/brc025.jpg

 

http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/images/51lcomp/brc041.jpg

 

http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshire%20models%20and%20supplies%20website_111.htm

 

http://colincraig4mm.co.uk/#/hand-wheels/4532593494 (CC06D)

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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  • RMweb Gold

I currently have irons in the fire for;

Solebar strengthening plates. Currently at test etch stage.

Vac cylinders. Looking at pictures stage.

Correct axlebox/springs. Adapting an existing set of castings stage.

Looking also at the possibilities of casting a correct body tub.

Just need to find time to get to Darlington for a measure o thon for all the other bits.!

 

Mike.

 

Edited for update.

Edited by Enterprisingwestern
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  • 8 months later...

Hi these look really good and I'm having a bash at making a few of these myself but I'm a little unsure of which w irons to buy. As some of the items are from wizard models would the comet models br pattern w irons do?

 

So long as they are described as BR Plate type, you should be OK - I think that I used MJT's version.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Ta! Great thread........I've been buying a few of these from Chris's Crafts in Plimufff, usually about £3 a pop.

 

They are in the rainy day box, along with other bits and bobs to eventually 'sort out'!

 

I must admit, I wasn't aware of the under scale body......until now!

 

Cut and shut seems to be the way..........just need a rainy day to try the 1st one!

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  • 1 year later...

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