woodyfox

I've used a two part epoxy from Halfords that is designed for use on steel. It was applied to a gear and axle on a big DJH class 47 in o gauge that weighed several kilos. As you can imagine the torque at the gear axle interface was high. It worked well. I filed a rough surface onto both axle and internal bore of the gear and degreased both with IPA and meths to ensure a good bond. Cheers

The HST cars now have bogies attached to the chassis. These need to be run in before DCC conversion. There are two synchronised sounds chips on order from DC Kits loaded with Paxman engine noise. Meanwhile, playing trains continues: Here a mid-morning inbound 108 DMU working crosses the river. The clickety-clack brings back memories of old 'tin cans' rattling along: Followed a few minutes later by an EE type 3 bringing in ECS for a lunchtime KX service: This will return with a Deltic... Cheers Stu

The HST cars are now at the stage where bogies and below sole-bar details can be added to the chassis. Here's the n/s tabs in place to secure the bodies with a single brass bolt and tab: And the power cars secured on the chassis: I have several things on the go with this project at various stages of completion. It enables me to flit from one to another avoiding the tedium of repetitive tasks that generate boredom. One such is the construction of a 100+ room low relief hotel next to platform 2. There are a lot of windows to make up and lots of masonry details to add. This will have an upper pitched roof in the central section with windows too. The ground floor will sit below the gutter level of the station trainshed roof. Cheers Stu

Hi, Today has moved me a few steps nearer to having the most successful train ever to grace a British railway run a SO service to 'the Cross'. This is the completed nose cone tab adaptation. This will slot into here: This provides the correct ride height and leading bogie position on the power cars. On the rear I have drilled a hole in each of the rear vestibule doors to take a small bolt: I have also drilled 2 small pieces of nickel-silver strip that will form the brackets to attach the car bodies to the chassis's. The bolts will be invisible once vestibule connectors are added to the adjacent coaches in what will be a fixed rake. Strips drilled out and formed to an L shape. And here with captive nuts soldered on and tested with the bolts screwed in. They are nice and free moving when tightened and loosened. Next stage will be attaching these at the right height on the chassis ends. Cheers Stu

Yes, it would've been an easier route. The Dapol sets are visually much better. The cost of a 5 car with full sound would be about 2.5x my approach. Plus - detailing and upgrading an old Poole model is more satisfying - if I'm successful..... The wheel base on the TM-07 is better than the Farish attemp to my eye. The ride height will be sorted via the captive nut placement and a retainer in the nose cones: I've glued in a 0.6mm strip to each inner side of both cars. The TM-07 in 15.75mm wide and the inner body walls measured 17.05mm. This leaves about 0.1mm of side play. The Tomytec's come with a selection of bogie sides and end attachments for the couplings etc.. I assume these are to fit their various models. I messed with these plug in sections on this sprue: When attached to either end of the chassis it is extends to 112mm which is the length i need for fitting to the bodies. I just need to see how this affects the bogie positioning with respect to swing near the nose cone rear. Cheers Stu

Today I'm starting on creating/refurbishing a Poole Farish HST set. The motor end is a 3 pole growler with poor slow running. This will be a 5 car blue/grey set with 2 powered cars and converted to DCC using Zimo chips. I would like to have sound at both ends too. That will be expensive but great if i can achieve it. Power wil be provided by the excellent Tomytec TM-07R chassis as here: On the plus side, these are very shallow with lots of head space for speakers and are an easy conversion to DCC. They are also very smooth running. These were obtained from a retailer in Japan. They are cheap (under £20 each) and took just five days to arrive in the UK from ordering. Here's a comparison to a 101 car to demonstrate how low the weights, motor and drives sit: First job is to add plastic strip to the sides to achieve a snug fit. Then i need to add plastic to the ends so they can be secured into the Farish bodies. The vestibule end will have a captive nut to secure all in place. Cheers Stu

Scarborough had 9 in the 70s, Bridlington had around 6 or 7 and Hull (although not strictly coastal but providing direct access to coastal services and maritime routes) still has 7. Cheers Stu

More aspects of the layout in progress: These are the low relief station buildings that need some final detailing and fixing in position. This is a view from the parcel depot loading bay. The arches will continue across to the corner of the two storey building here and to the right will be the parcels point. A canopy/train shed will eventually cover this area. The above area shows the slope up to the parcel dock and the other end of the arches. Below these, at street level is a BR Stores area under the main station platforms. A 108 DMU can be glimpsed through the arches standing in platform 7. Here's a view back across the parcel loading bay turning area. There will a a smattering of mechanical horses in this area busy delivering parcels. The arches are just layers of 1 and 2mm card overlaid with brick papers. Cheers Stu

Hi, Here's the latest attempt to recreate the railways of my youth. A Yorkshire coastal terminus depicting summer workings on British Rail's Eastern region. It's N gauge dcc. First up a 37 arrives on ECS for a Transpennine to Liverpool. Then the Class 40 booked on the working shunts from the holding point to platform 2. A prompt departure - English Electric whistling... Then over the swing-bridge and into the suburbs: Cheers Stu

My favourite is a technique used by vehicle modellers whereby an enamel base coat of varying shades of rust is panted on. Once dry, dab on pva glue in the areas required to be rusted. Allowcto dry then paint on the finish coat (bauxite or grey) in enamel. Allow to dry then rub over the paintwork with a wetted cotton bud. The top coat lifts off with the pva leaving realistic rust spots. You can then use dirty acrylic washes of light grey, earthy brown and dark greys wiping off once nearly dry with a damp sponge. I always use a reference image and remember many were spot repaired with plates overlaid and patch painted regularly. Cheers Stu

Hi, Made an enquiry via email to Nick at N Brass Locos for some items and received a prompt response. Communication was great and payment was very easy. Excellent service from a satisfied customer. Please support small suppliers whenever possible. Cheers Stu

Places like Worsley Works supply really high quality etches for DMU's and coaching stock. Existing 57' and 64' stock can be hacked to make up into types the main manufacturers don't supply. There are also vinyl overlays for most coaching types from the diesel loco hauled era. The current significant gap is a Peak type 4 diesel; although Langley still do a white metal shell for this class.

Depends how you write the date i suppose. Good excuse not to have to listen to that Swedish Eurovision nonsense though!

Scratchbuild? I've used filed down plastic sprue for jumper ends and sockets, and fine wire for cables. Vac pipes are widely available and easy adapted to high or low seated on the beam depending on which prototype you copy.

One thing that i believe is unique to 3rd rail (not sure about overhead) is the 'spider' box between the running rails at block joints. I believe the official name is an impedence bond. They allow the negative return current to flow but not the signal current in tcb areas. But its been a while since i worked on electrified lines. Cheers Stu

Hi Simon, I start with prepping sides, ends and roof in turn. Depending on livery (masking issues) add door bangs and hinges. Sand everything with a fine 1200 grit. The side/end/roof joins will need some gentle fettling but remember filler and sanding back is always an option if you go too far. Masking and painting is an straightforward process with these. I always build with the sides, ends and roof welded up with partions in place and then the floor bolted on which holds interior seating sections in place. Cheers Stu

Thank you! The only half decent image i have is a recent one with plenty of weed growths covering the view. Cheers Stu

Hi, Final detailing on the HAT (minus weed growths) includes vents on the roof and walkway lighting with conduits which in 2mm scale is darn fiddly! I'll make a start on the bridge control tower now. Cheers Stu

Hi and a happy new year. The HAT is complete bar plant life. Here it is sat approximately where it will finally sit. Most measures and details have had to be guessed due to a lack of images around 1979 showing details from all angles. The large end doors have been added as a guess. Colour scheme at the time was either filthy white or mucky cream. I'm hoping this area will be transformed once greenery is added. Cheers Stu

Where i was based in the 80s/90s a standard retirement gift for a time-served footplate man was a cacophony of dets going off as they brought their last working out of a yard. Great times Cheers Stu

Hi, The surfaces of the 5 bridges spanning the Ouse are pretty much done: The land forming of the river banks is also ready for some foilage etc.. Next will be the control tower and HAT buildings. Merry Christmas everyone Cheers Stu

Hi, The bridge sides are painted, weathered and fixed in place. The above shows a Brush Type 4 leading some Mk1s into Selby - probably a SO Bridlington to Wakefield summer holidaymaker return. The decking has also been weathered. I'm pleased with the use of real wood here as it adds good texture. These are the two bridges that span Ousegate which will pass under here on 4 different levels including the pavements. The section between the rails simulates the riveted metal bridge sections. A job still to do is detailing the other joining sections between bridges - hence the white bits. I've also built and fitted the footpath underpass at the other end of the section. Keen observers will see the puddles in the underpass... Just above and to the reader's left will stand the hydrostatic actuating tower. The foundations are in place. Here's a wider view of where i am at the moment. I've also made a start on the rotating pivot mechanism which sits under the high point of the swing section. Cheers Stu

Hi, Good progress continues! I've completed applying the ribs on both sides of all 4 bridge sides. The side land profiles have been added to board 1 (swing bridge) and a start has been made on the river bank foundations. I also needed to complete the swing bridge section counter-weight which hangs just above the river bank. This is a simple styrene box. To attempt to create a bit of realistic clatter over the bridge, some thin scrap copper sheet was laid inside with a few small ball bearings. I'm hoping these will vibrate a bit as trains run over a rail joint above. Nothing lost if it doesn't work as I'm thinking of using a metal jar lid with ball bearings inside to represent part of the pivot mechanism - this might work too! Posed bridge side with counter-weight fixed underneath. Side view. There is a footway underpass to go in behind the counter-weight. Inside the counter-weight with copper and metal balls for a rattle effect. Cheers Stu

Now passed on Thanks

No hijacking! The more info the better. I may eventually model the Barlby district with goods loops and the animal feed mill would be a spectacular model! Thanks for your assistance. Cheers Stu