Chubber

My font re-formatting, and I believe the above is nearer to the ethos needed. Namely decide Height to rail top Distance from 'front' An agreed rail profile for the 'joiny' bits An agreed loading gauge No legs A red electricity wire at each end A black electricity wire at each end If you want 'deep valleys', join the 'Deep Valley' Society. If you want to run pantograph-powered 7mm NG with sound, whistles and bells, or circus trains with giraffes poking their heads out, join the relevant society. If you want to have a 'very first try' at something new with 'yer Smokey Joe, get onboard, Andy and his chums will help and assist, I'm sure. Doug

Thinking....why legs? Given the number of venues that now cater for table-top sales, craft shows, cake and things shows," lotsa 'fings on table shows" etc etc, why not do as YMR did at Cran Brae in 2010 and build individual modules that rest on a common series of tables, the only defining dimensions being the height of the principal rail above the table top and a max/min distance from the 'front' of the face side. K.I.S.S., if someone wants to bring a 3ft long by 21" wide by 27 1/2" deep 'board' along, that's fine as long as it has one straight through route say 10" from the front and say 4" to the top of the rail. Define the same values for a double track module and stick 'em all at one end of the line, provide some 'corners' Robert is your mother's brother, n'est-ce-pas? D.C./D.C.C.? Who cares? Stick a chocolate block on leads at each end of your empire and let the techies sort out the red electricity and the black electricity, they love doing it... You don't even have to bring a locomotive or stock......or have I just said something rude.....? I love the idea, a chance to show off a Pasty mine or a Thrupple-nut factory, or maybe just a landscaped tunnel the whole length of the module, or, or......Nurse, quickly, one of my green pills.... Chubber the Simpleton Forgive me if this has already been said, I confess I became bored with spurious arguments about page 6....it's supposed to be fun.

Yup, it's the Small Ermine moth. The White Ermine is bigger and fatter, with a fluffy plain white bolero. You might find it's chums nearby as it is a communal moff. Doug

The top one is a Garden Tiger Moth, you might find the kapterpillas on your strwberries, very hairy! The other could be one of several, I'll have to look in my books... Bsy, bacsn (Winnie the Pooh did text speak decades ago...) Doug

Have I posted this one I took in Florida in 2011.... I mean, always consult an expert!

To add to PP's excellent work, just to prove there is more than one way to skin a cat.... https://www.model-railways-live.co.uk/Articles/274/Painting_Dapol_Figures_by_Doug_Dickson/ I hope this helps, too. Doug

....then this will give them kittens! The blade is a single edged razor-blade, the thicker 'spine' merely pulls off to give a nice flat blade, mounted as shown. The hardest part is shaping the handle, all the rest came from the 'extra spare bits' tray at Ikea apart from the strip of aluminium channel which I found in a skip together with the off-cut of MDF. I counter-bored the screw heads to let it all lie flat, the perspex is perfect, and the bit of post-it notepaper is changed regularly as that enables the blade to go right through the balsa, card or plastic strip without leaving a tiny whisker of material still joined to the stock. In practice the various angle guides are held quite adequately by blue tack and angles are easily reproduced. Note the adjustable plastic 'stop' in Picture 2, fixed were needed by a captive nut, filed to slide in the channel strip, a scrap from a draught exluder. Hope it inspires someone, Doug

Did I show you this one? It's an earth pin from a UK 3-pin plug cut with a fine saw blade so as to hold a scalpel or snap-off knife blade....So? I use it to make precise, constant depth cuts, for example in foam board to make neat overlaps, to cut rebates in the edge of 2mm grey board, and it will even follow a moderately curved card template. Make sure the screw head is nice and smooth so that it doesn't 'snag' the guide rule etc. Doug

Further to my last, the pipes I referred to were delivered, as I said, in a triangular stack, on a long pallet sepated by shaped wooden spacers. I think there were about 6 on the bottom layer going up to 3 or 4 across. No straw as I recall but as a child I do remember glazed sanitary ware pipes padded with straw, in a deep glossy brown. My stepfather was in the Royal Engineers and latterly a Clerk of Works so I used to see a deal of building and ground works. I think the colour is good, those remaining in the ground were black, with a complete absence of paint. Doug

Hullo! Back in the dim and distant past I was involved in some work involving the replacement of drains in a farm in Devon, the replacements being genuine cast iron, and I recall they were a deep orange red rust colour. They arrived strapped down in a triangle shaped pile on a flat bed lorry, stacked alternately fat end to thin end. They were jointed using some packing and poured lead! It was part of a restoration job partly sponsored by the County Council. [For what it's worth...] Doug

Poop-Poop! Doug

Philsandy, There is a third alternative I'd consider, kit bash a Scalescenes small terraced house kit to include a shop front and build it as LR? Doug

Here is my Wallingford shed in 4mm/1ft during construction in card, paper and balsa wood, there is a full description here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51015-an-engine-shed-for-a-gwr-branch-line/page-2 making and hanging the opening doors etc Doug

Thank you, Peter, from a man of your diameter calibre [ ] I take that as a great compliment. I shall eventually fit an interior when/if ever I get round to a little green or cream and green diorama instead of a light-stone/dark-stone one! Sante Doug

I hesitate to include my card [kit] Isfield signal box here amongst this high-end thread, but feel that ABM's kits deserve a little exposure, they are printed and die-cut from comparatively thin card and make up into attractive models. If you are into Southern and LBSCR do take a look. http://abmrailcraft.weebly.com/ Doug

Well, that's RM Web for you. Years I've been burning electrons here for years and never stumbled into the Bacup triangle. Glad to have fallen in now, full of admiration and appreciation. A splendid way to spend a wet, grey Autumn day! Doug [Edidet for splling mistkakes]

Good luck on Saturday, Woody! D

Have a look at my GWR engine shed fot Bears End, I have included a sketch that shows using a razor blade to trim corners. Burred over the join becomes invisible, just be sure that you trim along a straight line and align each wall sheet accurately with the bottom edge of each wall. Isn't likely that the corners will be covered by a quoin strip in stone or blue engineers brick? Before about 1910 the corners were usually bull nosed, afterwards square. In all truth, the man who says 'your 1 mm high bricks don't join accurately at the corners...' is probably suffering from advanced Rivettocounteritis and needs to get a life. Good luck, Doug

I think there is just about enough 'brown', but perhaps a smidgin' more 'oily looking' low down. Hi, John, nice spread in September's RM, by the way. Doug

Last week in Spain/SW France Doug

Luffly work, the subtle weathering around the hopper woodwork is masterful, as always. Some questions, if you wouldn't mind What are the particular GWR colours you are using, how do you achieve the rivet effect on the tank, how big is the model, I'm guessing about 1 ft high, and how do you get the window details so crisply finished? Doug Edited to ask 'do you have a patented jig for stair construction?' D

Allan, how did you make the curved top window frames in the 'O' gauge Railway Hotel picture in post 139, please? Doug

I have explained my methods in post 77. It works for Metcalfe models too. [Ah! But be I a gert lunamery?] Doug

Very lovely, please could you give us an 'Ow-I-diddit' for those hotel windows, please? Doug

This 'G' scale interior quality, don't try and kid us it's 'OO' ! VG Star... Doug