hayfield

Just for a change from track I was asked some questions about my printer about how big a model could be built on it, and I remembered Martin showing us we could print longer items (providing they are not too wide) by printing them on the angle, as we have appx 170mm printable bed, a 183mm long model (building) fitted on the diagonal. As well as the file for the model I asked for a smaller test piece file The building file would take over 13 hours to print, where as the test piece quoted 1h 39 min and use 16g of filament. Not really knowing what I was doing, the first issue was the drawing was on its back and as there were protrusions on the back of unequal length I thought it would struggle to hold itself up, so I turned the plan through 90 degrees on to its base. I also decided to use the jig printing settings as it was quicker and uses less filament? Well this is half through and I was pleases with the results so far, but would the filament above the door and windows sag? As you can see there was no need to worry, 2h 9 mins later and an amazing result, especially as I really just guessed what to do (I got away with this one) What a clever bit of design I think I might have a look at some easy to use design software, was it RS components Martin suggested ?

There have been a few comments about the printers both being expensive and what do you do with them once you have built your track Firstly with the FDM printer costing less than a top quality loco, they are hardly expensive. Secondly with the turnout bases and chairs costing under £1 and £2 to £3 for rail the saving against finescale turnouts either RTR of kit/scratch built the printers are self funding on modest layouts, They will be even cheaper if you join up/share with friend(s) I was asked by a contact if my printer with a printing bed of 180mm square could print a building 183mm long, well it does if printed diagonally. I asked if he could send me a small section to do a test print Well this is the result, took 2 hours to print and cost about 40p to print. Its size is roughly 90mm x 50mm The 183mm building would take 13 hours to build and cost about 3.50 The answer to the questions is whole new modelling method opens up

Rich Firstly British Finescale have been using resin printing for quite some time with no ill effect. Modelu uses 3D printing and I have had unpainted prints for quite a few years (8+?) I have test print of a filing jig(FDM) which shows no ill effects after 2 years still unpainted I have both FDM timbers and resin chairs unpainted for nearly 2 years I have unpainted Modelu chairs and figures for up to 5 years with no ill affect I have an un painted British Finescale kit 1+ years, (been in business for 12+ years) Then I have resin made kits (not 3D) for many years with no ill affects 20 years ago people were saying the same about plastic timber and chair construction, degradation, shrinkage etc nothing has happened But when Peco flexi track is left outside in sun and all weathers, there have been reports of degradation Firstly we are using UV curing material in resin as well as filament for timbers both of which should be protected more when painted Secondly longevity of track, quite often I read that layouts have their track replaced on their layouts I know of 1 P4 layout having to have the chipboard frames replaced, other P4 layouts where the rivets rust and fail Then of course industry use 3D printing ever more Something I am not thinking about but at worse I assume it will be the resin rather than FDM which may be the weakest, just replace the chairs as they plug in 20 years ago I listened to those who warned about plastic degrading or not being strong enough at certain pressure points, if anything plastic performs better than the other methods Personally I think I am late into this modelling process which has and is being proven to be stable. Perhaps you should ask the likes of Modelu and British Finescale about their thoughts on this subject as both have far more experience in these areas. For the the opportunities far outweigh the risks.

I sent a large letter to a friend on Monday 1st class, he received it on Friday, though a small packet sent recorded the same day arrived Wednesday, I would assume anything posted next week may not arrive until the following week, but then most will not have time for modelling over the Christmas period A few years back we expected mail order to take 2 weeks to arrive, now we have Amazon delivering the next day, or do they ? Well most for most items, but I have had to wait for four items lately, the quickest being 4 days the longest 4 weeks and yes I am a Prime customer

The maths are really stacked up in favor of 3D printed track. Probably about £1 will cover track bases from FDM printing and resin chairs A full C&L kit is about £100 now and £50 for a basic kit where you have to prefabricate the switch and common crossings British Finescale are excellent value as they are prefabricated and cost £30ish A pack of copperclad will now set you back £33 Plastic timbers between £5 & £10 Plastic chairs between £25 & £50 Pre formed switch rails £24 Pre formed Common crossings £22 Pre formed vees £14 Rail costs are the same for all methods RTR finescale turnouts start from £40 Perhaps the comparison between professionally milled and formed components is a bit unfair as is the comparison with full kits from C&L. But as you say excluding rail a few turnouts will cover the cost of printers As for making the switch rails and common crossings, I have 3 society jigs each costing £40. The switch rail jig is not very easy to use I also have a commercially available 1-6 Vee & switch rail filing jig, Its £50+ for 1 angle though it accepts code 75 to 100 flatbottom or bullhead rails. The switch rail only files the rear of the switch rail The resin printers are now under £100, FDM printers start from £150 ish. But this is the major cost upfront and done. Once you have finished track building the printers can be used for other projects As for the cost of a turnout, 50p for a resin base and the same for resin chairs, best of all these can be bespoke in design in angle and geometry 4 filing jigs will be about £5 and reusable if you use the same sizes/angles. Best of all building turnouts requires a minimum of skills, cutting, filing and bending. and the only soldering is mostly dropper wires. There is a learning curve in learning how to use the machines, but after track building a whole new era of model making opens up Of find a friend who is into 3D printing, which is a growing pastime of hidden printers, more that you would expect

I have just spent a few minutes in adding tape to my existing switch rail jigs Please note the rails have been magnified many times and all blemishes therefore will be magnified The back of the jig is nice and square only taking a minute or so The inside of the switch rail, as the rail is held at two angles the inside part of the foot will be filed to a slight extent Looking down on the top of the rail shows nice and even tapers This is the foot of the rail. the upper side is the back of the rail which tapers The lower part is the foot with no taper Left is the left hand inside switch filing jig (angled for ease of filing on the bench), right is the rear switch filing jig This switch rail was filed up in a minute or so and much easier than other methods I have used, they are multi use so can be used quite a few times and at about just over £1 in filament each are a sound investment, especially as premade machined switch rails cost £24 a pair, or society jigs cost £40 (will do A,B,C & D sizes) and another commercial jig is £50+ (switch and crossing jig)

I will give the tape modification a test tomorrow and if I get time I will print a right hand side jig altered to 20 degrees and compare them Glad it was not all of my own fault 😀

I had the rails 20mm from the end, I either had not filed the back enough and or not carefully located the end of the switch rail in the jig (s) I appreciate we have to get it right, but it was the first trial of a new method, the result in my opinion is probably far better than the majority of hand built switch blades I have seen. When you consider how much time was spent on filing and the ease in making them, its testament to the quality of design. A bit of practice will make even better ones, and not a £40 jig in sight

Martin As usual thanks for tidying up my explanation. As I said it was a first attempt and far better to anything I made using the society jigs, practice will produce even better examples What this post does not convey is the ease of making them against other methods

S started tp print the left hand switch rail inner jig The jig finished, out together and shows how it clamps to the desk The jig in action and rail easily and quickly filed You can both see how the jig attaches to the bench and the affect of filing the rail angled in the jig A cruel photographically poor close up of the filed rail, I may have either not filed the back of the rail fully or had the rail too close to the right end (20mm) as I have slightly filed the foot Still a result most would be very happy with, done very easily and quickly. A simple but genius design by Martin, plus all for about £1 a jig (3 needed) and best of all reusable Martin, thanks for an early Christmas present

This is a jig to file the inside of a switch rail (left hand), its designed to file the head of the rail but not the foot. As you can see its designed to be clamped to a work bench or workmate. I prefer using a bench vice and with the jig being vertical the top is at an angle, which is not an issue The jig is at an angle but the photo is distorting it. As you can see the rail slides through at an angle to the top face, protecting the foot but exposing the head Edit The backs of the switch rail have previously been filed in a Switch rail back jig as shown 14/11/23 page 3 second post I now need to print a right hand jig to complete the trio Jig in my bench vice, the left hand end you can see the head has been filed leaving the foot intact Sorry its not as clear as it could be, as you can see the tip has been filed at an angle, this first attempt has had the side of the foot filed, the bottom is just under full width. The magnification of the rail exaggerates the affect. Either I have not filed the back enough or the rail needs to stop a bit (3 or 4 mm) further back. But as a first attempt goes, which took no time at all to do, its a fantastic result. One which the average modeler would be very happy to produce, and for the perfectionist a great start

My big fingers

Off topic a bit Resin printer being set up, this will provide the chairs to go into the plastic track and turnout bases

Another useful item on the printer which is also very useful to non plug track builders Part two of 3 jigs to easily and quickly form switch rails. The first jig was for switch rail backs, this second one is for the front of the left hand switch rail. This is a very clever design which maintains the foot of the rail but allows the head to be correctly formed

Thanks, on my to do/buy/obtain list is a large jar for this purpose. I have been warned

Another rail filing jig being printed and in my opinion the best/most useful in the range This is an A switch front left side, which easily allows the user to form the inside part of the left hand switch rail. Takes 5.75 hours to print and only costs about a £ in filament, the bonus is its reusable

Perfect check list/ introduction / instructions to resin printing Thank you

Keith Perhaps a greenhouse seed tray heat map might help, they are cheap to both buy and run. But this time of year the garage is not the best of environments for resin printing

Phase 2 of 3D track building about to commence The printer is now unpacked and the basic set up has been completed, a couple of things to do and get before I start printing. But thankfully I have been supplied with a test file to get me going by Martin, then its simply learn how the print process works Then understand better how to make the print files, unlike the FDM printing the print time is only half an hour or so, but it needs both rigorous cleaning and then fixing under UV light

I thought I set it up via Facebook, but in the past they have sent emails, then just stopped sending them. How do they expect people to take part in them when they don't tell anyone ?

Chas You are spot on, you can save time listing by being both organized and reusing previous selling templates or saved templates. Also don't be greedy both with prices or numbers of items being sold as packing takes up time. Best of all recycling unwanted items both helps others out and generates funds. Little and often may be better all round

I went to the Post office on Monday at our local CooP, my wife had been in the shop earlier and stated I would be in there for hours as there was a large queue. Well there was a large queue and only 2 serving probably 6 others in front of me, thankfully there was no one with lots of parcels or banking large sums. In and out within 10 mins, I have waited very much longer with fewer people in front of me, luck of the draw

I was out and missed it and had no notifications from Octopus

Tofufi I tried the service during lockdown, I went into the Post Office and was told I had to take it myself to the sorting office, I went the 5 miles to the sorting office only to find the part which accepts parcels was closed. I then asked several Royal Mail staff what I could do and none of them were interested in giving me any information. In short 10 wasted miles of travelling and the good part of a morning wasted in repackaging and going back to the Post Office In short the post Office is a five minute walk away, they decide which weight category and service required according to the value (I always use first class). No customers will face a postage penalty owing to my mistakes on size and weight I can understand the attraction of buying direct with the Royal Mail and I may try it again for high value items, but I clearly state I charge for post and packing and try and post within 24 hours/ next working day of payment. Quality of service over cheapness

Chas Whilst I only sell via auction (no other methods offers etc) and list for 7 days (much the same as most private sellers) I have with 1 exception received 80% discount on every sale, the one I did not get discounted rates, was where I let an item automatically relist. My fault for not following the rules. I now only list on discount weekends, which seems about every other weekend. I am not a big seller just reducing my collection by selling a few items a month. I usually only sell model railway items so had no issues, but recently sold 2 very old cameras (my daughters farther in law's items) which also got the discount. In my experience very few restrictions.