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hayfield

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Blog Entries posted by hayfield

  1. hayfield
    All I seem to do is add a bit more filler and sand it.
     

     
    This evening I sanded those parts I filled last night.Pity I had not read the other threads first, however this kit had been hacked about a bit and I might have ruined the footplate had I tried to solder it up on its own. Its not a 100% square, the photos make it worse though
     

     
    Every time I look at the loco I find missing parts, for some reason a lump of the footplate has been sawn off, back with the Milliput.
     
    Also you can see the state of the cylinders is a bit of a problem, as they have been hacked about, I will have to think what to do with them.
     
    I will now read the info I recieved this morning.
     
    I also recieved a Lima Prairie today in the post. It was advertised as a K's kit, the photo was not that good so I took a gamble. I emailed the seller with the problem and he has already sent my money back and will pay for the return postage, can't ask for a better service than that. Pity it stated that it had Romfords as my 44xx has old K's mk2 wheels
  2. hayfield
    Not much done tonight, other than 3 out of the 4 splashers fitted, filler in the roof joins and firebox side. Also I decided to add a bit more filler to the rebuilt splasher to get a smother finish, before that I used a round grinding stone on the mini drill to shape the rear of it.
     

  3. hayfield
    Not too much done tonight (had to make some jam) The splasher has been filed back, just need to grind the rear back with a mini drill to clear the wheels. Rear step units fitted (nice new castings) along with the cab roof, buffer beam, dome and drivers seat.
     
    There is a dent in the side if the fire box that I have just noticed, it needs pushing out a bit and the point of the dent filled. The hand rail nob holes have been filled ans sanded. Also found the tender bufferbeam, so only a tank vent and 2 buffers missing.
     
    Happy with progress to date
  4. hayfield
    For the past 2 weeks I have been building turnouts for others, I think it was 5 00 and 3 EM ones and repaired a 3 way. So I fancied a change.
     
    A friend gave me a K's GNR Atlantic kit. It had been built and then dismantled. Well on monday once I had finished and posted everything I decided to have a go at it. The motor turned the wheels but the cylinders had been badly built and they faced a bit inwards so the crossheads rubbed against the drivers. After one of the piston rods snapped I decided to dismantle the cylinders and rebuild them once I had new crossheads.
     
    I decided to get on and rebuild the body. As some of the parts were still stuck together I tried to fit them together, as the fit was not to good I got out my old saucepan and dunked the parts into boiling water. Now they were all seperate. The footplate shoud have been in two parts however the larger part had been broken. After a little fettling I got all glued in place except where the footplate had broken in 2 which I soldered back together.
     

     
    Last night all I had time to do was to repair one of the splashers with Milliput, as it had been reduced in size!!. To night I filed it to shape and found that the bottom and other end also had been reduced, so I have built it up and will file to shape tomorrow. I also filled in the hand rail holes which were too big and did a bit of gap filling where the footplate had broken.
     
    The tender needs a bit more dismanlting, so the pan will come out again in a bit.
     
    I am working in the dark as the kit has no instructions, and I cannot see that any of the mags have done a plan. Still that half the fun.
     
    A Bullied coach plan book came in the post this morning that I won on Ebay. The cost of posting it was more than I paid for it including postage, I might send the guy the difference as I feel a bit guilty.
  5. hayfield
    I have started to build up the north lights
     

     
    A backing piece of 15 thou, then 2mm strips to build up the window bar detail. I then cut out the window blanks then added 1mm bars on top of the 2mm bars. Hopefully once the bars are painted they will look a bit thinner. Only 40 more to make.
     
     

     
    I have champhered the tops of the lower pelmet, on the picture the added depth this detail makes is not as noticeable as it is in the flesh. I now need to saw the brick courses in.
  6. hayfield
    Not much has happened recently, like everyone else work and social life has got in the way.
     

     
    The shell is now stiff enough for me to finalise the position, I have also now worked out the track positions.
     
    I was hoping to be able to cut out the inspection pits today but have been distracted and it is too dark outside to cut them out.
     
    Still I am now in a position to work on which ever part of the layout takes my fancy.
     
    I can carry on with the shed building, with either continueing the slates, make the northlights/ smoke jacks or detail the building sides.
     
    Or build the 3 remaining turnouts which are outstanding. Or cut out the inspection pits and start track laying.
     
    Now to clear up the work bench after a spot of trach building for someone else
  7. hayfield
    The walls looked a bit stark, so I decided to see if a plynth at the bottom of the walls would look better. It breaks up the wall quite well (looks better in real life where depth is more apparent), I will bevel the tops once the solvent fully drys.

    Window sills have been added , and will also be beveled. Windows are tacked in place (well I hope they are).
     
    Have added a horizontal barge board under the capping, as it looks better being there rather than a bare wall. I think I will put this on the front wall under the capping for the same reason.
     

     
    Now to carry on with the roof's and I hust find my microstrip so I can start the north lights.
  8. hayfield
    As the roof grows the structure stiffens up (thankfully)I have enough roof pannels to complete 3 out of the 5 tripple spans. I have also started the capping on both the roof tops and brickwork over the entrances. I will carry on with the foofs until I use up the pannels. I will then order some more along woth some 1mm microstrip to make the north lights with.
     
    I will fit again the barge boards to hide the join where the roof meets the walls. Before fitting the downpipes I will see if a brick pelmet looks any good at the bottom of the walls. I will need to build the chimneys/ smoke jacks. I will try the ones in the kit to see what they look like
     
    I will also try and contact Wills to see if they will sell me some extra sprues for the capping and the smoke jacks if they have the look I am after, I have the capping they sell with the chimney/roof packs and will see if it matches first.
     

     
    I am still wondering about the inspection pits, I guess in the end I will put them in but it will be a pain cutting through the 9mm MDF. I will use brick sheets at each entrance for the floor covering, however as it will be dark inside the shed I will use plain plasticard further in then blend the two together.
  9. hayfield
    A bit more progress on the roof.
     

     
    The first 2 bay roof is installed and this part of the shed is becomeing quite ridgid. I have started fitting both roof and wall cappings. It look like I am going to see if Wills will sell me some extra roof sprues as I will need some more roof capping and if I use them the smoke jacks. I will also need 2 more packs of slate roofing. Still quite pleased with progress so far.
  10. hayfield
    Over the past few weeks work and other things have got in the way of progress. The first turnout is built and tested, this was the easy one as it is a straight B6, nice and simple.
     
    Over the past couple of nights I have worked our where each wall meets the sides and fixed them together. Now on to the roofs.
     

     
    I have started at the rear first with the 2 single spans. The rear gentler slope is easy but it is the steeper one with the north lights I need to work out. I decided to make them in 3 sections, top and bottom in full length and the middle the width required. these are all glued in and waiting for the solvent to harden, so I can file the tops flat to fit the capping.
     
    I thought about makeing the roof a seperate lift off section, but decided to make the whole building lift off. Walls still need the bottom vallance fitting, window sills, windows etc. I an just trying out the different parts wall capping, bargeboards etc to see how they look and they are just lightly tacked in place.
     
    I have 2 tileing sheets which were stuck together to make a double span drying/hardening to start the next section, I will make a couple of the Wills smoke jacks to see how they look and have a go at the north light windows themselves.
     
    Now I know the exact size of the shed I can finalise the curves to the approach tracksEven though I extended the shed by 1 Bay, it seens to have shrunk about 3/4" from my initial estimates. I am still toying about whether to fit inspection pits inside or out.
     
    Hopefully I will be able to do some more tomorrow afternoon.
  11. hayfield
    Over the weekend I did some more work on the railcar

     
    I sprayed the body with satin varnish so I can now fit the windows. Also chopped the Hornby seated driver about and he fits nicely in the drivers seat.
     
    Wipers fitted to each of the 4 wheels, I think the gear set is 30-1 which is a bit fast on my H & M Clipper unit so will try it on a feed back unit once the layout is up and running. Roof will be fitted once the glazing has been completed and some people have been installed. W irons have been shortened and painted black
     

     
    This is the kit of parts (see earlier blog comment) and instructions from the No Nosense Kit (x MTK)of the Bristol Railbus. Each side has 2 bits, 2 ends, floor and air vents. Its part kit and part scratch built project. I doubt if I will use the floor as i prefer one made from copperclad. I might use the High Level Pacemaker Traction Pack for this one.
  12. hayfield
    Following a question I have shown my simple chassis arrangements. Its not going to please the rivet counters but then again I do not think they would use a MTK kit. The seats are old MTK ones for a DMU so are not quite correct.

     
    The main part of the chassis is a piece of PCB board,I then soldered 2 coach W irons to it. I made a motor mount from some brass sheet and added a DC10 motor with 30/1 Romford gears. I added 2 square bits of brassbetween the W irons for added stiffness. 8ba bolts soldered to bits of brass, which were then stuck to each end of the body. A hole is cut into the PCB board to allow the worm gear into the body and part of the motor, which fits flush with the floor, a High Level kit may keep all below deck but once the seats are in place nothing can be seen
     

     
    All I now need to fit are PB strips to act as wipers on the wheels, and cut the very botom part of the W irons off to hide them.

    For the Bristol Railcar I may use the High Level kits PaceMaker traction pack http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ The good part about these kits is all you have is 4 sides so you can fit what you want to it as its up to you what you do. The floor can even be 1 piece which is either stuck or soldered in place.
     
    Its nice to have something a bit different, and in fact could command a small diorama layout of its own. The diorama could be no more than 3' long and 6" to 9" wide, I could use 4 different railcars, 1 rail bus, a GWR and LMS push pull units. A bit bigger then 2 car DMu & EMU could be used.
     
    A good site is the Railcar Ass http://www.railcar.co.uk/.
  13. hayfield
    Re the J52, I put on the wrong size letters and decided to remove them, There was something wrong with the Humbrol paint from the can I used, and in takeing off the LNER transfers it affected the black paint. I gave the damaged parts a sand and have given the loco a respray of black from an older Humbrol spray can. If this does not work then I will have to strip it down and start again
     
    Anyway last night after having the problems with the J52 I decided to do a bit more with the Waggon und Maschinenbau rail bus.
     

     
    I cannot remember how long ago I started building it, last year I painted it Green (Malachite)and built up the roof. Last night I masked off the central band and painted it aluminium as I did with the roof (roof should be grey though)and painted the seats and internal body brown.
     
    Chassis needs pickups, body will be varnished so I can fit the glazing. Once its all running OK I will fix all the seats in place, glue on the roof and seal the joins. Must get back to the transfer company as I want a set of wiskers and numbers (I ordered them but some how my cheque was not cashed and the order not delt with).
     
    Have a MTK (No Nonsence kits now) Bristol Rail Bus to build, well its 2 sides and 2 ends. What year will I start it? well I only brought it last year.
  14. hayfield
    Been at the in laws this weekend and got the farther in law to letter half a dozen locos, unfortunatly I told him to put the wrong size LNER transfers on the loco.
     

     
    The body needs a bit of a clean up, (black paint would not set), if it cleans up OK then I will leave alone or I might try and life the transfers and put smaller ones on. If not it might be a repaint job. All the other locos were fine I just made a mistake on this one.
  15. hayfield
    As I said The loco has been sprayed black and have started to paint the cab, buffer beams etc. Going away to see the inlaws for a few days and hope to get the farther in law to help me letter this loco and a few others. Mad rush last night to finish off painting a couple of other locos and get my bits together.
  16. hayfield
    Over the weekend I finished building the loco, the most tedious job was to make the steps from brass sheet. I swapped the split pins for brass hand rail knobs. Fitted etched rear window grills and I fitted some whitemetal steam pipes.

     
     
    For the past few nights I have undercoated and sprayed the loco gloss black, I will now pick out the buffer beams and other items which need painting different colours and will number and letter the loco over the weekend, then a coat of satin varnish will tone the loco down.
  17. hayfield
    A second kit arrived yesterday so I could continue with the build. I have started to built the third bay.
     
    I have tried to load a photo but its not happenning, still nice to have the web back. Will post a photo once I find out what the problem is.
  18. hayfield
    I have started to rebuild a BEC LNER J52 I got off Ebay quite cheaply,the paint job was not very good. So a soak in Nitromores last night and a wash clean, all there was then to do was picking off the odd bit of paint and glue.
     
    Tonight I have stuck the two body sides/tops to the bunker casting, smoke box and footplate.
     

     
    I noticed that where the 2 body halves joined, the joins was not very good (the builder had put some filler on them). So I decided to do likewise and will leave the filler for 24 hours to set completely
     

     
    I am re-building this loco as a thank you for a friend who did me a good turn. I have 2 other of these. One I built 2 years ago from an unstarted kit, and have a body built by someone else (another Ebay item which no one was bidding on) neither of these show the same problems, either I forgot that I had to do a bit of filling or the castings were better.
     
    Also won another Wills 2 road engine shed off Ebay tonight (see layout blog) got it a couple of pounds cheaper than the Ebay shops and hopefully it will arrive quicker that the one I brought a couple of months ago as I had to wait nearly 2 weeks.
  19. hayfield
    View from the fiddle yard
     
    The track will be SMP flexi track and (C&L) copper clad built turnouts all in 00, I thought about making them from C&L plastic parts but I decided against this
  20. hayfield
    I am building a shelf layout in my workroom as a test bench for my locos, storage for them and to play trains. My main interests in the hoby is building whitemetal loco kits and building turnouts.
     
    The space I had available was 5' 3" long by 12" at one end and 18" at the other. Locos would enter the layout from the right from a fiddle yard (which would be hidden from view by a coaling plant) under a road bridge on one of 3 tracks. On the left hans side will be a 6 road engine shed and a head shunt for the coaling stage.
     
    I built the board and played around with various track plans, once set on a plan I built a mockup of the shed in card based on the Wills 2 road kit
     
    Once settled on the plan I started to build the walls
     
    Monday morning my local shop had some cork sheet in so I layed this last night and as I had built a second wall on Monday I could put the shed in place and double check the track plan
     
    The track plan need slight adjustment and I need to buy another shed kit to build the next bay.
  21. hayfield
    Latest loco on my workbench is a Keyser
     
    LNER J72
     
    Now in the garage after having a coat of apple green for each of the past 3 days. As per my entry on the last web I need to adjust the chassis as one of the spacers is stoping the motor sitting flat enough. So out with the slitting disc and reduce the size of it.
     
    The chassis is one I got off Ebay, I have had to swap motors and change a Comet gear box for a simple motor mount, so that the cab can be kept relatively clear of motors.
  22. hayfield
    I have had some time to do some modelling today, I finished off an EM faceing crossover and gave a K's J72 a final coat of LNER green then picked up the Wills 2 road enging shed I started building last week.
     

     
    This is where I finished last week with the 1st wall propped up against the mockup. Tonight I managed to build the second wall
     
    I have taken out the first two bays of the mockup just to see how the progress todate fits in with the temporary track plan. The plan is still OK but the point work will need adjusting as I have built the 1st shed wall 1 window bay extra.
     
    I need another shed kit to finish off the walls and several roof packs. I went into the loft and found some Wills packs. Wall sections with windows, plain bond brickwork and tiles, great I thought I can get on with the build without waiting for the extra kit to arrive. Wrong as the wall sections I have with windows are English bond not plain bond. Still it will give me time to add extra details and work on keeping the roof in the air where the interior of the shed will be open without walls.
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